soutie

As per the TR6 manual it seems to be the bottom one.

Also have a look here. http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Categories/Defender_parts/Land_Rover_Defender_110/Chassis

This might also be of interest as it shows a homemade tool to replace the L354A to remove the pump cover and high pressure filter cover. It also shows that the Americans run the J and G series overdrive behind some seriously big motors and the bigger sump they use to counter the cooling problems with the oil. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1259386-gearvender-deep-sump-installation-tutorial-maximum-overdrive.html

This is the TR6 overdrive manual which you might also find useful. http://www.lbcs.ca/media/09_-_Overdrive.pdf Hope this is of some help.

I have one Aldi and one Lidl spayers that both cost under a tenner and are both still working fine 4 years later. EP90 in one and ATF in the other. I have bent up the metal pipe to help when I am on my back filling up oil and have two corks which I have drilled a hole in each to act as caps for when not in use.

Dear all Thanks for all the replies. It is appreciated. I will take photo's when I get to it and post them here.

Matt Thanks for the offer. I am rebuidling her from the axles up. I stripped her down had a new rear cross member and cross members welded in and then had the chassis galvanized. I have finished redoing the axles and suspension and have converted the rears to disk brakes. It is now the turn of the engine before going on to the gearbox and body.

I have recently purchased a 15 piece timing tool kit from a well know Internet store and was wondering if any body had a set of instructions on what tool does what? i.e. has anybody labeled their kit. I know I can sit down with the workshop manual and work out what does what - but thought may be somebody else has already done it? See attached picture where I have made a start.

Not sure how many people have seen this article. I like the slant they have put on it. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/men/thinking-man/11333722/Meet-the-4x4-enthusiasts-who-reject-21st-century-technology.html

For my overland trip I fitted a 45lt wheel arch tank. I have a 200tdi 110. I choose the alisport aluminum one. You can get Mantec and other makes. It extended my fuel capacity to 120 lts without adding an extra fuel pump etc.

Try Mole valley farmers down in Bridgwater or Promain as they both do Teamac Tractor Enamel in green http://www.promain.co.uk/product/Teamac_Metalcote_Tractor_Enamel-id2000. The Bridgwater Mole Valley farmers also has LANDROVER MARINE BLUE in stock.

Mine was LR Garage fitted. It is also a G reg TD.This is all in the paper work I have from the previous owner.The differences I have seen with a as from new 200 TDI are that mine had reflective installation on the bulkhead with the as new did not.

Never used the Asda oil. I did pop into Halfords today and noticed that they had their range of oils at £10 for 4 liters.

I phoned promain and ordered degreaser, the 6630 plus two other paints and paid £7.95 carriage before vat for all items and delivery in two days which was not bad. Phone them you will get a very different carriage price.

Gordon Attached an extract from the Sika paint spec which points out you don't need to do this for their paint. If you want, I can send to you the Sika® Galvanized Steel Duplex Guidelines Technical Data Sheet DESCRIPTION Icosit 6630 is a low VOC, one component, high build polyurethane alkyd coating for steel and galvanized structures. USES * Duplex coating of galvanized masts, towers, gates etc. * Maintenance coating for bridges, towers, masts etc. * High build corrosion protection for pipelines etc. * Maintenance/new coating for street furniture. ADVANTAGES * Low VOC. * Very mild solvent, suitable for maintenance painting over unknown single component paints. * Direct site application to new hot dip galvanized structures. * Excellent colour retention. * Excellent weathering properties and corrosion protection. * Excellent weathering properties. * Does not require T wash or etch primer primer when applied to new/weathered galvanized substrates.

I searched on the internet for the ammonia cleaner, however in the end I was in my local pound shop and I got it there. stocked up on at the same time on bowl, cheese cloth etc.. Saved me a bob or two.

I am using a roller and then a brush for the corners where the roller will not get into. I cleaned the chassis down with an ammonia cleaner first then de-greaser. I did quite a bit of research as what paint to use on galvanized metal and liked the look of this as you did not need to use T wash etc.. Peter

Have a look at the Silka Icosit 6630 paint. It can go straight on to new galvanized metal. You can get it here. http://www.promain.co.uk/product/Sika_Icosit_6630_id1630 I am using it to coat my refurbished galvanized chassis and bulkhead. Peter

Not sure of the exact wording of what will be imposed on us, but the Telegraph are running this as a success story for what we are going to get. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/9758494/EU-backs-down-over-threat-to-classic-cars.html Peter

I am in the process of a chassis up rebuild of my 110. I am planning to grit blast the bulk head and then weld in YRM repair footwell panels before getting it hot galvanized. A couple of questions with regards to the bulkhead. There appear to be rivets in the front of the bulk head below the vents that have been painted over with black sealant. Do I need to remove them or are they holding part of the bulkhead together and should be left alone? Secondly, the two tunnels where the wiring does into the engine bay, do I remove them before I get it galvanized and then bond them back in place, or do I leave them with the gaps all round with the one or two tacks they seem to have and have it galvanized like it is? Regards Peter

I am in the process of stripping my 110 down to the chassis and rebuilding her. Is it worth using an ultrasound thickness tester to check what state the chassis is in to make an educated guess whether to repair her and get it galvanized or replace her? Peter

I have a Glind heater exchanger for showering fitted to my 110. At the end of the day one the vehicle coolant was already up to temp and in fact I found it the opposite that the shower was too hot. Mind you, that was in Africa and I have not since used it in the UK.

I am currently in the process of stripping and then rebuilding my 110, and wondered how much it would cost to machine a deep sump to replace the sump plate on my GKN overdrive unit? If I did go down this route what pointers should I look out for? Looking at the current sump plate, it has a magnet stuck to where it butts up against the mesh filter. If I do get a deeper one machined do I need to make sure that there is always a magnet next to the mesh filter etc? Or does anybody know if the Land rover item is a J or P type unit? If it is should I discount my above idea and contact maximum overdrive at http://www.maximum--...m/products.html for their deep sump. The reason I want to do this is to increase the units oil capacity and have more surface area to disperse heat. The idea I had was to get something similar to http://www.rockymoun...s/52-zoomed.jpg. Thanks Peter

It is interesting, as some have stated, that Land rover have had to defend the concept vehicle. Here is their reply in the Telegraph. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/motor-shows/los-angeles-auto-show/8896532/LA-Auto-Show-Land-Rover-defends-the-Defender.html Peter

Not sure if anybody else had spotted the photos and article in the Telegraph on the new defender. My only comment is what are they going to call the new utility vehicle that replaces the Defender as the new Defender will be a poser mobile and not a vehicle used by the working classes. http://www.telegraph...r-Defender.html http://www.telegraph...n-pictures.html Peter