smo

With regards to your water supply i'd seriously consider a bore hole over any other method for reliability, also i'd consider a basic filtration system followed by a UV treatment before drinking - you may think its pure, and the locals may say its pure and ok but it would be much safer with such a system in place for guarenteed 100% safe drinking water. Good luck out there - stunning scenery

Yes its worth it, much better engine. Wiring wise just take the whole loom, there are several bits, dash, engine and rear chassis thaty all plug together. For waterproofing the only thing to do is locate the ECU above the water level and the obvious raised air intake. For the gearbox it is possibible to keep the original wiring and controls but its best to bin them and install a compushift from Ashcrofts.

Started life as a CAT-B 90 TD5 (for parts), a new chassis and a load of other bits......

The metal canister it goes in has a screw on end cap - this is part of the housing and not the filter. The element fits inside and secures with a wing nut, the metal end then fixes onto the end of the securing shaft.

Oh dear, doesnt look good and i have some on the D-Lander.... Also a set for sale on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/QT-radius-arms-defen...A1%7C240%3A1318

Cool, cheers

I dont suppose anyone can post me an exploded view of the 4 bolt box so i can see what seal i need to replace

What is likely to be the cause of a leak from the bottom of a power steering box? Is it fixable without replacement?? (this is my replacement!!)

I have 2 "pins" on the rear stays of my cage which they go on, works a treat and really easy to get at too. I'll try and get some pics later for you.

Sorry, ment B&Q and i agree, i dont think itll bend over too well except possibly with some heat???

In my CSW i used a mat i got from B&G - its a roll of black heavy rubber matting with a "cheq plate" style grip on it. Its just narrower than the wheel boxes and is a smidge longer than a 90 load bed so needs cutting with a knife. Costs about £12 or so

I'd be tempted to spend less if you are in the TD6 range, a lot less. Otherwise the one to have as you know is the TDV8 with the current climate i'd ahve thought they arent much over budget.

Not changing it james - just fitted the auto and need a cooler, laminova is preference but not at that £££. Mocal as far as i know own/make laminova.

Ssshhh, no one knows i'm here, missus is soaking in a bath and little one is playing dolly's! How could we neglect our second homes on christmas day!! I did get given a disco 3 tho

Dont get a hand rivnut tool like the "normal" rivet style single handed operating ones - you'll never get them to work. I have a nice 2 handed long handled rivnut tool from screwfix (or possibly allfix) - it cost about £90 though but comes with variety of fittings and is really well made, its a Masterfix MFX-480QI. Thread on tools here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17822 however as fridge said, the air tools are the dogs

Happy Christmas to you all, hope its a good one

I'm looking for alternative brands/options to the Lamiova Oil/Water cooler for my auto transmission - does anyone know of any (cheaper) alternatives....

It depends on a lot of things Steve, they come in Steel, Aluminium and Stainless, a variety of finishes, many sizes and also different types (standard, thin sheet etc.), also strength is dependant on the material being put into, accuracy and method of fitting - if they go in wonky and arent fully compressed they are usless, put in correctly they are superb.

In any normal situation id take the TD5 over the 300tdi, as said above better powered, easier tuned and much much nicer to drive, however for the saving of 8K + accessories and the early TD5's not being as good as the later ones i'd probably opt for the 300tdi. This is the only time i will ever recommend a 300 over a TD5 though!

Shop around, sounds like they are having a giraffe, especially over the agreed value - i have one with NFU on mine!

It is a lot Si - i was thinking about one for the D-Lander, thankfully i no longer need one as i'm auto (altho that brings its own problems!)

Birtpart do a DMF replacement with clutch for about £350 Rakeway do a replacement with cluitch for £1000 Or you can purchase a new DMF for about £150-200

If you only add an external frame its as much use as a chocolate teapot - complete rubbish in a rollover. You need to add braces for the front hoop down to the chassis outriggers and also an internal hoop with at least one diagonal brace and preferrably some rear stays too.

A sad outcome following a terrible accident - my thoughts are with the family.

I guess thats where product liability insurance comes in - however providing evidence such as Si (X-eng) has is the onyl thing feasable at the current time without TUV/BS certification. This is the point in quesiton tho, do we need more, should the law require a formal testing and certificaiton procedure?