soutie

The other stuff to use is tar remover. Just spray it on and then scrap off the softened residue. That way you do not need to use a heat gun.

Vulcan Bomber, did you get your overdrive and make a spacer? I am at the stage where I am looking for somebody to make one for me so was wondering who in the South West you would recommend? Peter

This is a website that I use for parts diagrams and then links to who sell the items at what price. It shows no Washer on the long bolt as per above. https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/engine/300tdi/alternator_53172

Uniformed, I am doing the same thing when rebuilding my land rover 110. I am replacing the door skins with galvanised skins as I do not want to be repeating the process in a couple of years time. Reasons for me is I can't fettle steel so will rely on aftermarket people for replacement skins. Now if I could afford stainless steel I would. As for the chassis, bulkhead, A, B & C pillars and sills they have all been galvanised. For the high tension steel bolts where I have not replaced with stainless bolts - and even where I have and have dissimilar metals I have coated the exposed one in duralac to hopefully slow the corrosion down.

Thanks. Appreciate the replies.

Does anybody know what the part number is of the angled bracket that connects the heater matrix enclosure to the blower? See point 2 from the manual.

In rebuilding my 1989 110 I have to replace the gasket MUC7506 which seems to have superseded gasket ANR6333. As these gaskets are in the range of £10 to £20 could I use a Gasket paper to make them up to save myself some money? I was thinking of using something like this. High temperature (250°c) gasket paper sheet - Phoenix PG-G CNAF graphited. It comes in various thicknesses - from 0.4mm to 3mm - which thickness should one use?

These are the pieces that I am talking about. My 1989 was a Turbo Diesel and had all of these pieces. I do not want to pay stupid money for the original items, so was looking to see if the foil foam insulation - which seems a like for like replacement is the way to go. I do not want to be sticking the insulation on the inside of the vehicle, as when if the gearbox etc. needs fixing I want to be able to take out the floor panels etc..

I am currently rebuilding my 1989 110 CSW and have removed the original Closed cell foam with a reflective foil on it one side when stripping her down. Which is better to replace this original insulation on the bulkhead and under the floors especially where the exhaust runs- The closed cell foam with foil on one side or the Butyl with foil on them? Sound deadening would be a plus - however keeping as much heat out as possible is what I am looking for. I already have the wright offroad mats that I will be refitting.

I cleaned up the damper and am happy that there is no pitting, so will reuse it. Thanks for all the comments.

Mike, when I had mine done I had to have the front outriggers replaced, the front dumb irons repaired and the rear cross member replaced. What however had made up my mind that I could have it dipped was the repair patch behind both sides of the gear box crossmember showed that the internal chassis was not in bad condition. Know what other repairs I had done, I thought I could trust the rest of the chassis. Attached a photo of the b pillars from today. I can't to my untrained eye see any distortion. Also photo from the bulkhead painting from today. This is the wet filler primer over the acid etch after twashing. The streak marks from the galvanising are still visible. Not sure if they will disappear once sanded. If not, they will add character to the vehicle

Not that I remember. I will take photos and post them tomorrow as I have not progressed to painting yet. House move and my son's sport on both Saturday and Sunday in the winter have got in the way.

I used Cardiff galvanisers. They picked up and delivered back to Somerset. They did not quibble and were very professional about the whole process. I phoned them and then emailed photo's of all the parts. They then gave me a rough idea of cost. I paid £370 for the chassis, bulkhead, gearbox cross member, sills and pillars and other parts back in 2012. http://www.cardiffgalvanizers.co.uk/ They have fleet of vehicles and this shows the area they cover. http://www.cardiffgalvanizers.co.uk/cardiff-galvanizers-fleet I have attached two photo's so that you can see the quality of what they did.

Mike, if I did replace it, how do you separate the damper from the pulley and then fit the new one. From my google search and looking at the workshop manual I can't find this mentioned.

