Lara

Here's what happens witha 2.8 TD5 God I hate people like me Lara. 1kw = 1.36 ps 1lb/ft = 1.33 NM Orange = Torque Red = Power on Engine Blue = Power at wheels Green = Power loss in transmission.

You d' Daddy Bro B) B) Lara.

Definately fits as I have one too, changing to Maxidrive converted low range this evening so will take some pics for you tonight. Lara.

I just read the Tech section on Hydraulic winches, S--t boys wait for me Nothing left to write, I am totally impressed with both of your very informative write-ups, I will try to add my bit but only so people can look at different setups as their is certainly not much I can add to you two Lara.

Well if you really want a definitive answer go and try it, I just read these comments and have heard it before. So went to prove the theory. In my workshop a tyre with OD of 30" at 10psi traveled +- 4"less than the same tyre at 30 psi. (with a car weighing about 1.5 tones) I have experienced the same thing on my rolling road, tyre pressure does change the speed / RPM measurement. Remember that tyres are rubber and that they also "grow" at high wheel RPM. Lara.

Looks like that mini Landrover is going to be a wonderful bit of kit, It makes me want one even though I haven’t got any kids yet. Interesting note on MDF, one of my friends is the man who invented it And his name? Dick Van Dijk would you bellieve Lara.

Does the guy in that APC look embarrased or what? I also want a big 6x6 Scammel truck. Lara.

Saw some lovely pics of an old model T driving up and down Snowdon (or was it Ben Nevis?) the other day in one of my old Landy mags, Absolutely astounding that these old cars were and still are so capable. Lara.

This is my Current Want more than anything on wheels, Known in our workshop as the "julian Special" but is a 1938 Lagonda 4.5 Litre one off racing special that was built in 1938/9 to race in international competition. 4.5 Litre Supercharged engine with 300 BHP @ 4800 rpm. Car weighs one ton Can not wait till it is finished but my Landy keeps getting in the way of finishing it. Lara.

You are welcome to use any pictures you wish. Regards, Julian.

Nice Will, I wish I was allowed one of those handbrake thingys Glad you joined the pack and are now reaping the benifits. Nice write-up. Lara.

HFH is the king of Hydraulic I am sure he will give us all something to think about Lara.

I will also try to add something, I am in the process of modifying my MM to run on not only its big PTO pump but have fitted back the auxiliary power steering type engine driven pump to cut in when my wheels stop turning or turn V slow when drive assisting, also fitting similar system to a friends truck in front and rear. Will try to do this weekend. Lara.

Apparently he is going to use rubber implants as well Lara

KAM heavy duty jobbies, so far no problems and check them every time I changed a shaft (lots) I use 3.54:1 ring and pinions and am fitting a Maxidrive low range kit this weekend Fingers crossed Lara.

Hi Neil, Good explanation, Careful though mentioning 4340M (S155) in the same breath as Maraging 300 (S162), I had a problem the other day while talking to a guy who should have known better who was referring to 300M and 4340M (both the same material) as Maraging 300, (not the same) (I am sure you know but others may not) Maraging is far and a way a different material to 4340 or 4340M which is a vacuum re-melted refined version of 4340. In its self very good but not up to the standards of Maraging steels. http://www.corusengineeringsteels.com/dwn/...aton%202003.pdf For those interested you may like to look at this link but to be truthful Neil made a much better explanation than most teachers. Regards, Lara.

Now you are getting double expensive, can I have time for my wallet to rest please Lara.

Hi Will, Power guessing is easy, My car is faster than my mates car and he has a K&N filter and a twirly inlet thingy and his mate in the pub tells him he has 300hp so I must have 350 ! Easy realy (I love that smiley cos I look like it most of the time)

Hi Neil, I did not see the analysis my self but am told (and can see by the fished shafts) that there are bigger radii in some areas, the splines have been finished differently, the core shaft is no thicker than spline cores to move stress away from spline routes which is an obvious stress raiser. And other subtle points. Was told by FAE guys that if these break then I had better buy a Tank Lara.

Hi Michele, did you get them sorted? Regards, Lara.

Now that is a good idea Jim, Who has ever heard of Margarine Snapping?

Hi Guys, Nice to see you are all interested, May I just point out a few things that made me go this route that some of you have missed. A. I have gone up in diameter, as the pics on D44 forum will show, my shafts are now 1.3" in dia, B. I can not run other axles as the regs here in Belgium will not allow it and I fail the MOT. C. I used KAM driveshafts after snapping a halfshaft within 2 minutes every time I drove off road. D. I snapped a KAM driveshaft every day I drove off road, Stub shafts were the strongest then I started breaking inner and rear shafts. E. Materials can make a massive difference in strength to a shaft (or anything) and just because it looks the same it doesn't mean it is! Heat treatment also makes a MASSIVE difference to the properties of steels. F. There are a lot of good shafts available on the open market but after having the trouble that I have I was not prepared to risk any more "stories" of other peoples unbreakable shafts, I have a true 360ft/lbs of torque and an auto box, this is quite a bit but nothing outrageous, other people quote more and have no problems with shafts. Either I have a problem with my driveline or someone is grossly over estimating their power outputs? G. The strongest material available for the purpose of driveshafts is "Maraging 300" (S162) it costs in stock form 1500 pounds for the length needed to make 4 landrover shafts, add onto that the special Ageing process needed to harden them when finished and shot peening as you have noticed, and then add the machining costs and you have very expensive shafts, But the best available. H. Maraging 300 is roughly 30% stronger in its finished form than HYTUF, (Maxidrive shafts are HYTUF) I am not knocking HYTUF but on my rig I want the best regardless of cost. I. I have spoken to Dave at Ashcrofts and he tells me that in the past he also has made shafts in Maraging 300, however my shafts are different to Ashcroft shafts as my CVs are also larger. He told me after I had ordered my shafts anyway. (he also said that they were terribly expensive) J. Via internal contacts at one of the top F1 teams I was also privy to their top-secret heat treatment process that they had developed for their Maraging 300 driveshafts, this should also make sure that my expensive material is used to the best of its ability. (But it all costs in some little way) K. The long spline is as stated before to enable KAM to use their own lockers, they have actually made this shorter on their latest shafts and I have not only done away with the long spline but also had the shafts re-designed by said F1 guys on their FEA software. Hopefully all I will ever need to change now are the standard (heavy fused) KAM front outer shafts, these take 5 minutes to change. HOPEFULY Lara.

Go with the Michelins, a truly wonderful tyre. Lara,

Talk to Devon 4x4 they have kinked arms in 1.5inch dia bar so uprate your arms and kink them and cost about 120 pounds a pair. So cheap it's not worth going to the metal stockest to buy the material Lara.

Hellllllllllllllllllloooooo theeeeeer I like these new Smilies. Lara.