Challo

Thank you Robert. So I basically need to locate an ignition fed live?

Hi, the following is not Land Rover related so feel free to delete. I am currently fitting a PSA XU7D Engine into a Citroen Dispatch (gotta 110 Defender also). It originally had a DW8 engine (basically newer version of N/A XUD with emmisions and basic ECU) but that died. I didn't want to replace with another DW8 as i find them sluggish and thirsty. Well its certainly been challenging installing the XUD as it came from a Citroen BX! Have had to fabricate engine mounts, acquire and fabricate mounts for a belt driven vacuum pump. Clock turbo to clear steering rack. Fabricate a hybrid power steering and alternator system from various cars. Motivation was that a few people have said it can't be done. Me being an awkward Sod had to prove em wrong. Got the thing going at the weekend but it won't stop.Have to strangle or stall it to stop. I have a new stop solenoid on the way, and this is where i need help. Obviously the wiring loom is a mutation and i am not too familiar how stop solenoids operate. Finally the question... The feed to the stop solenoid, does 12V supply cut fuel or lack of 12 V supply cut the fuel?

http://www.defender2.net/forum/post145843.html Think same or similar vehicle has been on Devon 4x4 forum

Check this out http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thread-Norwegian-OM606-build?page=6

Hi, i've been using plastic BB pellets for about 3 years now. I used to have 265/75/16 Greenway hard rider, big macho hairy chest tyres. When traditionally balanced they had over 100g of weight and i experienced wobbles at 55mph. I put 250g into carcase and removed traditional weights and wobble disapearred. On BFG AT 235/85/16 i used 200g of pellets. Now on GG TR 235/85/16 using 175g and both have worked well. Hope this helps. Chris.

Will try that and report back. Thanks for the advice, it's appreciated.

I'm thinking bad new turbo but can't understand the excessive oil pressure. Oil is leaking from the sump and cyclone breather, where it never did before. Any ideas? Suppose I could check the new turbo feed and drain pipes are hollow, though they aren't britpart.

Did the head gasket and timing belt last spring and thats been fine til the last week. Turbo i completed yesterday, its actually burning loads of oil. When i finished work i noticed there is a big puddle of oil under tail pipe. Downpipe now covered in oil. Massive plumes of white/ blue smoke. Thinking remove turbo, timing case, head and sump n go from there. Brilliant timing as its below zero here now, no garage to work in... We must be insane masochists running these things... All builds character though.

Help required please, 1996 300tdi defender. Last week had a bad rattle off idle that worsened as revs increased. Also a scraping under load/ boost. Rattle sounded to come from head/ timing casing but not 100%. Changed head gasket and timing casing gaskets, pulleys, idlers, belt last spring and that's been fine since. The scraping to me sounded like the turbo shaft bearing had collapsed causing it to grind on the housing. Managed to get a secondhand turbo and have installed that this weekend with new feed and return pipes. Primed turbo with oil. Also removed intercooler and all pipes, swilled out with petrol then blown out with air line. Also removed injectors, cleaned then and fitted with new seals. Right took it for a spin and its absolutely billowing massive clouds of white smoke and turbo is whistling under load/boost. Came home n checked all hoses and took it for another spin. Same. So I had a proper look with engine off and running. Tail pipe has a coating of oil. Oil is dribbling out of sump which didn't before and pretty fast. Fair bit of oil at back of block deck, cylinder 4. Oil bubbling from around top of cyclone breather. Worst of all, oil dribbling down studs and flange of down pipe but no sign of oil above, on the turbo. So I am thinking excessive oil pressure and maybe a faulty turbo. Still got some petrol left, very tempted.... Opinions greatly appreciated

Yup I've had similar experience but at the other end of that cable http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79270 When I replaced it I went the more direct route and avoided wrapping around the head. I used tube conduit, heat shrunk at either end covered by spiral conduit. Belt and braces method. Also doubled up on starter earth, ran one cable to chassis n one battery. Hope this helps. Oh by the way, the cable worked cheaper to buy heavy duty starter cables rather that cable off the roll.

