soutie

I see that they are rated to 24A. Is this man enough for the purple live feed?

Got the two looms through their holes. Towbar loom to the left and main loom to the right. In the process of slowly matching wire colours. Still to put the grommet back in the hole to the right. It seems I have miss placed some double connectors so also need to get them.

I am putting my 110 CSW together and want to ask where do I connect the towbar wiring loom to the main loom. In the space up in the rear station wagon body or in the wheel well behind where the rubber divider goes? I will post pictures tomorrow when at the barn.

Thanks for the replies.

Due to me not taking photos prior to the strip down, I have come round to fit brake and indicator rear lights to my 110 in it's rebuild and am confused by their wiring length. I would have assumed that the indicators would have had longer wires due to them going at the bottom and the brake light short ones as going at the top. Have I got it the wrong way round. It is a 1989 110.

I have not used their high temp paint before but thought the link showed what you are looking to do. https://www.rustoleum.com/project-catalog/garage/how-to-paint-your-exhaust-pipe/

Thanks for the replies. It now makes sense seeing the photos.

I unfortunately did not take enough photos when I disassembled my land rover and can't make out from the parts diagram where these two parts go. The black one I think is the spacer that goes to the block with the link adjuster. But where does the silver one go. It is in the 200tdi power steering diagram but where do you bolt it to? The most logical place is where I thought the alternator bolted to.

Or purchase 2 cheap 5 litre garden sprayers. I have one with EP90 and the other with ATF. I have bent the sprayer tips to fit the filler holes and use synthetic corks with holes drilled in them to keep the sprayer tip clean. Much easier to fill as you pressurise the sprayer and then use the trigger to control how you fill the transfer box and gearbox. No more oil running down your arm as you attempt to fill the boxes.

Thanks

I used some secure fix tape from proper job. https://www.properjob.biz/shop/Aluminium-Foil-Tape-M8861

I used aluminum tape to seal the edges of mine.

With the help of a ratchet strap corners down and now test fitting a door. Note I have not tightened any of the roof bolts behind the windscreen.

Sigi_H thanks for the tip about the front screen clamps. Took them off the frame. Had undone half the bolts on the front half of the roof. A bit of wood to help align it and now have it where can live with it. Need a friend's help to squash the corners down to get these 2 bolts in, but that is a job for next week.

Steering column undone. Now to loosen all the roof bolts and see if I can make progress.

Spacers in place. Then removed. 3 on the left and 2 on the right.

Have a look at S&P 4X4 website as they appear to have them in their kit for fixings for the rear body.

Thanks for all the comments. I will look at taking the the spacers out on the bulkhead on the passengers side to see if that pull that side up. I put back in what I had taken out when stripping her down to the chassis. I will also not bolt everything up before test fitting the doors.

Thanks for all the replies. Hopefully I shall get back to it this weekend. Here you can see the overhang on the front with the gap between the windscreen and the roof on the passenger front side.

I had friends help lift the roof on yesterday. Then put in a bolt either side of the rear door and then lifted the front to put windscreen sealer on the front seal. Lowered it and then started from the back to find the front left has a 5mm gap when finishing up. The right hand side was fine.

How does one line up the 110 roof when refitting it? I put my roof on and then started at the back with the nuts and bolts working towards the front, however my left hand side overhands the screen by about 5mm. Should I undo all the bolts and start from the front two corners and then the rear two corners and then work my way from front and back to the middle? Or is there any other trick to this?

You will see the evolution of the bulkhead below from a rusted patch in the corner, welded up before galvanising, galvanised and then in high build primer.

The bulk head has had the rusted bits cut out and hot dip galvanised. The holes are there for screws to hold a bracket. You will see that the passenger side bit where the loom goes through is black as I had this taken out before I had the bulkhead galvanised and separately galvanised and painted. I spent the previous morning waxoiling the insides of the bulkhead before using seal sealer adhesive to stick them in. Thanks for the concern about the holes.

Thanks for the replies.

Just come to install my vents on the bulk head and noticed how the hinges lie on the left hand and right hand side is different. Is this normal?