sierrafery

Hi, the best is to remove the gauge from the old pump and replace it if that worked OK, you'll have just to fit it and solder the wires

Thanks, i think you are right, Merry Christmas

yes, i observed that, do you think that it fits into the tank like the "real" pumps like WFX500070 cos it seems the same shape... my friend has erratic gauge movements too beside the low pressure so i thought to fit one of those older modell pumps instead of that expensive sh*t, get a plug from a scrapyard and give feed to it too...do you think it would work together with the WFX000181, cos that one looks like the secondary pumps on older modells? ...it's a real mess anyway

Thanks again, it's a shame how expensive that in tank sender can be while it's just an empty ''shell'' with a float , also some sellers are naming it ''pump'' which made me think it has some motor in it

much obliged for the answer, so that ''thing'' in the tank is just a gauge sender and a pick-up unit for the main pump without any activity? it has no motor in it?

Hi all, i need some help to help a friend, it's about a 2005 Td4 with the suplimentary pump behind the rear wheelarch, according to microcat only the WQB000020 pump would fit which is friggin expensive, anyone tried to fit a cheaper WFX500070 or WFX000200 instead? or at least can anyone enlight me what's the difference between them, the electric connector or what? , i'm confused

The Td5 fuel filter contains the return and low pressure circuits only so most of your stuff might have ended up in the tank by the return pipe, the HP feed goes directly from the pump to the head(FPR) and the in-tank pump ''sucks'' fuel from the tank ... you can't properly use that stuff on a Td5 unless you use some external pump for that fluid inserted in the FPR

Yes, it seems like fuel pump HP failure if you can still hear it buzzing, if no sound from it check the fuse and relay to rule them out and if they are good replace the pump, if you hear it running the only certain way to check it is to insert a gauge instead of the FT sensor in the FPR and measure pressure... the td5 can run with failed pump at low revs for long

check this out http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=804371&SPRACHE=EN if no joy click "back to navigation" on top and search more

You can find out EKA for the original BCU which was on the car from a main dealer based on ownership evidence, though is changeable with tester so there are chances to not work but usually it does cos to few are knowing how to change it

The remap has nothing to do with the BCU and for the mileage important is to not sync the odometer with the BCU only disable the odometer error warning and you;ll have what's on the odometer without any change

I have the feeling that you'll pay a fortune for somebody's incompetence, it's no way to not make the alarm/central locking to work with a bran new BCU as long as THE BCU WAS THE PROBLEM, aproper tester is used by somebody who knows what he's doing , a key specialist without dedicated D2 diagnostic software can't tell you that the car recognises the key or not, the specialist should have disarmed the immobiliser using EKA code then start to diagnose cos it might be the RF receiver at fault in the first place .... not good

There are 2 for SRS and one for seatbelt, the one for seatbelt is managed by the MFU and pretensioner's switch and the SRS ones by the instrument pack's internal circuit through a dedicated module and the airbag ECU, disconnecting the ECU will bring them on if the controll module is good cos that's how is conceived to work in the eventuality of SRS ECU failure of blown fuse or circuit interruption or something, the warning lamp controll module from the instrument pack is managing the bulb self test and if the system self test made by the ECU is passed it sends voltage on the earth path to the module to extinguish the warnings...the fact that they dont come on at all can be only bulb failure/missing/blanked or controll module failure(which means the whole instrument pack must be replaced unless you are some electronist genius to fix the module which is built in the PCB). see from page 128 here https://www.dropbox.com/s/1yd8eslck8440wg/Discovery%201%20MY95%20-%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual%20%28LJBEMENR95%202nd%20Edition%29.pdf?dl=0 or from 100 here https://www.dropbox.com/s/ejqzp07ihjuqi17/Discovery%201%20MY97%20-%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual%20%28LRL0077ENG%204th%20Edition%29.pdf?dl=0 depending on modell but the schemes are very alike, scroll upwards from the diagram and you'll see the description too

+1 for proper diagnosis with tester first, if no fault codes logged then it's almost certain that it's a fuel supply issue cos the fuel delivery system is not covered by diagnostics... though if the injector balances are all over the place it means that they try to compensate for low fuel pressure and the pump becomes suspect(provided there's no oil at the ECU red plug which means the injector harness must be replaced ASAP)... but there might be many other reasons fot that and without tester it's a guessing game and dependent of luck

No easy solution for that other than replaceing the interrupted heating element, it's not the most inspired design cos the elements are serial connection and if one is interrupted none will work, make sure that the plug which connects the two heating elements(between the cushion and squab) has good connection

Didn't you unplug accidentally the wategate modulator? ... check the pipes to it to be connected and not leaking, especially the one which goes up to the turbocharger wastegate valve cos that one could have been in the way, or it got hurt when you worked on the head cos that seems classic overboost symptom, it's about this http://www.discovery2.co.uk/wastegate.html

That ''rest down a couple of centimeters" should happen only if you open a door and the weight removed from the vehicle was heavy enough to induce an upward movement of the height sensor's arm as to make it send a signal to the SLABS ECU if you see what i mean... on very slight movement the sensor will not be triggered, put some heavy load in the boot and remove it then IMO you'll see that it will drop as before

Sorry, i missed the auto thing not that i dont know what i'm doing . i was just trying to help as usuall ... nobody's perfect

for the immobiliser see this, and get this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-V8-300tdi-Spider-Alarm-Immobiliser-Bypass-/151735436242?hash=item23542303d2 but if your central locking is the problem this will not solve it

Even though i cant figure out what this thing has to do with replacing a wheel speed sensor on a D2 i can tell you that you must go to a main dealer or to somebody with dedicated tester which communicates with the BECM to do that

Hi, it seems that the previous owner was schmuck enough to blank the warning ligts then... can you see the ABS, TC and HDC amber warnings(3 amigos) on ignition self test? ... if not remove the instrument pack and see if it's black tape on the display to hide them or not cos you should have the 3 amigos on ... then find somebody with a proper tester and read the fault codes stored in the ABS ECU... then you'll know what to do

Or more simple you can release the electric switch from the barrel addapt it somehow to the binnacle and turn it with a short flat screwdriver to crank then back one step to keep the engine running and back to 0 to stop if you see what i mean... you can improvise a kinda plastic ''handle'' to attach to it then you can turn it by hand through all it's positions as you wish

download this http://www.landy.ee/manuals/electricity/Disco_Elec.Troubleshooting%20Manual%20-%20LRL0077ENG%20(1997).pdf it has diagrams and everything

This particular issue is not about too large air gap cos the related fault code would bring the 3 amigos with it and it happens when the difference between one sensor's signal and the other 3 is out of a preset limit, in this case there's no fault code logged just a signal missbalance as the problematic signal is within accepted limits but it's ''assumed'' by the system as wheel slip being different than the other sensor on the same axle at the same vehicle speed which is calculated from all 4 sensor's average outputs... i've studied this system deeply believe me

NO, if you go for aftermarket you'll have to replace at least both on the same axle with same brand but better all of them or there might be troubles with the TC behaviour... see this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=96124 you can be lucky to not have problems but it's a risk, i've seen this symptom many times, even on my own and ended up replaceing all with wabco to have a perfectly working TC... that dealer is a schmuck IMO, there are both kind of wabco sensors available, long lead and short lead, different part numbers, depends how the car was originally fitted..also be aware that for intermittent sensor fault codes in most cases the hub is the problem cos there's a play in the reliuctor ring not the sensor