101sean

Done that before on a 97 Renault Trafic, changing the clutch on those was a nightmare! Plate wasn't marked but after a bit of debate we reckoned we had it figured so I handed it up to my bro in law but turned it around in the process!! Book time for a clutch in one of them is 9 hours, we had it down to 3.5 in the end as they ate clutches and gearboxes.

As said above, check your existing wiring especially the earth. 99% of the time this will be the problem rather than starter or battery. If the tests with jump leads don't make a difference, get the battery drop tested.

The main differences are the way the doors are made, totally different post 2002 and supposedly less prone to corrosion.. Other than that I don't think were any other significant changes material wise.

ECU does get a signal from the transducer but it shouldn't affect running? I've had one fail and a new one over-read by by 100%, neither of which affected the way the engine run.

I usually undo them with a 17mm socket although I have ones that won't slip. They shouldn't be hard to undo even if rusty but may have been loctited, even so shouldn't need much force. The thread isn't standard (can't remember what it is other than it's fine) but belts usually come with new bolts..

You can't use the Disco gearbox, the gear lever will be in the wrong place. You will need the disco tbox though, the 90 will have a 1.61 box so the 300tdi would be screaming it's nuts off at 60 if you kept it. You can fit the 300Tdi to your current gearbox but IIRC you fit the flywheel housing off the petrol to the 300tdi. As well as the normal Tdi conversion plumbing you'll also need to fit a return fuel line to the tank and fit heater plug wiring. You'll have to weld new engine mounts on as well. There's links off Glencoynes website for similar conversions. http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200tdi.htm You shouldn'thave any issue swapping the bits as you're keeping the chassis and bodywork.

Will do although I can't guarantee it will be this weekend, it may be the following one as it's a bank holiday here giving a bit more time.

My NCT (Irish MOT) has just run out and haven't had time to replace my rear crossmember. Like Ralph I prodded a small hole that spread to much of the crossmember and I'd been towing fully laden trailers recently! Rather shocked as very little of the rot could be seen externally although at 12 years old I should have foreseen it Have had a Black Sheep 6mm crossmember sitting in the shed for 6 weeks now, hopefully will fit it this weekend before I get a tug from the Garda Siochana

Unplug the MAF, it's next to the air filter in the hose to the turbo. If it suddenly goes better you have a duff MAF, only fit a genuine replacement. You are better off with a remap, most of the boxes just fool the injectors in to dumping more fuel in and can make for a poorer driving experience. There is a way of loading a remap yourself using a Nanocom or Hawkeye, some of the remap companies will email you a new map after you send them your existing one. Not as good as them having the vehicle in the workshop but could be the better option for you. You'd also find yourself better equipped than the local mechanic and be able to diagnose your own problems with inexpensive diagnostic kit. Also have a punt on the African Land Rover forums, you could find someone near enough.

Try here - http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/index.php

Mine was from ReversingcamerasUK, link in my previous post.

It replaces the rear view mirror quite adequately. You can't hang it on the existing mirror, it blocks too much of the windscreen. This is my solution, had to shorten the sun visors as well.

I have that monitor/mirror on mine, it works fine as a mirror and is more intuitive to use as a monitor than a dash mounted one. The Defender mirror hangs too low to clip the monitor to so I made a bracket that's screwed to the original points which puts the monitor just below the top of the screen. Didn't bother wiring the system to the reversing light as it only takes a tap on the screen to turn it on. Brother in law has the same on his 130 and leaves it on all the time when towing as a rear view mirror, has a top quality camera fitted though. The camera in that kit won't be the best, you want a CCD camera for a decent picture. Got mine from here - http://shop.reversin...ts/"M705W5 120"

Not really feasible unless you are really keen. I have an ABS equipped Defender. Rear axles sensor reads off a serrated plate behind the brake disc and is mounted in the axle end, also requires a different stub axle with a cut out to clear the sensor. I'm not sure if the sensor mounting is present on a standard axle. Front sensor is mounted in a hollow top swivel pin and reads of the serrated edge of the CV joint so you'd need to change both Servo and master cylinders are different to standard. ABS modulator is the same as the D2 but is wired differently, I don't think the pin outs are the same and uses a different ECU to D2.

