sierrafery

IMO it could be something i've saw several times on various forums named "torque converter lock-up shudder", maybe this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lubeguards-Automatic-Transmission-Instant-Shudder/dp/B00CJ83C5Q would worth a try for that money... fixed that symptom for a friend of mine though his was a TDV6 D3

did you completely ignore that crank sensor thing?...your choice, just be aware that on "easy start" it will cough no matter if the injectors are working or not cos that spray explodes by itself due to compression in the combustion chamber as you crank the engine...as long as you have 4 bar pressure at the regulator with ignition on there is enough fuel in it just that IMO the management doesnt open the injectors.

if it pass the compression test another suspect for this kind of non-starting issue could be the crank position sensor or the main relay R9, the relay is easy to check swap with R8 heated screen or test...for the crank sensor it's harder, or you sap it with a known good one or measure it's input to ECU with AC voltmeter and there must be 2-3V while cranking...if this one is fubar'd the ECU doesnt open the injectors...even if the CKP sensor must trigger the MIL i saw cases when it didnt especially if the engine didnt run enough for the ECU to log a fault

but did you check F13 too? ...cos you didnt mention about it

....as long as it's suitable for electronic unit injector(PD) engines i have no comment

as long as it's fully synthetic and it's specified that it's suitable for electronic unit injector diesel engines any oil is good , this oil thing is more complicated than it appears believe me... i made serious research in this area and i can tell that not fully synth oils have a certain electric conductivity due to mineral microparticles and that's not good for a Td5 (or similar engines which have electronic unit injectors merged in the oil)) cos the injector's solenoids are connected to the loom within this oil... i'm not gonna keep a whole theory here but simplifying things about engine oil like Td5 was a tractor might have side effects(RAVE is inaccurate in this area)...i'm not saying it will not run but there might be a difference HOW it runs and for how long... that's all, just think about it one example http://www.valvolineeurope.com/serbi...?category=cars , now somebody find me a mineral oil which has this specification( i mean the unit injector thing)

unbolt it and jack up the front untill you can remove it

which ABS pump? ..and which cable? if you mean modulator and you hear the return pump inside it a common fault is stuck relay - R10 engine bay fusebox

if there was no leak IMO bleeding won't help cos the master cylinder is gone.

start with the simple things first, check fuse F13 interior fusebox to make good contact, then check theyr's earth...there's an earth header under the central console in front of the airbag ECU, make sure it makes good contact too... you can't miss it it's full of black wires(C0552 - RAVE - Electrical library - connector views) to rule out the isolation switch bridge the black and grey wires on it's back...also make sure there's good earth on the black wire(measure with ohmeter against body)

do you hear the fuel pump when you turn ignition on cos i have the feeling that you dont check fuse F10 in engine bay fusebox, if it's good swap relays R1(fuel pump) with R3(headlamp wash) for test...that water in fuel warning is on the fuel pump feed's circuit and if there's no feed to the pump the warning comes on regardless of water in fuel or not...LR should have mentioned that in the manuals but they didnt...i found that out on the hard way...if the fuse is blown and it'll blow after you replace it the pump is gone or there's a short to earth somewhere on the wiring to pump or to the water sensor...unplug the pump and if the fuse doesnt blow with the pump unplugged then it's certainly the pump...unplug the water sensor too cos it could blow the fuse as well.

i'm one of them, also based on a "smart-ar&e's" advice, it didnt take months for me only 3 weeks as i was fed up with the shudders and noise... you better bite the bullet and replace the DMF then you can put your mind to rest in this area for another close to 100K miles, the DMF acts likem a damper for torque shocks too and without it you'll stress the gearbox bad...use Valeo

it has the switch and lock/unlock motor and mechanisms in it...it always fails on unlock command first as the 'work' for the mechanism is harder, it's construction is very similar with what you see in this link http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/392435-post8.html , and here is what you must do http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/discovery-2-changing-door-lock-actuators-156079.html

new door latch assy needed

first of all is it D1 or D2?, for D2 i might be able to help

i dunno about that dash thing but what happens if you select defrost on aircon?... normally as long as the tester communicates with the BCU it's ok just that afaik early nanocom is not the best with BCU programming

it's illegal in Europe but a friend of mine has fitted this kind of kit http://www.philipsxenon.com/land-rover-c-345/land-rover-xenon-lights-kit-by-philips-hid-p-1230 on his off-road vehicle... works a treat, but there are cheaper options too http://www.ebay.com/itm/LANDROVER-DISCOVERY-II-HID-XENON-CONVERSION-KIT-H4-HI-LO-BEAM-/250986410837

was the engine running when you did these tests wasnt it?...cos the heated screen will not work without engine running, it's conceived so due to it's high load, also the heated screen must work on the aircon defrost command too, if you select defrost the LED on the screen's switch must illuminate... there's a timer in the BCU which keeps it on for a predetermined period it doesnt stay on for more than 5 minutes... and dont keep the button pushed more than 1 second cos then the BCU might interpret that you pushed it twice and disable the command.... also the LED is inependent of the relay, it must stay on even with the relay removed as it gets the feed directly from the BCU...as long as ithe LED comes on even briefly it means that the function is enabled in the BCU otherwise it wont come on at all.

there's no such adjustment for D2, the only thing can think is bad clutch quality(unless it's Valeo) or the drive plate was fitted the other way round, are you certain that the flywhel side of it was took in account... happened to me(and others too) that some schmucks fitted it wrong... though then it's hard to put it in gear too

depends on that gauge for what kind of sender was conceived, if it was calibrated for NTC sensor like yours it might work, make a test and you'll see... connect one pin of the sender to earth and the other to the gauge's input wire then go for a ride... if it will start from let's say 15*C (presuming that's the coolant's initial temp) and goes up to around 80(300tdi's aprox normal running temp) it means you can use it for refference even if it's not 100% accurate cos if it goes above 100 you'll know something is wrong.... or you can use a thermometer in the coolant to check it

concentrate on that fuse to not be loosened, eventually bend it's legs a bit, that's the first to be ruled out, if no joy with these 3 steps check the connection at the ABS modulator too... strangely, a bad contact there would trigger the SLS warnings too(quite uncommon though)... if nothing of these helps i'm affraid the ECU is on it's way out

it's exactly like when the SLABS ECU remains without feed ... hopefully it's an intermittent feed issue not actual ECU fault, take actions in this order , move to the next if the previous dont fix it: 1. make sure that fuse F28(interior) makes good contact 2. unplug the interior fusebox and give contact spray 3. unplug the SLABS ECU(behind glovebox, is written WABCO on it) and give contact spray this issue can be caused by water ingress to that ECU too

check this out http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/97817/0/nudge_bar_fitting_kit_disco11 , google out the part number as you can find it in other places too

if there's oil in the upper plug(at the head) the injector loom must be replaced even if there's noi oil at the ECU, it means the oil ingress has already begun at the solenoids ...also replace the glow plugs too, they are part of the engine management and they have a post ignition working period too, not just for staring there

did you run the purge procedure before that? ... depress the throttle 5 times consecutively, wait untill the MIL stops flashing and measure then.