Yup I am very experienced and highly qualified at putting my foot in it! Not known for tact either lol No offence meant CJ1

Sorry to be pedantic, but in your other current post, you state that you cannot afford new inner wings at the moment. Surely inner wings for for a Discovery 1 are cheaper that a Discovery 2 automatic vehicle?

300tdi and 200tdi heads were tested between 1.9 and 2.1 bar as a roughly machined casting. That's only head gasket face and datum points machined. Hope this helps

Mine is also worktop, I paid £20 for a 5 metre length because its damaged. Bolted the vice over the damage and fitted some spare quadrant beading where it meets the wall. I used some 4 inch fence posts for legs I had leftover from decking and fencing garden. Bought some planed timber for the shelf. At the moment I am making a cabinet out of scrap wood I've accumulated over the years. Idea is to make some space to store junk and get rid of wood at the same time.

Sorry to hijack the post. Interested to know how the isolation turret ring is in use? Any better than standard turret ring? Is it RBC100111? Sorry for all the questions.

I have bought a few bits from them and found them very helpful and honest. They even offered to deliver free and I'm about 8 miles away. Strange thing was, spoke to someone on the phone a couple of times to arrange collection. Turned out it was the owners 14 year old son, very efficient though.

Sorry for the delay in replying. I think it'd be much easier to use a mazda gearbox if possible. Otherwise it means Fettling input and output ends in order to fit. The gearbox I was referring to is from a Cdi 220 and this mates up to the OM605. By the way your website is very useful, used it loads. If ever we meet up I owe you a few beers!!!

Check the throttle cable. I had similar problem and it turned out to be the locknut for the cable at the injection pump end had failed.

To be honest I would not go with R380. Had my 300tdi 110 about 4 years now and it's on it's 2nd R380 and 2nd LT230 also 300tdi isn't too healthy. When these finally give up the ghost my thoughts are Mercedes OM605 Mercedes Manual 6 speed gearbox mated to an Ashcroft LT230. The point I'm trying to make is the earlier gearbox is probably less likely to be built to a price. I know this from personal experience as I worked at the Foundry in Leeds that cast 300tdi heads, 200tdi, TD5 heads, V8 heads and block and TCIE heads and Freelander V6 blocks. The V8 block and head and 300tdi head dies were all badly worn so when the die closes there was movement. This led to a percentage being out of tolerance and also issues with wall thickness. We requested new dies or re-furbing of dies to rectify this but they would not release funding. So we requested more testing, larger percentage x-rayed and chopped up to examine internal structure. Unfortunately same answer. Disappointing to say this but I will be getting rid of engine and gearbox when they expire, even though the head has my stamp on it! Hope this helps

Hi Jeff, How about the sellers of eBay item number 251253879227 they may be able to approach their suppliers to sort you a set out. Failing that,it is possible, as stated above to get a locksmith to rekey them for you. Trouble will be finding a locksmith able. I was a locksmith about 20 years ago and I did rekey a Land rover ignition. Hope this helps Chris.

Howdo Have you considered ceramic coating on exhaust manifold? Just had a browse on Zircotec website and it states that exhaust temps are reduced by 30%. Got a feeling it ain't cheap though as no prices are listed. If you have to ask . . .

On my 300tdi Defender ignition switch is as follows:- Terminal 2 = thick brown Terminal 3 = thick white Terminal 4 = white/orange Terminal 5 = white/red Hope this helps Chris

Thanks for ideas. Had a tinker this aft. The starter relay is fixed to the bottom of the fuse box above the transmission tunnel. It is yellow in colour and part number is YWB10027. It is the relay located nearest the clutch pedal. Have removed a redundant alarm and associated wiring and re-connected immobiliser loom. Have now found if I remove the starter relay whilst the engine is running, the starter motor disengages. Swapped with identical relay next to it and identical results. Ran out of time at that point. So now I am thinking isolate each wire individually until fault ceases then trace that wire hopefully to the cause of the fault. Cheers Chris

Cheers Ralph, I'll give that a try and report back. Thanks

Was thinking re-do earth from starter solenoid to starter mounting to block then another earth from same stud to chassis to earth. Then if no joy wire ignition to a temporary spare switch to crank. Then if still no luck immobiliser or starter relay? Which is starter relay If there is one? Thanks again Cheers Chris