soutie

I used a paint stripper called Power Strip off ebay. The trick to using it is to lightly scratch the powder coat before painting it on. Leave it for 5 minutes or more and when you see the bubbling use a wire brush to scrape it off. This removed powder coat off a mantec spare wheel carrier and some unknown make rock sliders. You however do need good chemical resistant gloves as it is nasty on the skin.

Thanks for the replies. I will post a photo over the weekend when I can get to her to show what I have.

Is there a part number for crush tubes for the rear suspension on a 1989 110? When I bolted the rear top mounts to my chassis that I had galvanised, using the torque figures as per the workshop manual it has bent the chassis. Not sure to live with it or put in crush tubes.

On my 1989 110 it is wired to go the tow socket for a caravan.

Not fall out the sky, but on its nose. A BA 787 nose gear recently collapsed when the pilot was testing the hydraulics prior to take off. The aircraft mechanic was to short to put the locking pin in so asked somebody else to do it and they put it in the wrong hole. Boeing did know this was a problem so had a solution to stop this happening which had not been retrofitted to the BA jet.

Simon thanks for the reply. As you can see below I stripped the heater down to it bare components to de-rust it and repaint it before reassembling it. In doing so I took the resistor off so I could de-rust where it was screwed to. Going through my parts box I found your resistor, hence asking the question.

I was about to resolder the resistor before refitting it to my heater which I have rebuilt. However I have the resistor that was sold by a forum member to speed up the fan. Should I resolder the original resistor and fit the new one? Or only fit the new one?

YRM sell the mounts. Now you just need a garage to weld them on for you. "Axle Conversion Coil to Leaf Sprung Rear Axle - YRM Metal Solutions" https://yrmit.co.uk/product/axle-conversion-coil-to-leaf-sprung-rear-axle-series-2-3/

Thanks Arjan. I have had a look and it is PRC7371P. Not sure what the difference is to PRC7371.

As per the title what is this switch called? It has fallen to pieces so looking to replace it and not sure what to look for.

It is an 8cm diameter. I did do a Google search and found none hence asking. I might have to bite the bullet and spend the £10.

As per the title, what is the alternative to using YQQ101240 rubber grommet for the driver side seat box at £10 a pop?

Sp4x4 do the kits.

I like the Atlantic Green. Can't wait for the doors to be painted now.

As per my post on the members forum. I have come to the conclusion when replacing my rear cross member it has shunted everything forward 5 to 6 mm. See how the roof overlaps the C pillar. Hence I left the B pillar alone. Sanded the striker spacer down so the door will fit. Just need to bend in the top rear of the door. This is with the seal back on so once I have bent the door I can live with it.

I like the D3. It is the D5 which is fugly.

As you say beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I think the rear of the new defender looks like the front of a BMC van going backwards. As for how many mushrooms The designer of the rear of the new disco 5 had? I like the box shape of the Genadier, G Wagon and old defender as it matches my child like drawings of a car. All straight lines.

This is one of the galvanised primers. https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/speciality-paints/quick-dry-galvanised-metal-prime I have not used it and used the Bullseye 1 2 3 for my galvanised door skins. skins. https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/paint-galvanised-metal/

Thanks for all the replies. I will get back to it on Friday so will report progress then.

Rubber removed and lock fitted. The issue seems to be the space for the door is too small. Big gap at the bottom front and none at the top. While at the back hardly any space at the bottom of the vertical and lots at the top. I had to take the spacer out of the door latch for it to close. Only thing I can think of is that when replacing the rear cross member it has shunted forward every thing. I wonder now if I can move the b pillar forward by a couple of mm to get the space needed? Any other suggestions?

The doors had new bottom frames welded in and I fitted new skins to them. Thanks for the advice on the rubbers. I had fitted me as without the seemed fine, but I wanted to check what difference they made and if I could still get the doors to close.

Left hand side latch part sticking out.

In advancing of painting my newly skinned doors I thought I better fit them to see if some fettling is required before painting. First off I noticed that I need to bend the top rear of both doors over. However what I can't get my head around is how to adjust them so the lower rear where the door lock is does not stick out. Has anybody got any tips?

What about using the Mohs scale of mineral hardness. Talc being the softest at 1 for the standard land rover diff and diamond for the toughest at 10. Thus Ultra Build diamond class.

Thanks for the replies. Once they have been welded I will post up pictures of what works for me.