soutie

The sockets are about 2cm across or .8 of an inch where they go into the ratchet head. The 19 mm socket there is an adaptor that makes it a 12.mm or 1/2 inch drive to take it. The model number of the set is HG01215 or IAN303402.

Went into Lidl and picked theirs up. Solid piece of kit. Will need to see how it lasts.

Talking about changing batteries on electric cars - have a read of this article on Nio battery swap system. The company uses pop up centres and swops the battery in 5 minutes.It even includes a story on a driver driving from Beijing to Shajing and back [about 2,800 miles] and swapped the battery 16 times! https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/features/eyes-china-next-level-customer-care/ Wonder when the Western car makers come up with this sort of infrastructure to support electric cars?

Here are some real life fitting instructions for your deep sump. Please take photo's and let us know how you get on. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1259386-gearvender-deep-sump-installation-tutorial-maximum-overdrive.html

This scared me as to the driver visibility until I realized that nobody would would get to drive it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/223068441222

Have a look at the specs here. https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-red-tool-cabinet/p/096485220320100 Brand: Workzone Colour: Red/Black Dimensions: 76 x 48 x 99cm approx. Material: Steel, EVA, ABS, TPR, Aluminium, Zinc Product Type: Tool Storage Weight: 53.7 kg approx. Central security lock 2 keys Interlocking for drawers: only one drawer can be opened at the same time Easy to move with 4 smooth running castors (2 swivel with brake castors, 2 fixed castors) 6 small ball bearing drawers, completely extendable with telescope rails (max. load 15kg approx. each) 1 large drawer (max. load 25kg approx.) 1 tray with 7 compartments (max. load 35kg approx.) Powder-coated cold-rolled steel finish Easy access tray Guarantee/Warranty 3 years

I see you are in Portugal, hence the request to a website. I have used Wright off Road in the past and have found them to be good. http://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/ http://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/product-category/land-rover/assorted-restoration-packs/

I used to have similar issues and it was caused by the rear loom running inside the chassis becoming chaffed and then shorting intermittently. It was driving me mad as some days the vehicle worked and then it did not. In the end I had to resort to an car election who discovered this and replaced the loom outside the chassis which solved the issue.

it is worth having a read of this. It is about the Jaguar Land Rover classic works and what they keep and replace on vehicles. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/classic/restoration-drama-inside-jaguar-land-rover-classic-works/

Have you remembered to clean out the high pressure filter? See below courtesy of Buckeye Triumphs write up on the J type over drive. Plus the picture from the GKN user manual. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD2/JOD2.htm

Western. Thanks. I will post pictures once fitted.

As per the title, what is this part and where does it bolt to? It is the silver painted part I have laying on the transfer box. Peter

David, on checking today Reb78 is correct. There is only an inch or so behind the overdrive before the chassis cross member on my 110. My preference would be a deeper sump. I also agree with Reb78 about a drain plug so that one does not need to take all bolts out to drain the oil.

Sorry - found one now. Also a photo of the maximum overdrive one installed. I was thinking of instead of the deep sump as per maximum overdrive. Just a spacer using the original cover plate, as per my very poor excel mock up.

Vulcan Bomber, I will take pictures and post them on Wednesday of the GKN unit. Peter

The other stuff to use is tar remover. Just spray it on and then scrap off the softened residue. That way you do not need to use a heat gun.

Vulcan Bomber, did you get your overdrive and make a spacer? I am at the stage where I am looking for somebody to make one for me so was wondering who in the South West you would recommend? Peter

This is a website that I use for parts diagrams and then links to who sell the items at what price. It shows no Washer on the long bolt as per above. https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/engine/300tdi/alternator_53172

Uniformed, I am doing the same thing when rebuilding my land rover 110. I am replacing the door skins with galvanised skins as I do not want to be repeating the process in a couple of years time. Reasons for me is I can't fettle steel so will rely on aftermarket people for replacement skins. Now if I could afford stainless steel I would. As for the chassis, bulkhead, A, B & C pillars and sills they have all been galvanised. For the high tension steel bolts where I have not replaced with stainless bolts - and even where I have and have dissimilar metals I have coated the exposed one in duralac to hopefully slow the corrosion down.

Thanks. Appreciate the replies.

Does anybody know what the part number is of the angled bracket that connects the heater matrix enclosure to the blower? See point 2 from the manual.

In rebuilding my 1989 110 I have to replace the gasket MUC7506 which seems to have superseded gasket ANR6333. As these gaskets are in the range of £10 to £20 could I use a Gasket paper to make them up to save myself some money? I was thinking of using something like this. High temperature (250°c) gasket paper sheet - Phoenix PG-G CNAF graphited. It comes in various thicknesses - from 0.4mm to 3mm - which thickness should one use?

These are the pieces that I am talking about. My 1989 was a Turbo Diesel and had all of these pieces. I do not want to pay stupid money for the original items, so was looking to see if the foil foam insulation - which seems a like for like replacement is the way to go. I do not want to be sticking the insulation on the inside of the vehicle, as when if the gearbox etc. needs fixing I want to be able to take out the floor panels etc..

I am currently rebuilding my 1989 110 CSW and have removed the original Closed cell foam with a reflective foil on it one side when stripping her down. Which is better to replace this original insulation on the bulkhead and under the floors especially where the exhaust runs- The closed cell foam with foil on one side or the Butyl with foil on them? Sound deadening would be a plus - however keeping as much heat out as possible is what I am looking for. I already have the wright offroad mats that I will be refitting.

I cleaned up the damper and am happy that there is no pitting, so will reuse it. Thanks for all the comments.