Mike thanks for the reply. I have replaced the seal on the front cover for the crankshaft. The oil that is there in the photo was put there by me to protect the crank shaft from rust as the vehicle is stored in a barn. I will be removing it before I do the timing. Do you think that the damper rubber is okay?

In the process of rebuilding my 1989 110 I have come to retime the engine after fitting the reconditioned fuel pump. Looking at the crankshaft pulley the marked TDC as per photo below is out of line on compared to the crankshaft key. Stupid question here, I take it I use the Key as per the manual and ignore the pulley? Thus I should remark the pulley in line with the key and use that mark? Second question - the manual state inspect the crankshaft pulley damper before refitting. Are the two chunks out of the rubber material acceptable?

Most kits include the spacer.

Have a look at this link on Page 11 onwards. http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Military Workshop Manual South Africa Series Land Rover part 6.pdf

Link to the Dixon website https://dixonfabrication.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=87_89_111

Simple google search. The second one seems a better source of info. http://www.morrisminorforum.com https://www.morrisminorowners.co.uk/

As per the title. I am half way through a complete nuts and bolts strip down and rebuild of my 110 with 200 tdi. I want to find out who people recommend for checking the Turbo and repairing if necessary?

Here is the UK distributors website for planar. I have nothing to do with them and found this via a google search. It seems that they are more expensive than ebay, but carry a 2 year warranty and don't have import tax on them. https://www.planarheaters.co.uk/

Not sure if anybody has tried ZircoFlex Form? It would be interesting to see if it lives up to the spec below as a 300mm x 250mm sheet is £81.60 which is cheaper than the £250 for the genuine part which cracked and broke on the drop of a hat. http://www.zircotec.com/zircoflex-form/ http://www.fastfoxperformance.com/zircoflex-form/p15781 "It is now possible to create ultra-high performance, structural heatshields, thanks to Zircotec’s newest heatshield, ZircoFlex® FORM. This more rigid, stainless steel heatshield combines Zircotec’s proven ceramic coating protection together with the strength and ability to form structures such as heatshields, boxes and bulkheads. Thanks to its ability to solve multiple heat issues, including both radiant and conductive heat sources with gold and black surface treatments, ZircoFlex® FORM delivers a compelling mix of strength, weight, and structure with heat resistance. In addition to the heat benefits, initial testing suggests that FORM can also provide acoustic damping, ideal for both longer touring drivers and endurance racers. •Temperature reductions of up to 88% (when used as an offset heatshield) •Tested to 900°C (hot side temperature) •Core of embossed (type304) stainless steel sandwiched between two layers of Zircotec's proprietary ThermoHold® based ceramic thermal barrier material. •Product Thickness - 1.6mm (+/- 0.2mm) •Product Weight - 2.9kg/m² Ease of fitment line-side, with a thin aluminium-backed and ceramic foil that is easily cut and folded to shape, by hand or machine. The metal construction allows the use of mechanical fasteners"

From Paintman "LAND ROVER ATLANTIC GREEN LRC726. A traditional single part Synthetic Coach Enamel paint used during 1999 for the Defender 90, 110, 130 Heritage range of Land Rovers. Although Land Rover Atlantic Green LRC726 is normally a special order colour and would need a lead time of around 2 weeks for delivery, we are currently holding a small stock due to popular demand. Out of pure interest, we have a swatch of Atlantic Green sat on the last Grasmere Green Land Rover. Grasmere Green is a Micatallic colour whilst Atlantic is a flat coat, however, the shade is almost identical"

It is interesting to read that "For the ‘Mk 2’ LRV, Supacat have taken the rolling chassis and automotive systems from the Land Rover Discovery and adapted them for specialist military applications." Spec are "permanent 4WD with centre diff. lock Differentials Options including : Front and rear air locking Suspension and axles Front and rear fully independent double wishbone". I wonder what land rover could do with the Discovery rolling chassis if Supacat have done this?