monkie

Quite doable but Western might be a touch deaf doing that mileage in a tdi powered defender

^^^That is a very comprehensive post. Follow that advice and you will enjoy owning your Defender.

I heard somewhere that one of the many reasons women generally live longer then men is that on the whole they will talk about things and go to the Dr rather than ignore it or wait for a bit to see if it goes away. One of my friends wife saw blood in her stools so went straight to the Dr and insisted on an emergency appointment. Cut a long story short she did have bowel cancer but lucky caught it in the early stages. She is still recovering from surgery but fingers crossed she should be okay as it hadn't spread anywhere and they were able to remove it all.

Yep, me too. This is why I like an actual number rather than no light/light.

Yes agreed, but before going to that trouble I think getting an actual oil pressure reading is wise to see what pressure you are actually getting. If it does read low, then time to get at the oil pump and relief valve.

Seems a bit odd as the oil pressure should be high when initially started. I think the best thing to do is get an actual reading. Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and fit it to get actual readings just to absolutely rule out a sender/wiring issue of some sort.

There's an important difference here. Its a good thing to clean your home on a regular basis (Covid should have shown us this) and kill pathogens that might be lurking around on surfaces. Living in a clean environment isn't a problem: Irresponsible use of antibiotics however when your body could fight off what should be a trivial infection is another thing entirely. Its not you that becomes immune to antibiotics, its the bacteria that become resistant and when that happens we have a serious problem with life threatening infections.

Wow, I didn't see that coming. As I read it I thought you were going to say you set your land rover on fire and burnt yourself. Sepsis is serious stuff. I hope you make a full recovery soon. I doubt you'll be allowed to work on your land rover again!! Thanks for posting your story as a warning.

Wiring can be daunting but planning is key. I rewired my 1988 110 earlier this year. I found that breaking each wiring circuit down to individual components and drawing a table of what the wire colour codes were really helped me understand what was going on. I have never worked on a series vehicle so I can't comment on the individual circuits but my advice would be to check your wiring against the circuit diagram very carefully and triple check your earths are good. The best upgrade I made to my wiring was a nice thick earth cable to each corner of the 110 going straight back to the battery to give me a reliable earth point at each corner. I learnt so much about my wiring by doing it myself and getting some things wrong but it was ultimately part of my learning process.

Amen to that

I enjoy keeping them on the phone so they aren't calling other people. I have a couple of tactics: When they spell stuff out for you to type into your PC I deliberately miss hear what they say and repeat the wrong thing back to them which causes them no end of frustration. When they ask me if I am on my PC and what can I see, I start to explain that I am on a "gentlemens art appreciation website" and then start describing what that is. They usually don't know how to deal with that and wastes a bit of their time.

That is a damn fine specimen there.

Once you know a few simple rules electrics on land rovers aren't that complex. Black is always an earth and can be a big source of problems if not earthing reliably. A solid colour is usually a live supply to switch (supply can be permanent live unfused (brown), permanent live fused (purple), ignition on unfused (white) or ignition on fused (green)). Wires from a switch or gauge to accessory carry a stripe to tell you where they go. The gauges are powered by a fused ignition on live (green). They are earthed (black) and they have a wire to a sender (coloured trace). Something weird going on here. You should have a green wire to the gauge, a black wire the back of the gauge body, a green with black trace. Looking at the sender you should have the green with black trace wire from the gauge, white with grey trace which is for the low fuel warning dash lamp and a black earth wire. Check those earths first. Buy a new sender (they aren't expensive) and then wire the gauge to it out the vehicle and you can check the gauge function as you move the sender float arm.

IIRC the 12v supply goes to the guage then out the other side down the wire (green with black trace) to the sender, then out the sender to earth. The other wire on the sender (white with slate trace) is for the low fuel warning light. If you disconnect the wires from the sender, take a note/picture first so you don't muddle them up.

Could be a gauge issue, sender issue or wiring issue. Weird electrical issues often turn out to be earth faults. Always worth double checking the earth to the gauge and gauge body first. Maybe the sender float is snagged on a baffle in the tank. You can try some knocks on the tank from Land Rover special tool #1 (hammer) to see if that has any effect. If the above doesn't help; pull the sender and gauge from the vehicle. Wire the sender to the gauage, provide a 12V supply to the guage. Earth the sender, gauge and gauge body. Move the sender float to empty, half and full observing the needle on the gauge. My top tip: As removing the sender is an awkward job - get a spare sender (PRC8463 for diesel 110). you can then perform the test leaving your sender in situ. If the issue is elsewhere then you don't have to do anything with the sender. If it is the sender, then you have the spare good to go. Having had this issue myself; I always reset my trip milage when I fill the tank so I know when I am expecting to run low despite any lies from the gauge. EDIT: Obvious point to make, but... Now you know the tank is full, drive round a bit for 150 miles before attempting to remove the sender so you don't make an expensive mess!