Engine oil is 5W/30 semi or fully synthetic, takes around 7litres I think, buy two canisters anyway. Gearbox is MTF94, not ATF. Can't recall how much, 3litre? Filler plug needs a splined bit to open. Rest is 80W90 Straightforward otherwise, you have a rotor oil filter as well as the standard one. Don't overtighten the the rotor filter cover, there's not much thread. Normal filter can be hard to access but mine have been finger tight so come of easily. While you are poking around, pull the red plug off the ecu and check for oil, hopefully you'll find none. If you do, order an injector loom. If the engine is a bit oily they can leak from the rocker gasket at the rear or the plastic bung on the front of the rocker carrier. Check at the right rear corner of the engine above the starter for diesel, the fuel pressure regulators leak after 80-90k. Otherwise, it's the same as any other Defender.

Repaired my ABS modulator today, had the ABS/ETC lights on for ages and a "Shuttle Switch Electrical Failure" fault in my 2000 110 CSW.. The Disco 2 modulator repair is well covered - http://www.landrover...om/abs-mod.html but as ABS isn't common on a Defender I couldn't find any info. The unit looks the same a Disco 2 so took a chance and ordered the repair kit SWO 500030. The modulator is a tight fit between the pedal box and the wing and I was hoping to change the switch without removing the modulator. After removing the snorkel I could get decent access through the intake hole in the wing. I removed the 10mm nuts securing the unit and prised it out of the mounting bracket and then removed the mounting bracket off the bulkhead. I supported the modulator with a screwdriver under the pipes and over the wing and servo. This leaves loads of room under the modulator to get in with 4mm hex to remove the 3 cap headed bolts holding the shuttle switch unit to the underside of the modulator. The old and new switches are identical so put the new in, put it all back together and the lights are no longer on! The old unit has one switch that doesn't feel right and the resistance readings are all wrong. If the fix hadn't worked it would have meant the connections inside the modulator were kaput and I would have carried out the switch mod detailed in the Disco 2 article. The wiring colours are different though so would have had to do some testing to find which one to cut!

Pretty horrifying what lurks in there and I was towing a laden 14ft Ifor Williams with mine I'm allowing three days for mine, first day removal of bits inc tank, going to cut an access hole for the fuel pump while I'm at it. Then get a welding mate in for however long it takes him and also spray black sticky sh1te everywhere. Final day to bolt it all back together and sort electrics.

The Blacksheep ones can come with extensions but in kit form (you can see the various bits in my piccie)

Got the same with mine , trouble is it will be much worse internally. This started out as a pinhole Just bought a Black Sheep Offroad rear crossmember, 6mm steel and no mudtraps! (LH one is mine, RH is for a 1991 90)

Usually no, R380s have longer bellhousings than LT77s unless it's a rare short shaft version.

The 24V system is independent of the 12V vehicle electrics so you can remove it no problem. Leaving the various earth braids is a sound plan though! The wing boxes etc will be worth a bit on ebay.

It's unlikely to be the ecu and you can't just swap them around anyway without programming them to the alarm, injectors etc. Yours will almost certainly have an alarm/immoboliser, very unusual to find a home market one without. You really need to get it plugged in and faults and live readings taken to see what the problems are or you are just throwing bits at it blindly.

Fill a bucket with random screws and fixings and dip your hand in, I'm sure that's what they did on the Defender production line!

Thanks. Found out elsewhere that a 2012 version of Microcat shows it as FTC3188. None of the usual suspects list a 110 ABS stub axle hence me ordering the wrong part!

Need to replace a rear stub axle on my Defender. Sept 2000 110 Td5 with ABS. 61S Salisbury axle. SALLDHM871A605406 My microcat only gives FTC1740 but when I got the part it doesn't have a cut out for the ABS sensor. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for,.FTC3188?