MR-HIPPO

Is that a crack in the second pic? Running from the Bolt head corner at around 3 o'clock, to the end of the screw on the jubilee clip.

Here you go. https://www.keithgott.co.uk/

Welcome to the forums. I may be wrong, there are certainly many more knowledgeable people than myself here. That looks like two yellow stripes to me. According to THIS CHART that would make them NRC8045, standard duty 110 front springs. Hope this helps, Hippo.

Nice job. From the end result, it would appear that the Gorilla glue reacting with the paint actually worked in your favour.

Thanks for your input in this thread, it is appreciated. It would seem that we are only a few miles apart.

OK, so if a new section is not an option, from the rot in your pictures, I think lopping the complete corner section off and starting again would be the path of least resistance. If I wanted to get that corner through a few more MOTs without throwing cash at it, and doing all the work myself, I would: Unbolt and remove the lifting eye. Unbolt the body mount. Cut the whole rotten corner section of the crossmember off, flush with the chassis rail. Clean up and if necessary repair the last few inches of chassis rail where the old corner section was removed. From a bit of sheet steel, fold the shape of the rear face, and bottom edges of the removed section. Cut a length of 2 1/2 inch ish box section the same length as the top edge of the removed section. Weld one end of the box section to the cleaned up end of the chassis rail, so that in sits where the original top edge of the removed section used to sit. Weld the new folded sheet rear face / bottom edges section on to the back of the box section, and to the end of the chassis rail / remaining, rear face of the crossmember. (weld the top and bottom corners of the box section to the sheet steel) The new section should now be the same shape (viewed from behind the vehicle) as the removed section. Cut the removed rusty chassis section away from the body mount, and bolt the mount back on to the tub, then weld it on to the rear face of the new section of crossmember. From the rear the repair should now look like the original section, but without the jacking point and various bolt holes. I am not saying that this is the correct / only / best way to repair this, I am just presenting it as an option, and as an example of something that I would consider doing myself. Hope this helps, Hippo.

Indeed. They appear to be fairly well built, and I would not fancy doing that job without a hoist. Yes, saw the workshop auction mentioned on here a few weeks ago. I emailed Superwinch in the US for a manual, but so far no response.

Update: I managed to spend some time on this over the weekend. I used the instructions posted in Daveturnbull's Hi4 install thread Here as a guide, they confirmed that the freespool housing does indeed just lift off. Well at least it should do, mine was stuck solid! After much lube, (now using an Acetone / ATF mix) and a whole lot of prying, hitting and swearing, the winch was left suspended by the freespool housing, a couple of inches above the floor for the night. There are a couple of drain holes in the bottom of the housing, and it is possible to squirt lubricant towards the shaft and dog assembly. When I came back the next day it was still not coming off. The T shaped freespool handle seemed to be stopping it from coming away. The Allen head bolt in the handle was seized, and the head rounded out, I had to get very brutal with it in order to get it undone. With the handle removed and the aid of some large levers, the freespool housing finally came away from the drum. The reason this was such a pig to get off was that the freespool dog and the end bearing were seized to the shaft, and the whole lot pulled out of the housing together as one solid lump. With that off it was plain sailing to pull off the bearing & knock of the dog. The drum would still not rotate around the shaft, so that also had to be removed. After everything was cleaned and resembled (with a little grease) everything seems to work as it should., The freespool handle pulls out by hand, and is snapped back into place by the spring, thus locking the drum. Now, when locked the drum can be rocked by hand a few degrees against the dog. Very happy. A big Thank Youto all who replied here offering advice. The exploded diagram posted by Anderzander was very helpful, and Arjan's post got me looking at alternatives to WD40. Many thanks, Hippo

Thanks for posting, It sounds so simple when you say it like that. Currently, it has been getting WD40 at random intervals for a couple of days. The Alloy Freespool knob has at last started moving it can be "wiggled" by hand and moves quite freely in relation to the steel collar that it sits on. It will also move in out around 5mm, however to achieve this I have to knock the lever in with a hammer, and wood block, and pry it out with a tyre lever. It is not possible to move the drum at all by hand, even when using both hands. I have been able to rotate the drum manually by using a 19mm spanner on the hexagonal shaft in the drive linkage under the power steering pump. Obviously it is not possible to rotate the winch and move the knob at the same time using this method, so I have been rolling underneath, applying a couple of turns to the shaft with the spanner, getting out and knocking the knob in, prying it out, getting back underneath, ..... Bloody knackered. still only a few mm of movement. My best guess now is that the release gear is stuck / seized on the main shaft through the drum. With luck, it will free up tomorrow. Many thanks, Hippo.