I think I was too busy getting a hernia lifting that Salisbury rear axle into the back of my 110

Interesting information. I have never seen a 90/110 with the old style doors and windows.

Is this an example of a Land Rover Stage One V8? I know very little about them but it looks a really nice Land Rover you have there. I've copied and pasted below from Wikipedia: (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_series) From 1979 until 1985, the Stage 1 was built using some of the same components as the Range Rover and 101 Forward Control, such as the LT95 gearbox and 3.5-litre Rover V8 petrol engine. The engine was detuned to 91 hp (68 kW) from the 135BHP of the contemporary Range Rover. The vehicle came about because the competing Toyota Land Cruiser and Nissan Patrol vehicles, fitted with powerful and durable 6-cylinder engines, were making considerable inroads into the market, particularly in Australia and Africa. A V8-powered Land Rover with the Range Rover's constant 4WD system was a considerable technological advancement on the part-time 4WD and 4-cyl engines of previous variants, though the Stage 1 still used the Series III's leaf springs. The Stage 1 was normally available only in LWB 109-inch (2,800 mm) form but 24 examples were built with the SWB 88 in (2,235 mm) wheelbase.[6] "Stage 1" refers to the first stage of investment by the British Government in the company to improve the Land Rover and Range Rover product offerings to counter the aforementioned market challenges, and were a transitional development on the way to the coil-sprung Land Rover 90 and 110. The use of the Range Rover engine and drive train made it the only Series III vehicle to have permanent four-wheel drive. Land Rover Stage One V8 in Spain Most of the V8 Stage 1 vehicles were exported, as the larger engine was not really sought-after by UK owners, for whom the 4-cyl 2286cc engine seemed to be sufficient and somewhat more economical. A small number may have been used by the British armed forces. However, the New Zealand Army bought 566 Stage 1 V8 Land Rovers which entered service over the period 1982 - 1986. The New Zealand Army standardised on the type, retiring the previous mixture of British- and Australian-built 88" and 109" Series 2 variants. All the V8 vehicles were 109" configuration and were supplied with a plastic-coated canvas canopy with bodywork in Deep Bronze Green. All had 24v electrics with Fitted For Radio (FFR) vehicles having a larger 100 amp generator supplied by Milspec Manufacturing Pty Ltd of Australia. Variants included a hard-top fitted vehicle used for specialist signals tasks (some of which had dual rear wheels for lateral stability to counteract the weight of additional equipment carried). There was also a white-painted 300 TDI conversion of approximately 20 vehicles, including a hard top and locally-devised disc brake conversion, for peacekeeping service with New Zealand's UNPROFOR contingent in Bosnia-Herzegovina from 1994 to 1996. The retirement of New Zealand V8 Stage 1 vehicles started from 2000, with the last examples taken out of service in 2006 once sufficient numbers of the Pinzgauer replacement vehicle became available. The vehicles were sold off in a series of disposal auctions, and many are now cherished by private owners in New Zealand.

The best thing to do is to remove the gauge and sender from the vehicle and wire them up to the battery remembering to earth the gauge casing. Ensure the gauge reads full, half and empty correctly so you know all works as it should do. Then when you reinstall ensure the sender isn't being obstructed so it can travel freely and the wiring and terminals are all in good condition with good earths.

I think someone should advise him to fit an autobox.

I think he is meaning the colour of a rusty chassis rather than the type of polybush.

Then your chassis will go rusty

I've always used the Valeo HD kit and never had any issues. https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-200tdi-300tdi-clutch-kit-valeo/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwLKFBhDPARIsAPzPi-LGfhxyyY0orL6qCe1INlcAy-w5c26blRj4yDxzH108EEs_mOFfGlYaAlzIEALw_wcB

Also worth checking the guage it self is properly earthed as that will affect the reading. Before you fit the sender in the tank, wire it up and turn the ignition on so that you can see when the float is at the bottom the gauge reads empty and then check the half full and full positions so you know for sure the sender is giving the correct signal for the gauge. That way you conclusively know there isn't a mismatch problem between gauge, sender and wiring.

Indeed. My old fuse box was so bad (badly wired, badly modified, badly aged) that some fuses would simply drop out of place if going over bumps with a degree of enthusiasm