sierrafery

I was asking if these symptoms were with ignition on or off...cos if it was with ignition on the problem could be from the ignition feed, the radio needs a permannent feed and an ignition feed to work so will do the clock lighting...so even if the main feed and earths are good if the ignition feed makes tricks that's what happens

Did that happen with ignition on or off?

don't keep wondering, replace the injector loom ASAP, that's how it behaves with oil ingress and it can be worst if you dont change the loom

The EGR is still on?... oil at the ECU red plug?

The volumetric alarm if it became too sensitive can be disabled in BCU with tester too, not compulsory to unplug the sensors for that

Hi, the cruise control and horns can be related and as the horns are working with alarm the most suspect is the rotary coupler in the steering wheel, the front fogs are on different circuit, for these check fuse F3 in engine bay fusebox and if it's good remove relay R12 and bridge with a wire instead of terminals 30-87 of the relay(concentrate to not mix them, there's a scheme on the relay) and see if then the lamps are working or not...the light on the switch is working?

I can't comment on that just reiterate that ALL the alternators are made on the same principle, the fact that LR fitted it so as the air flow can affect it's individual cooling or not is not a problem of the alternator builder..., there are many cars fitted with bosch or denso alternators with transversal engine where the air flow or the vehicle's speed is not so relevant, if what you say it's really an issue IMO it should have been LR's job to make a deflector system or something to provide as cooler air as possible at the back of the alternator though... at least that's bow i see things using only my common sense not science

The alternator cooling setup is generic and well engineered the same for all alternators, the alternator manufacturers dont know(maybe even don't care) where the car's builder will put the alternator and they designed all of them to pull air through the rectifier first, the only way to blow "fresh" air through the rectifier first would be to put the fan behind it which doesnt override the fact that the air there is hot from the turbo, as said if we take into account the engine fan's flow this will blow air against the turbo partially protecting the alternator from it and maybe the air from the engine bay which is sucked through the alternator is colder than the air which would have passed through the hot winding, here's an explanation purely from the alternator benefit's point of view: http://www.cdxetextbook.com/electrical/chargStartLight/altCons/alternatorcoolfan.html

Maybe if we knew what kind of disco it is

here is the procedure:

as long as the pump remains primed, and if you'll follow your plan it would the small amount of air which gets unto the system will not be an issue, go for a harsh ride with much cornering and some bumps after that and the system will bleed itself

Don't give direct feed to the motors cos you might burn them as they have an internal potentiometer and the expected feed is below 12V all the pointed fuses above are good IMO the problem is within the switch: you should remove the switch put ohmeter where the blue/pink and red/orange wires were connected(pins 2-4) and see if you get those resistances by turning the switch through all the positions but if you get open circuit once or the ame as for 0 position on all then that's the problem if you see what i mean

my apologies, i missed that post when he said that purging had no effect, sorry

It seems more like injector washers issue unless it's the air bleed valve in the rear wheel side port of the filter head, it can't be ruled out only by replaceing it, google out WJN500110, next time at first start run a purging sequence on it(5 times throttle fully down then wait for the MIL to stop flashing, about 3 minutes) before you crank it and if it starts ok then first replace the valve and if no joy IMO go for the injector washers/seals IMO once started the starter has nothing to do with the fact that it stalls immediately so dont bother with it, it would be suspect only for hard even no start symptom

greater intercooler, HD torque converter and remap is all you need, dont mess with boost box cos it's not healthy for the engine, if you want more boost it's fixable with the fuel map by increasing the overboost limit and eventually a wide range MAP sensor, but a proper remap will be enough IMO

Good point, it's odd but that's how it works, the horn relay's fuse(F16 engine bay) is connected to the CC remote switch too ... i forgot about that first time

