monkie

I also just loosen them and then torque back up again on a service just keep them moving so they don't sit there for years and years. Also an idea to loosen and wiggle the injectors once a year too as they can be a pain to remove if they get stuck.

Do you know how they check? Is it by measuring the fitted bearings and comparing to the cam or fit the cam and then check the degree of binding?

I can't get that link to work

Yes, but it amazes me how often a quick trip to the shops for bread, milk and toothpaste turns into a trolley full

Trying to get my head round this... Drives out to the shops empty handed. Does the shopping. WALKS back with hands full of shopping (presumably thinking "I wish I'd have driven, the land rover would have been really handy for this lot") That is quite specialist, way out of my depth

Better that way round than your boss calling you as you are sat in a pool drinking and slurring your words down the phone to your boss explaining "they must have got the rota wrong"

On the subject of motorised mobility scooters... Anyone who is unititated to the world of Colin Furze should have a look on YouTube for his videos, very entertaining. He did a 4 parter on how to make a mobility scooter go 60mph, here is the end result. Skip to 3:24 for the test drive.

Thank you for that. What does the "2D" mean in terms of the size of the helicoil insert?

I would guess they put the pulley on but failed to correctly align with the key (as you say), and then took Land Rover special tool number 1 to apply force to push it on which has totally deformed the key.

^^^This is my concern; but surely the helicoil follows the threaded path you created when you ran the tap provided in the kit through the hole which will automatically align them?

Yes, sorry I wasn't clear. How I read your response was that you did say you has seen it done but that you hadn't done it yourself. My concern is that the burr left by the tang on the top insert would prevent a good alignment with the bottom insert. I think I might try it on some scrap first

I've not heard of those Richard. It seems to me that although they all are based around inserting something that in one form or another is itself threaded to accept the bolt; they look to me to require different amounts of metal to be removed to accept the inserts. I'm nervous of removing too much metal in the block and causing a weakness somewhere. Probably over thinking it, but I don't want to bugger the block up of all things!

Could it have been the insert turning?

I'm not sure the inserts I have will be long enough. Is it possible to stack them? I don't want to bugger this up?

Thank you for that Link. You had me worried for a minute but luckily these are the inserts I have:

This is very interesting and sounds plausible, I tried to get a video clip of the movement I'm talking about but the movement is so slight you couldn't tell on the video so I didn't bother posting up on here.

I have the kit from screw fix. https://www.screwfix.com/p/helicoil-eco-thread-repair-kit-m12-x-1-5mm-13-pieces/798FR?tc=YS1&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAjwgb6IBhAREiwAgMYKRvWWmgd7cpu9n1wsxhn6tvkD85MrzVrBASfjfDPS49GJ9_SbdtwQ7xoCM_sQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I don't really know. I have put a couple into aluminium on the ladder frame and timing case and they seem much better than a tapped hole straight into aluminium (they are a dizzy 25Nm torque). The block is obviously cast iron so I would have thought they'd be even better into that... But I don't really know. Anyone have any experience of this?

Thanks Ralph. I just don't know what to expect with stretch bolts and angle tightening - I'm simply just used to having a torque figure. This morning (with all the bolts apparently tightened down as per the manual) I applied gentle pressure anti-clockwise (just using a 3/8" ratchet) to see if any were loose. 17 was properly loose. Most didn't budge (as I would expect) but a couple did seem to want to move a tiny fraction (nothing significant) - 3, 10 and 16 from memory. Is this normal for angle tighten or should none of them show any sign of budging at all with just gentle pressure? PS - I won't forget to use the tap for the helicoil

My thoughts are: Head off (obviously) Gaffa tap to mask off the rest of the block to stop metal shavings getting into the engine Use a drill guide (like the one below) to drill out the damaged thread insert a helicoil Run a tap through the remaining threads to be double sure and blow out with compressed air Refit with new gasket and re-use the new bolts (I think its okay to use them upto 5 times) Does this seem a sensible plan? I have an M12 Helicoil kit and I have ordered a new head gasket and this piece to drill straight:

Been out this morning to discover it is indeed a stripped thread on bolt 17 on this picture below. 🤬 Atleast I know why the previous head gasket had failed as I remember this one seemed loose when I undid it.

Been busy at work so not had much chance to work on the 200Tdi rebuild until today. I have a snag regarding tightening down the cylinder head bolts (brand new from Turners). When I was stripping the engine down and undid the cylinder head bolts I noticed some were very tight and some were noticeably not so tight. When the block was bare I cleaned it up and ran a tap through all the threads to clean them up. Today I put a new (Elring) head gasket on, lightly oiled the new bolts and then tightened them down (in sequence) to 40Nm followed by 60'. All fine up to this point. Then the final tighten to another 60' and I noticed that 1 or 2 did not feel as tight as the others but I didn't want to go further than the 60' angle. Then on one of the bolts (near where the old gasket had been blowing) the 60' final angle was very much not tight at all. Obviously I'm frusted as I'm going to take the head off (wasted a new gasket, but oh well) and want to look at the threads and run a tap through them again. Before I do anything, does anyone have any thoughts or advice on what's happening? (I'm worried about a stripped thread in the block) EDIT: I'm looking on the brightside, at least I can now explain why the previous head gasket had failed.

The earlier 19J engines had 2 breather hoses off the filler cap. Was this seal a genuine land rover part or was it another make such as Britpart?

Does your engine look like the one in the picture below rather than a later Tdi? If so, it should be a nice fit. Not too tight but not rattling round.

Go easy with the pullers. Have you tried a bit of heat and gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet? I think I got my 200Tdi pulley off by carefully using a decorators scraper to separate from the damper. It was much easier than the 19J.