Challo

Hi Could you please tell me what the double spring set up is like partially and unladen? Thinking about going down this route on my 110. Was thinking td5 rears with helper springs inside. Is this viable on a 300tdi? Thanks in advance Chris

He has now posted YouTube links of them in action. Looks quite effective, but for how long? Sounds like it's taking a couple of mm of Tarmac with it along with the snow.

Just asked him to post a video. Can't wait to see it in action. So when his product pops your tyre, mangles your bumper, bends your front wing, scratches your wheel and rips out your brake pipes and probably cuts through the odd wiring loom, do you reckon badboy will recompense for the damage?

Had a puncture on 1 of the macho s last Monday 28th nov. M6 bolt through centre of tyre with head on outside. By the time I Finished work all tyre fitters were shut, so I had a cunning plan.... Broke bead with a spade n 2 screwdrivers then tapped bolt out a bit, put ptfe round threads on outside then screwed it home. Then put ptfe on bolt on inside of tyre added a washer and a nut and tightened. Not gone down since! So my second cunning plan is, as these Tyres will be retired soon , I am gonna create my own studded Tyres on a budget!

To be honest, the macho s were faultless last winter. I live in the pennines where there are steep hills every way in and out of the village. No dramas at all, even pulled an RAC transit up a steep hill effortlessly. Gearbox was another story though .....

Hi, i had macho 265/75 16 on my 110 last winter. The winter before i had BFG A/T 235/85 16. I was very surprised, but the macho s performed much better despite having slightlyless tread depth. My theory was the tread blocks have large gaps between them. Therefore less surface area = more pressure. Hope this helps.

I recently bought a rs500 cosworth intercooler from eBay for about £65 delivered. That's brand new but with a damaged bracket, it needed removing anyways. Just fits between wings on my defender. Going to get hoses and pipes from apmotorstore.co.uk as they seem reasonable and can supply pipes any length, then they put a bead on the ends. Will be fitting an egt gauge first though.

As above plus a full pallet of milk chocolate hob nobs

Changed the gearbox and transfer box as one unit earlier this year.(Whilst snowing) On me own, on tarmac drive, without an engine lift or trans jack, just used 3 ratchet straps and 1 recovery strap wrapped through roll cage. Certainly built character though.

Right, let me just set the record straight before the thought police get in a kerfuffle. This is a Land Rover forum and not a Triallers forum, correct? Personally I use my "Amazing Truck" for work social and a bit of overlanding. I have never been to Trials or really encountered that type of vehicle before. You must admit seeing it through my eyes it does look slightly amusing. But now you've pointed it out I see this will be an effective tool for it's purpose with very good power to weight ratio. So let's not take things too serious and start slinging mud over a bit of banter. At the end of the day this is a unified Land Rover forum for folk that use their vehicles for a variety of tasks and hey let's all chill out eh?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-V8-offroad-Buggy-Rangerover-modified-trials-/170721284001?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27bfc80fa1#ht_500wt_950 Thoughts? Mine are waste of a V8 and looks like something out of a kids story book.

Yep as Reb says it transmits heat from the transmission. I presume the x brake transmits less heat due to having less volume of steel. And after working on cars for 23 years, I do know how to set up a handbrake!

Swit swoo That's bang tidy!

I've also read a few people on this forum, have said the x brake significantly reduces heat to the seatbox rather than the standard transmission drum.

I reckon the wrap would be fine with the stainless as the heat will evaporate any moisture. I was gonna get something like a turbo heat mat to fix to the underside of the seatbox. Something like eBay 400253946349, sorry can't do a link on my phone.

Hi, personally i think i would use a heat shield or some exhaust wrap. I've found a lot of heat radiates into the cab from the transmission brake and the exhaust. At worst on long runs in hot weather it can make the seatbox darned hot. My thinking is that you'll be sending more heat towards the trans brake, which is where the bulk of the heat seems to come from. I've just got some hoses and exhaust wrap from http://www.auto-performance.co.uk/ they were helpful and reasonable and i think they post F.O.C. Hope this helps. Chris

Yeah remove cables from box, then remove the air intake grille on the n/s wing. Take out the ducting that fits under the wing from the intake grille. Then it's 2 bolts on the bulkhead just above passenger footwell and 2 nuts at back of heater box then it should come out. I used silicone when rebuilding mine. Hope this helps. Chris

Aren't the injector washers copper rather than brass?

Heater Plugs would be my first method of attack.

Changed mine last year and used cutting discs, drills and hammers (various) to remove it fromits housing. Bought mine from Simon Services in Wakefield for about £14ish and he kindly pressed new one in FOC. Recently have been getting a lot of banging when taking up drive and when changing gear and thought my rear axle was goosed. Changed A-frame bushes this weekend and found a frame joint has loosened quilte a lot, so fitted an extra washer then castlated nut. All ok now but wondered why it loosened so much?

How'd you get new one in without a press?

I had a leak earlier this year, which I thought was coming from the bulkhead. Eventually traced it to the throttle cable, a grommet was missing, but an easy fix nonetheless.

What area do you live in ?

How about Pirtek? They could fabricate you one in 10 mins if you take em your remains. Pretty reasonable last time I used em too

Hi, the holes refer to the thickness of the gasket. Technically you are supposed to measure protrusion of pistons from the block using a dti gauge. If you don't have access to one of these and you are leaving the pistons in situ and not having the head skimmed, I would replace with the same thickness of gasket. Or replace like with like. Hope this helps, Chris.