Mocha Bear

I put an order in with them in the second week of Jan, got my order yesterday.... their communication is terrible every time i called them they said 'we were just about to call you.....' they didn't once respond to an e mail, they never called me back when they said they would, offered me no compensation for an order that took 5 weeks to come. don't think i will use them again anytime soon.

I take it that you are using one of the FIA swtiches? if so i have cut into the stop solenoid wire with the normally open spade connections so that the stop solenoid dies when you kill the switch. Mocha

I haven't had a problem with my free spool MrHT. If i had then i wouldn't have bothered making a system for it! Delta tek or the GP equivalent are obviously going to be better, i don't deny that, but mine has cost me less than 10% of the price of the alternatives. If it doesn't work in comps as it is currently testing then i haven't lost anything as normal manual operation isn't an issue, it just means Sutty has to work harder! just thought it was worth a try! Mocha

^^^^I think Scatt is correct.... it is important which side they go on. the truck tilts if its wrong!

Depends on the voltage of the switch, 3v, 6v, 12v, 18v, and 24v have LED's over that are bulbs i believe. Mocha

I agree, looks like the only thing it can be!? doubt it is part of a shell or the engine would be rough. Mocha

Most people I know used duck tape, seems to work well enough! Mocha

Got mine at a show last year, its brilliant! loads of room for wiring behind the dash which is always good.... this is what I did with mine. Mocha

I built mine from parts on the Jetex site! was really easy to do! Mocha

The plastic ones haven't let me down yet! I only use one battery so don't have the same problems as you might find with two. As far as operating multiple keys on one cable there are many ways, i have taken inspiration from BMX gyro systems, just going to fabricate up a couple of cable splitter plates and run separate cables to all isolators, should also make adding isolators easy and cheap if needed. will just have to see if it works i guess! The durite switches are already capable of cable operation, all you need is a hole in the key lever! Mocha

If it aint broke don't fix it!! Mocha

Thats the isolator i am using for the vehicle electrics as it has the relay to help kill ignition (there are other ways but this is an easy way ). Then I am going to use a plain type isolators (as the top one is) for the winch circuits. i have been using the latter for a few months and haven't had a problem, seem to handle the current draw fine. Mocha

I Have one in my truck, I didn't buy it, it was already fitted, relatively easy to clean and re oil but probably not as easy as just fitting a new filter! as far as performance i cant see there being much of a difference, dont think they reduce the blockage significantly. Mocha

Not sure if we know for definite but I cant see it being a problem. 1 pull to kill all power... easy! don't think there is a reason why it cant be more than one isolator that you kill in the process. Does there have to be an isolator pull on the out side of the vehicle? or just easily assessable? I'm in the process of designing my system so would be good to know! Mocha

That system would be fine until you try and load the batteries heavily (winching), then the amp meter would probably pop! I guess it has to be in series to the circuit rather than the parallel set up for a standard volt meter therefore the current draw capacity would need to be able to match that of all ancillaries and winch motors. I think most people have the volt meters fitted just to check that the alternator is working and they also let you know if you are shorting something! From my Limited experience with batteries the only way I have found of determining their condition is to deep cycle discharge and then use a voltage controlled charger with a constant charge rate to determine the energy returned to the cells. this is a lot of hassle! Anyway, guess it just depends what sort of accuracy and information you are looking for! Rant over! Sorry! Mocha

Was looking on the bay and also found This Little Monitor. Simple and Cheap, Maybe a bit big for a bike but would work in a truck! Mocha

There is a reason engines produce the power they do out of the box, a lot of people spend a lot of time tuning and testing engines before we even see them to ensure they are safe. The reason some people don't see damage will be because the engine is hardly used in the 'tuned' range. As mentioned above the biggest issues are always temperature related, the stock manifolds and turbos found on all engines will be made out of a material chosen for the highest temperatures the designers expect to see. Therefore pushing past this can cause the materials to become plastic and deform perminately. Tuning needs to be done with care and with EGT a paramount concern. If you need more power ensure the hardware is up to it. Low down torque pete is limited without big boost! Low down boost is hard to achieve with only one turbo! But I am sure there will be improvements to be had! Anyway rant over! Mocha

I am A little too excited i think.... Cant wait, had a really good time last year and you guys have got us hooked! Also Pete, yes it is the same place! you should try putting a limit on throttle pedal travel, it isn't an on/off switch! may stop you smashing stuff! Mocha

Thank you everyone for your replys, I have been in touch with the GLASS rep for the area and have got some tips from him. As for the memory map overlays offered by Simon that would be perfect then atleast I can check the lanes around home! I will send you a PM in a moment! Thanks again Mocha

Hello all, Basically I am going home for x mas for a couple of weeks and would like to go and do a few lanes whilst I am there. I will be in south Norfolk so any information people have about good lanes in the area would be much appreciated. Thetford Forest would make a good starting point, I have been looking on the internet for more info about the fire tracks and whether they can be used of not but have not been able to find much information. Any help would be great, maps, GPS points, memory map overlays etc! If anyone is up for coming out with me that would be great too! Thank you! Mocha

Here is one pic that always makes me laugh when i look at it! I have full resolution as well. Mocha

If you are hearing 'big sssshhhhhhhhhhhhh' sound under full load acceleration then thee may just be a boost leak post compressor, definitely worth checking for loose pipes etc. If the engine is smoking a lot then the boost may be a problem. otherwise as above really, I understand that there is a problem with the injector loom getting damaged by oil/fuel and it can effect the ECU if left untreated. i guess that the symptoms would be very much like a misfire if this were the case? with the TD5 being driven by an ECU there are a number of things the ECU may have 'fallen over' on. if you can it may be worth getting it plugged into a diagnostics piece of software to check for ECU faults, more often than not these will give you the answer! this may explain the power limit that you are experiencing, the ECU may have flagged a fault and decided to limit the power output to save the engine. Hopefully it is a boost leak and therefore a 'free' fix! hope that helped a little, Mocha

Thanks for the Links! very helpful! has anyone got any pictures of bonnet mounts or any ideas where to buy them from? Mocha

Just don't let it idle for long periods of time, also try not to hold one speed for long (engine speed). Ramp the load on and off, so going up and down hills is a good idea. I would start with low loads (empty truck) but after a couple of hundred miles start to up the load. once the oil consumption of the engine has reduced (will use a bit to start with while bedding rings etc.) it is a good time to start putting full load on, i.e. full pedal accelerations and climbing hills with weight. Basically as people have said above, just be 'kind' to it to start with but don't be afraid to load the engine, light loads will cause the most polishing!

I am going to have to give this one a try, does the silicone not degrade/melt with the heat from the bulbs? Mocha