Thank you, the cut away diagram helps. It looks as if the complete freespool end of the winch simply slides off of the shaft / drum? I am unable to pull the cable out by hand. I have just operated the winch in reverse with the engine running, and the drum rotated feeding cable out of the fairlead. So. It seems I have a working PTO / winch, but the freespool is seized in a not fully disengaged position.

The Knob on mine is seized solid. It will not push in, pull out or rotate. It seems the manual for this type of winch is like rocking horse poo. Superwinch have not replied to my enquiry for a service manual / exploded diagram, and the Tavistock telephone number for Superwinch is no longer in service.

Thanks for that. Still no information on the actual winch unit though. The operating lever & end cover on the 525 is a completely different arrangement.

Close, but no cigar. That Manual is for the hydraulic version. I am after the literature for the Mechanically driven PTO version. Thank you none the less for a quick response.

I have just picked up an ex utility Defender 200tdi fitted (by Land Rover SVO) with a Superwinch H14, the mechanical PTO driven version. I am trying to find a manual for the winch but all of the links (well the ones I have found) previously posted on this site appear to be dead. If anyone here has a PDF copy of the User or Service manuals for the PTO driven H14, or an exploded diagram, I would be very grateful if you could share them with me. I would also be interested in a copy of the fitting instructions, as this may end up on another vehicle. The winch is the kind with the knob on the end like the one in the picture below. The knob on mine appears to be stuck fast, so I assume that I will need to partially dismantle the unit to get it to work. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Hippo.

Probably unrelated, but I will throw it out there. I think I had a similar issue with an old ford transit diesel engine retrofit many years ago. IIRC it was caused by having the wrong banjo fitting in the Fuel return line. The incorrect banjo had a very small hole internally and was restricting the flow to return.

I was going to reply and say they are different, but I thought I would take the time to actually try this in the vehicle on the move. With out the vacuum hose connected, (so no servo in the system at all) the brakes are scarily bad, worse than they were with the fractured servo. Reminded me of an old Commer caravanette that I briefly owned back in the 80's With the servo plugged back in, the difference is very apparent, chalk & cheese. The brakes feel excellent, certainly the best brakes I have ever had on a Defender. The engine had not been run for at least an hour and a half prior to disconnecting the hose from the servo, but there was still a good vacuum present. Everything clearly works, yet the servo fails the classic servo test. Very strange. Disclaimer: Do not try disconnecting you vacuum hose from your servo while driving 😉 Thanks again, Hippo.

Thank you. As I suspected. No such thing as "the wrong place" on a Land Rover.

Thank you.

Thanks guys. That would explain it. I have not come across these before They did look like normal bolts to me. Very small, around 3mm in diameter but did not seem to have a metric thread or head size. It seems I have learnt something new today. Sneaky.

OOPS, seems I put my heater control cables in the wrong place (if there is such a thing on a Land Rover) My cables run along the bulkhead. I would never of guessed that they were attached to the engine. Thanks guys. Not at all important, but, every time I see the bracket on mine, I wonder what it is, and then promptly forget about it until the next time I look at my engine. Mine is RHD or: LHD Land Rovers are not proper Land Rovers and as such do not count 😊

I know, I think this is one of those catch 22 situations. This is at the end of a fairly major over haul, during which the MOT expired, and the vehicle was SORNed. I think I am therefore unable to drive it, other than to an MOT. Also if I understand the new MOT rules correctly, should the MOT result in a Dangerous Fail, then I would not be able to drive the vehicle home. i do not remember MOT time being awkward in the past. Thanks for the replies, your input is appreciated.

On my Defender 200TDI engine, there is a bracket on the top rear of the rocker cover. Item 6 in the picture below. What would this bracket normally hold?

I phoned my MOT station. The tester I spoke with explained that holding the pedal while the engine is started is the test they would use to determine if the servo is good. Defective servo = major fail. Inoperative servo = Dangerous Fail. However when test driven the brakes feel pretty decent.

Update: I have just fitted a new master cylinder and the problem is still haunting me. Rebuilt brake callipers all round. New solid brake lines. New brake flexi hoses. New servo LR013488 (TRW) New master cylinder LR013018 (TRW) New non return valve. STC493 The vacuum pump is not new but seems to work ok, I have also used a known good replacement vacuum pump. The pedal refuses to sink when it is held down (after depleting the vacuum) and the engine is started. This is driving me nuts.

To answer my own question: I have just managed to screw the two bolts / machine screws into the un-threaded holes and mount the switch.