101sean

+1 for the V8forum, found it very useful during my engine rebuild. My 101's V8 ate it's camshaft at 70,000km, no7 exhaust lobe gone totally and rest not far behind!! Amazingly it still ran well if noisily despite this and a worn out dizzy, 101 would still do 60! I'd always done regular oil changes but I'm it's 4th civvy owner.

Couple of plates on my 101 rockers bolted to the pedestals, can't see they do anything effective. Not fitted to later engines, of which I've pulled several apart trying to find a good one There's guys here who would know for sure http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/index.php

Earlier one still has internals that restrict the flow, get the kit to bin the whole stupid thing! Main difference with post 02 is that it's water cooled and has two vacuum actuators. It's not as completely stupid as the the one we just had to replace on my sister's Renault Scenic, heap of French poo

TBH, if your existing earths are good and clean that's not your problem. Otherwise, daisy chain them, only need one terminal then. Battery to bolt on chassis then from same bolt to engine.

You will have to get it plugged in to program the injector codes. I think you may also to tell it there's no alarm/immobiliser.

I gave up subscribing to magazines, despite only being in Ireland they came via Sweden, Switzerland, France and Germany and arrived up to 3 weeks after publication . Buy them here now despite having to pay VAT on them.

Some sound advice here - www.v8forum.co.uk Stick the non serp timing cover and dizzy on the soft dash engine and use that (will need a spacer on the crank pulley) Most parts are interchangeable. I've just rebuilt my 101 engine from 3 different ones plus new cam and lifters.

The Ireland section of LRA acted as a clearing house for gossip, events news etc for us. The change has meant most of us left and have started an all Ireland 4x4 forum that has taken off big time in the last week. As so many deleted their membership, the Ireland forum on LRA can only be seen by registered members I like this site for it's level headed (well mostly!) tech side and am a member of too many others but LRA is now dropping off the radar for me.

There's a lot of us not very amused by the move

3.0 Isuzus should be avoided, very unreliable. Isuzu here in Ireland were offering €7500 scrappage on 3.0 Troopers last year to try and get sales back, farmers were hauling them out of hedges everywhere

I used a 34mm socket on mine, slightly loose fit, 32 won't go, 1 5/16" is 33.33mm. 3/4" rattle gun had it off in a jiffy, no lock washer. Starting handle on the 101 is very handy for setting timing.

Definitely not, that's home made. The back axles are very close, probably separate drives going by the extra levers in the cab. There were approved 6x6 conversions like Sandringham and Townley. That definitely isn't one though.

Yes, if have ABS the dash light should come on when you start the engine and go out when you get to 5mph or so unless there's a fault and it will stay on. It's possible a PO has disabled the light to disguise the problem?

EP90 is too heavy and could make the change graunchy, also the LT95 has an oil pump to circulate the oil, these can break with a heavy oil.

That's a point, check what's in it, should be 20W50 in both main and transfer cases.

Could be wear in the selectors or end of the gear lever, there's a roll pin and grub screw in there somewhere. They can be pretty agricultural but shouldn't that bad. I could never find 2nd in my old 101 box that was down to making a cock up fitting an overdrive.

I've got pictures of Alvin Smith's creation in action in Peter Pit in the 80s before Greater Crested Newts stopped the fun. Must get round to scanning the pics, got dozens of them.

Manual says you need to remove the fan but I've done it without, take the top guard panel off and feed the belt round the fan and various pulleys, fairly obvious which route it takes. If you stand in front of bumper and look down from above, the tensioner is the bottom left hand pulley (nearest PAS box if RHD). You need a 15mm spanner or socket on a long bar to move it against spring pressure towards the PAS box, easier if you have someone who can hold the tensioner back while you feed the belt round.

Can't be many 1967 Lightweights around, prepare to be flamed for your heresy!

As Western and others have said, convert the hubs back to two nuts and a lock washer as god originally intended. One of the stake nuts on mine was so badly peened over it wasn't much more than hand tight. There's also a spacer between the bearings you need to bin.

Got a front ABS sensor gone on my 2000 110CSW, Nanocom showing electrical failure and if I swap the front sensors, the fault shifts sides. Anyone know if there is a difference between STC1749 which is Discovery but some list as for both Discovery and Defender and SSW100050 which is what Microcat says is correct for mine? They look the same in photos and STC1749 is more common and cheaper

so true!

3 bolt boxes have imperial threads, your hoses/pipes won't fit.

The differences listed above need a 95 page catalogue for the 1986 contract and 130 pages or so for the 1991 contract, the catalogues are supplemental to the civvy catalogue so there's a lot. The later 'Wolf' XD Defenders bear little resemblance other than shape to a civvy Defender.

If you are going to Withams, make an appointment, don't just turn up, you could get turned away if they are busy. FF's categories are good , the second one is worth keeping an eye out for, been cases of vehicles getting major new componenets (engine, chassis etc) and then getting a dented wing and is cast as it's used up it's budget. Have a look on www.milweb.net as well