+1 ^^^ Another simple check is to see if the brake lamp switch haven't lost it's adjustment cos it's quite common, depress completely the pedal and pull the switch's plunger out untill it reaches the pedal, the switch has a N/C contact which is mainly for cruise control but it can affect running at low speeds too... the adjustment doesn rule out a bad contact within the switch though so the best would be to remove the switch and check continuity on the N/C contact(this contact doesnt affect the lamps at all so you can't rule it out other way...see the attachments and you'll understand where to measure in the plug if your's is manual the other one involved and quite common to fail is the clutch switch(if it's facelift it's not like in the attachment but in the bottom of the clutch master cylinder)

while you can bodge several things with tape or wire or a piece of wood and the D2 can limp with several faults there's one bit which IMO it's safe to have in the glove box, a crank sensor...cos if that one fails you are stuck for good and it has no backup whatsoever... i wish i had one few years ago in the middle of nowhere... now it's in the glovebox well packed

you are right... you get the impression... the problem is that i get the impression too that you didnt get the point

So, knowing those two extreme values for the PWM signal from ECM to the gauge how would you make the gauge to rise to 1/4 and stay there between 40 - 70*C then rise and stay on the middle between 70 and 120*C and go up to red above 120*C like the original based on the output of a NTC temp sensor fitted to other engine and work like that on that engine's real coolant temp? ... IMO the gist in this discussion is not about how to ''emulate'' signals to be accepted by the D2's original equipment/systems but to take outputs from a simple engine and insert something betwen that engine and the original equipment(instrument pack, autobox ECU, SLABS, BCU) to make it work like with the original engine + ECM and also show the reality(coolant temp, revs)... so it's not about 'generating' signals out of nowhere with arduino or what ever if you see what i mean i didnt say it's not possible just that it's much harder than it appears

Hi George... are you talking to me?, i've never heard about such thing on D2... and that old project is still pending due to lack of mood

the EAT(autobox) ECU needs all those signals i named to not log a fault though some of them like the MAF would not cause limp mode but they will trigger the warnings, so if you dont want to see the flashing M+S you'll have to disable them but then you'll not have warnings even in case of real trouble either...the bigger problem is that the EAT ECU needs those signals on CAN bus from engine ECM and as long as you dont measure each's form with oscilloscope to replicate it it will not work if you leave the Td 5 engine ECU in situ is not so bad cos you can take signals from the TP sensor to replicate others but i can't see other way to keep the autobox and the instruments working as originals

The autobox ECU comunicates with the Td5 engine ECU on a CAN serial data bus, i didnt even mention that cos then the conversion is almost impossible, i thought that the OP wants to convert a manual, cos the autobox needs digital inputs from the ECM as follows: CAN version identifier, Emissions (OBD II) control, Engine air intake temperature, Engine speed, Engine speed fault flagm, Engine temperature, Engine torque, Engine torque fault flag, Friction torque, Maximum engine torque,,Reduced engine torque, Road speed, Status of engine torque reduction, Throttle position, if these are not coming from the ECM as expected the autobox ECU will go in default limp mode with flashing warnings on dash as you kinda contradicted my statement be advised that: 1. NOt the BCU, the engine ECU(ECM) needs the rpm reading from the crank sensor and converts it to PWM for the tachometer 2. The cruise controll is entirely dependent on the ECM cos it's electronic not vacuum controlled 3. The BCU's immobiliser comunicates with the engine ECU and if it doesnt receive the ECU's digital asecurity code it goes to immobilised status ...and there are some more issues too so just better believe me cos i know what i'm speaking about IF we are speaking about a perfectly working D2 which was Td5 and has fitted other engine not some bodge so "no biggie" it's a bit exagerated unless you are some electronics genius

What you want is possible only kinda the other way around, if you leave the Td5 throttle and ECU in situ and addapt the replacement engine sensor's readings to fit with it's "expectations", it's very hard to build an emulator cos most of the signals(to gauges, tachometer, speedo, ABS) are PWM not analogue and the ABS needs specific throttle and engine speed inputs compatible with the vehicle speed readings to not enter in error defaults