monkie

I don't think this picture has come out very well but hopefully gives you an idea of the fade. I sprayed the doors about 2 years ago and brushed the body about 1 month ago, both with the same paint from paintman. The pros are it is cheap and easy to do at home, the brush finish is surprisingly good. The cons, it fades quickly.

That's saved me some money and effort. Thanks! 👍

I'd love to respray using 2k but I think it's out of my DIY at home scope, so I've always used the coach enamel from paintman paints. I have found that it fades very quickly, although I have achieved a very acceptable finish by brush which saves all the faff associated with spraying. What is the wisdom on the raptor clear coat on top of the coach paint?

Yep, but adding all up to the £ hundreds I've already sent to Turners it was very annoying, plus the sheer stupidity of not checking despite feeling resistance when tightening the screw down. Not my brightest moment for sure

Very timely thread this. I made a stupid mistake that cost me £40 and set me back abit with the 200Tdi rebuild. I was putting the tappet units into the block using a blob of grease to hold the little followers into the slide. First one of them dropped but bounced of the camshaft and out the inspection hatch onto the floor (close call). Then it did it again but this time fell right into the block (yes the bottom end is complete🤬). Fortunately the engine was on a stand so I rotated the block twice and it dropped out. At that point I should have taken a break and come back to it later on; but no, I carried on frustrated that such a simple job was being a pain. I thought I was being clever by rotating the engine on it's side on the stand so this time the follower couldn't drop into the block. All 8 in, no problems. But then I started to clamp down the locator screws, 4 went in no issue. The 5th one I felt a bit of resistance but thought it was a just a bit of a dirty thread so I continued to apply some torque (only 14 Nm), then snap. The screw broke off in block and I realised the brass slider had slid down and I was squeezing it with the locator screw hence it felt a bit tight. I had deformed the brass slider in the tappet body. I managed to drill out and extract the snapped screw and push out the slider but damaged the tappet holder in doing so. I had to by a complete unit from Turners which came to £40 with the VAT and shipping. Lesson learned - don't rush and make a series of stupid mistakes that increase in stupidity! I have to say though, Turners provide an excellent service. I ordered the unit yesterday afternoon and it arrived by lunch time today - no blue boxes either.

Consider your absolute top budget for a land rover. Save some back for repairs (brakes, bushes, suspension). Save a bit more back for a good service (oils, filters, cam belt if not sure when it was last done, coolant, brake fluid). Save some more back for any modications you might want to do. Then decide what you have left to spend for buying the vehicle. An older one in good condition is a better buy than a newer one in okay condition. Don't overlook the tyres. A full set of tyres worth having can set you back a lot of money.

Yes, me too. Looks interesting.

Based on my experience of Wipac LED pack so far, I totally recommend them as a good value upgrade.

The third biggest advantage is they are a sealed unit. Mine have been fitted a few months now and despite the rain we've had, I don't have a lense cap complete with aquatic wildlife in their own pond.

Hmm yet again, great advice and experience on here. I had noticed some cheap ones on ebay look a bit naff. I will check out those Mikalor. It's the subjectivity of the screw type that is making me think of options. I never know if I'm over or under tightening the Jubilee ones.

Which type of hose clip do people think is best for coolant hoses? I've always used Jubilee clips but not always found them to be great (even genuine jubilee). What's the collective view on the spring type clip? (I'd get the proper tool for the spring type if I do go down that route).

Fantastic. Please keep the pictures coming.

Good plan, you'll struggle with no jack! Don't forget to chuck in a wheel brace too

The one I have from Turners still has a protective coating on which I think is making it look a bit worse than it really is.

Never assume just because a part is new that it will work particularly blue box parts. Yes you can upgrade to the relay like in the tdi fitted land rovers. There is a thread on this forum somewhere if you search for it. You will need a main feed from the positive bus, wire to the dash warning lamp, earth, supply to the glow plugs, white/red from the ignition switch and a white supply from the ignition switch IIRC.

On the 19J position 1 should be the position where the circuits controlled by the ignition key come on such as heater, indicators, radio etc. Position 2 is the one where you manually hold it and count for however long you think is needed for how cold it is. Position 3 is start. Glow plugs (brown/red wire) should be on in position 2 only on models with no heater plug relay. Thinking about your sub 12v readings, is that because the engine is being cranked at the time you took the readings?

Right, using your terminology... Brown heavy is the permanent unfused supply to the switch from the positive bus on the starter motor. White red fine is all good as this goes to the starter relay to turn the engine over when the key is moved to the start position. It should be off in all other positions. Your white heavy needs to be live in positions 1, 2 and 3 as it supplies unfused power to circuits that are essential such as the stop solenoid on the fuel injection pump and some of the fuses for other stuff that are live with the ignition on. Your brown red heavy needs to be live in position 2 only as this is the glow plug feed. I understand white black to be the rear window heater but that sounds wrong. This terminal by my reckoning should be live with the key in position 1 only (ie engine running) for things like the radio and heater fan. In fact this wire could be to the radio if fitted..?

My delivery from Turners has arrived this morning. Here is the 200Tdi crank pulley supplied by them. The seal surface has a fine finish to it. The teeth feel smooth but look similar to your first picture.

That's interesting, I know the cranks are different part numbers but there is a shoulder in the 200Tdi as well. You can see it in my last picture. Maybe it doesn't sit flush up against it in a 200Tdi?

Who cares, that will be the chauffeur's problem to solve

This is what the back of my switch looks like on my 1988 110 with a 19J engine. Be careful though as I think @westernsays his switch for a 1989 110 (originally a 19J) is a bit different to mine.

I think you have a couple of issues here. 1. You should be seeing more than 9v.are you getting just 9v at the battery terminals? 2. You might have the ignition switch wired up incorrectly. Just connect the brown 12v wire up for now then with your multimeter see what terminal becomes live as you move the key to the different positions. Basically you should expect all terminals to be off with the key out. Then different ones become live with the key in the different positions... I have a post on this somewhere on my re wire thread. The brown/red wire should be connected to the terminal on the back of switch which becomes live as you hold the key in the pre-heat position.

I thought this would be helpful to share for others doing an overhaul. So I took some pictures to show you. I have completely stripped down a Defender spec 200Tdi engine for overhaul. I wanted to replace the crankshaft Bush or spigot (LFB50050) but it was in tight and wouldn't drop out nor was I able to get it out with my finger and I didn't want to apply heat to the end of the crankshaft. I have read that you can pack the end of the crankshaft with grease then place a tight fitting cylindrical object and hit with a hammer to hydraulically push the Bush out. This comes with a warning that you might cover yourself in grease and it will leave a mess behind. I then read (possibly on here) that an old trick is to use bread (yes, ordinary bread from the kitchen cupboard) in a similar manner but it won't leave a greasy mess. Sounded too good to be true so in the name of science I thought I'd try it. Success! I put bread in the end of the crank, turned it up vertically resting on a piece of wood then just a few firm taps with a hammer onto a reduction adapter that I didn't mind hitting and it moved up and out. Quick and easy, so hear are the photos.

I think you've hit the nail on the head there. I've had to use recovery once for a fuel filter problem letting air into the fuel system. It took me ages to get recovered home. For the sake of a 10 minute job I could have done it myself with some simple tools. I also carry a light and hi vis jacket. Same goes if you have a puncture (provided you can pull over to a safe place to carry out the change)

Ah right, I wondered if there was 300/200tdi confusion. I got a rebuild kit for a 200tdi from Turners engineering. It contains the valve and spring as part of the kit