soutie

Thanks for the feedback. I will clean up and pain the old metal bits and get new pipes fitted from a Hydraulic place. Question on the O rings. Are they a special material compared to o rings from a motor factor?

If you check the part manual this is listed. I will pull the part numbers and post this evening.

I have an 1989 110 that had a factory conversion from TD to 200 Tdi and it used the oil cooler pipes ESR1912 / ESR1913. To replace these one needs to fork out about £110 to replace both of them. Instead of paying this price are there alternative part numbers to use - or should I get the hoses renewed by a hydraulic hose place? i.e. can I use PBP500190 or ESR3690 in place of ESR1912? Or do I have to suck it up and pay the going price?

I work for a company that makes and repairs and overhauls aircraft propellers. For our aluminum hubs bores that are worn we have them bronze sprayed and then machined. Apparently the repair is better wearing than the original aluminum. I am not sure if this is economical for the OD unit, but it might be an idea.

I have not used them for ordering, but have used their site to get part numbers. https://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L1&SPRACHE=EN&PAGE= Here is the Italian page. https://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L1&SPRACHE=IT&PAGE= Peter

Have a look here to see if it is listed. I have found this website and links to suppliers quite useful. You now have to register to see some detail, but I do not see that as a pain. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-steering

Have a read of this. https://jalopnik.com/mid-size-trucks-dont-need-frames-1785674405 Then make up your mind,

I have tried the wire wheel and wire cup and they are not as effective as the flap disks. You need to have some areas where the plastic has lifted or all they do is polish the plastic.

The way I have been getting rid of plastic on a roll cage, side bars etc. is a 40 grit flap disk on a grinder. Just make sure you wear a dust mask and eye protection.

For those on a budget aldi have these on special at the moment. https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-black-tool-chest/p/016345297749100?gclid=CjwKCAjwtO7qBRBQEiwAl5WC270HXn1NWJA_YDit7vYIlCIVvFyIumOSNOOGiDObXOGRvyCpNWBvXhoCh1EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Features 3 drawers Aluminium drawer trims Ball bearing slides Side handles 2 lid stays Keyed lock Guarantee/Warranty 3 Years I have not purchased one myself but would like comments from others who have.

I have got the bonnet underside and frame painted and want to know before I pop rivet it where to glue the frame to the skin. Plus what adhesive to use?

My good wife used black out curtain material with velcro sewn on around the top and sides. We then used the sticky velcro on the door and window frames. Putting them up was easy. See them in the rear door and back windows.We also had them for the front doors and used a car shade for the front windscreen. We used them to screen the contents rather than sleep in the vehicle as we had the roof tent.

I forgot to say I got my first few from Ebay and then learned if I bought direct from the supplier instead of from them via ebay I saved myself 50% on the next purchase.

A real life example of where I have used them. Lining the new rear floor for drilling holes before painting and then used when reassembling. I will try and find the later photo for posting

Thanks for all the responses. When working on the roof yesterday I found the remains of a very rusted 6m bolt and welded nut rattling up and down inside the chanel. I have still not managed to get it out and need to get my magnetic pointer in the channel to try and capture it. I have measured the holes and they are 8.5mm, so I am thinking of putting in a 6mm rivet nut which fits snuggly as I don't see that the screw option will work as the screw will be a bigger diameter than the windscreen holes.

In cleaning the roof it loosened up. Will repaint and put sealant on the lip when it goes back In.

With the sun roof is it best to use the water stains as markers to seal or remove it before painting and seal when reinstalling?

I am preparing to get the roof painted on my 110 rebuild and wondered what goes here? The parts diagram has either a self tapping screw or m6 bolt. There is no nut plate that I can see.

While we all arguing about the replacement defender have a look at what the competition is offering. Both a electric pickup truck and SUV. https://products.rivian.com/ Now this is really something for the hipsters. I would be interested in what the engineers have to say about its specification in particular its approach and departure angles and grounded torque. It seems that both Ford and Amazon are both taking a bet by investing in it.

Have you had a look at the J type overdrive write up here to see if that explains what is going on? https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox

Most motor factor sell Anti-Freeze Testers for determining levels of ethylene glycol anti-freeze. Example Silverline 427656 Anti-Freeze Tester.

The sockets are about 2cm across or .8 of an inch where they go into the ratchet head. The 19 mm socket there is an adaptor that makes it a 12.mm or 1/2 inch drive to take it. The model number of the set is HG01215 or IAN303402.

Went into Lidl and picked theirs up. Solid piece of kit. Will need to see how it lasts.

Talking about changing batteries on electric cars - have a read of this article on Nio battery swap system. The company uses pop up centres and swops the battery in 5 minutes.It even includes a story on a driver driving from Beijing to Shajing and back [about 2,800 miles] and swapped the battery 16 times! https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/features/eyes-china-next-level-customer-care/ Wonder when the Western car makers come up with this sort of infrastructure to support electric cars?

Here are some real life fitting instructions for your deep sump. Please take photo's and let us know how you get on. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1259386-gearvender-deep-sump-installation-tutorial-maximum-overdrive.html