101sean

I had the same problem in the past on a 2000 110 CSW, turns out ABS fitted ones use different pads! Can't remember the part number.

I've a 2000 110 CSW with a 10P engine that's done 160,000 miles and should be god for a lot more. The later 15P engines have some changes to ancillaries like EGR and fuel cooler but the main thing is it has steel head locating dowels rather than the plastic ones of the 10P. These can shear leading to head gaskets going but i don't think it's that common. Any head can crack but you only hear the horror stories rather than the majority giving no trouble. The common things that go around the 100k mark are the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump and the starter motor although my original pump is still going strong. Like others have said, when it comes to a clutch change, the DMF often needs doing as well. My gearbox went at 80k, previous owner never had any servicing or warranty work done by a decent garage and there was EP90 in the gearbox! Bodywork wise mine is getting shabby with all four door frames rotting nicely and I've recently had to replace the rear crossmember with a Black Sheep one.

Didn't think the Tdi pmp mounting bracket fitted earlier engines, could be wrong though.? Basically the alternator mount unbolts off your engine and you fit the combined PAS and alternator mount in its place, it's that simple if the Tdi one fits. Has your engine got a double crankshaft pulley? If not, you'll need to change if for a universal triple one.

IIRC, the early type Nanocom reads it the wrong way round, mine does the same. As said, some dealers bridged the plug to shut customers up! You won't hear a change in engine note at idle but apply a few revs and move from high to low an you'll the engine note change.

It's probably well rusted to the chassis rails, either hit it harder or spread the rails as suggested. Treat the chassis before you put it back, it will be badly pitted.

I guessed you probably were an ex member, I'll say no more!

From the 101 club forum (will be in trouble for passing secret info to non members! ) (sizes are OD, ID, width) Oil seal: 100 x 80 x 10 mm double-lip Inner bearing: 95 x 60 x 24 mm JLM508748 + JLM508710 Outer bearing: 82 x 50 x 21.5 mm JLM104948 + JLM104910 You need a 60mm spanner for the hub nuts.They are bog standard bearings.

Mine burnt out when I was taking my son to the airport last year, frantic 10 mins at the side of the road pulling the cowl apart and linking it out!! I kept the plug off the old switch and linked it so I can do a quick replacement when the new switch dies at the most inappropriate time

You'll never totally get rid of 101 propshaft overrun rumble, tilting diffs and using double carden props lessens it, most of us just live with it. it is frightening first time you hear it, you think the axle is going to explode! Fitting a GKN 2015 series front prop cures the UJ issue, had the same front prop on for over 10 years now with no wear. Both props do run at silly angles though.

http://www.nkrecovery.co.uk/ If you do get the 101 you should join the 101 club for the spares support and forum advice. http://www.101club.org/forums/index.php

Grind out the pitting with a Dremel or similar, thoroughly clean with solvent and fill with metallic epoxy resin and sand down, it's what most owners do. 101 axles come up on ebay plus I think Nick Kaye may have some, expect to pay around £750 for a crated one though. Some 101 owners have fitted Defender axles to give disc braking and a wider choice of rim but I think it's a retrograde step. Obviously changes the ratios as well, 101 axles are 1:5.57

Spare can't be a legal requirement, lot of modern cars only carry a can of tyre sealant which is a fat lot of good if the sidewall gets ripped! Not sure what to do with my spare, took the swingaway off when I replaced the rear crossmember and preferred the look of the rear end without a spare so sold the carrier! Spare is just lobbed in the back at the moment but was thinking of sticking it on the bonnet, all my previous LR had it there so it doesn't bother me but a 265 on a Td5 bonnet doesn't work so well

I reckon Ralph is correct, linkage is seized though lack of use, mine was the same when I got it. I had to beat the cross shaft (24 on diag) back and forth with a No 3 BFH to free it off! Managed to do it through the gearlever aperture but it's easier to take the tunnel off. If you do any dismantling don't lose the nylon top hat washers (26) or it will be too wobbly to engage, it's fairly obvious how it works when it starts moving.

The weight is a vibration damper. You need a cranked spanner or a shallow 17mm socket to get to the adjuster. No need to take the weight off.

Get it plugged in first and see if it comes up with faults or injector balance problems. Also check your red ecu plug for oil, you may need to change the injector loom. If the fault reading does throw up a problem, you need to swap the bad injector out, a new one needs coding in to the ecu. If none of those problems show up it may be worth changing the injector seals.

Renault Scenic seats, been a few posts on fitting them, looks to an easy option.

Didn't they check the actual temperature with the diagnostic kit? My engine takes an age to warm up, I changed the thermostat when i had to fit a new rad, unfortunately it came in a blue box............

The original chassis plate should show 3142kg, the increased weight is shown on a supplementary plate which many owners just remove as it confuses MOT testers (puts it in Class VII). I got off a speedng ticket in Ireland by proving they were built at 3142kg, they tried to do me for doing over 80kph in a vehicle over 3.5t

This site shows you how to dismantle and rebuild the older J type, the GKN Defender one is basically the same apart from the output. Found it useful in trying to fix mine before I gave up on it and threw it in a corner of the shed. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm Ooops, just realised the link had already been posted!

I'm with Western on this, check the throttle cable before panicking! They can fray or rust internally and the return spring may not be strong enough to pull it back when hot. If it's fast idling, open the bonnet and see f you can close it manually on the pump. If so, that's your problem.

Leaking exhaust manifold gasket?

They were at Dunsfold at the weekend.

Yes you can, may have to hunt around a bit for a mate with the gear or pay a fabricator

Early 110/military doortops are same shape as series but have a totally different aluminium construction. Don't know that anyone supplies them as they generally don't rot, they have a high secondhand price as they are a popular retrofit. Best bet is ebay and expect to pay good money, either that or get yours tig welded.

Swapped the fuel filter and it seems a bit quieter but haven't given it a run yet, that won't happen until I go to Dunsfold next Friday. My ABS lights came back on while on the same journey as the pump got noisy so plugged the Nanocom in. Shuttle Switch Failure again so the pins must be gone in the Modulator (new switch fitted last year) and I've got rear right electrical failure despite fitting new sensors so it looks like a loom problem. It's never ending, sometimes wonder if it's worth it!