sierrafery

you make some confusion IMO cos as said there's no such warning light...which one you mean from the attachment

afaik the system is the same just the shape of the upper part is different to fit near the auto gear selector... you better e-mail and ask them to make sure, Dave Ashcroft is very helpfull and he used to answer

i dont think that works for an auto...also i saw one case when the drop on the starter was not big but the starter's magnetic field disturbed the crank sensor's signal...it was a manual and it didnt start no matter what we did but it started when we towed it... fitted other starter and presto...very strange though ... @bagpuss_993 check also if the crank sensor wiring's shield is well earthed...also you can check at the ECM on the crank sensor's input, you must get 2-3 V AC while cranking. i dont envy you with this eldritch issue but be patient, you will get to the end of it

even with new battery the voltage test is relevant as i saw before that for some reason the starter motor has a greater drain than normal and the voltage drops hard while cranking...by the way run the purging procedure two or three times consecutively then try again(5 consecutive throttles then wait untill the MIL stops flashing)...by the way is the pump noisy after ignition on? ...cos if it sounds like a dying cat it's not ok...alos if it doesnt sount at all

then we have to wait for that pressure test imo...you can run circuit tests on injectors with hawkeye ...do that too ..you must hear them click when activated, let's make sure the ECU opens them i remembered something...put a voltmeter on the battery and watch it while cranking...if the voltage drops under 9V i will not start as the starter 'eats' all the current leaving the ECU underpowered...it's another thing to be ruled out

did you bypass the inertia fuel cut-off switch though

in this order: 1. check fuses F1, F12 in engine bay and rule out the main relay aswell(R9 engine bay)...swap with R8(heated screen) for test... 2. check the earth points on the earth "rail" which is near the jack compartment/battery toward the wheelarch, make sure they-re well tightened, especially the middle one... 3. unplug the inertia switch and bridge the pins in the plug ....if no joy 3. depends on how confident you are on the injector washers/seals job cos any minor mistake upon fitting could cause you trouble... addapt a proper fitting to a 5 bar pressure gauge as to be able to screw it instead of the temp sensor in the FPR and see if you have 4 bar there, if not you have a clogged fuel pipe(provided the pump is good)... leave it over night and if in the morning the pressure dropped under 3 bar then refit the injector washers/seals with extreme care about the CAN error message(presuming yours is an auto0... make continuity check on the CAN bus wires from ECM to EAT ECU, you can find pin disposals in RAVE- electrical library - connector views ..see C0158(ECM red plug) pins 32 - 35 the same colour wires in the EAT ECU ...though for this one you should have got the flashing M & S lights that's what comes in my mind at first sight seing what you've already done till now

there is a trick which used to work... lock the pedal to the floor by sticking a piece of wood or something between it and the seat and leave it so over night... if no joy with this procedure and you know that the cylinders are old you better bite the bullet and replace them both cos the fact that it's hard to bleed is due to wear in the piston body along the 'travel' of the seals...you'll see the improvement...it's a good practice to replace both cylinders even as a preventative maintainance cos putting a new one against a worn one the pressure in the system will 'kill' the seals of the old one in no time anyway...you dont want to see how it is to end up in the middle of nowhere without 'pedal'

maybe you misunderstood, hawkeye is made by Omitec on Testbook T4 protocol and gives you faults in clear language without any internet involvment, very reliable and stabil just that it doesnt calibrate height and sync used keys. Nanocom is a clone which has more features but it's quite unstabile with BCU(where it makes some times mods by it's own), SLABS ECU(communicates hard) and more unreliable with ACE.... i speak by experience as i have them both....i know nothing about Lynx

What????

what you say it's for OBDII scanners and it refers just to engine management...that CDP multivehicle tester is something else...i hooked one to my 2000 D2 out of curiosity(as i have hawkeye and nanocom) and it worked on the systems from the coverage list

the cheapest option is a multi vehicle scanner which is unable for programming or settings but will read/clear fault codes and comunicates with D2(and other L.R.s) + many other cars is this one: http://www.obdii.co.uk/car-diagnosti...-2013-1version , see the coverage here(scroll to page 579 -581): http://www.obd2be.com/download/autoc...t-car-list.pdf ,... nanocom or hawkeye which have full coverage on all systems are 4 times the price of this one

IMO that rod has nothing to do with the central locking, when you lock/unlock with fob a motor and a 'snake' is involved, you need a new latch assy(actuator)...simple as that ... see this http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f40/door-lock-actuator-rebuilt-51914/#post392435

then the rotary coupler becomes the most obvious... second hand are not reliable ... i know that a new one is friggin expensive ... though it's strange that only the horns and the cruise controll dont work with both coupligs ... bypass the rotary coupler on the horn circuit and try the buttons then to make sure... if it will not work this way there's some other issue... at the white plug (C0082) the purple/orange wire is for horns, connect the switch's output there and see if it works by pushing it

check fuse F16 in engine bay(this feed is connected to the cruise controll switch too beside the horn relay)

go to workshop manual-brakes-description and scroll down untill you find it...you'll see the connector pin descriptions and where it gets engine speed signal...pin 10- C0655 ...and so on

this code is due to comunication failure between the engine ECU and the SLABS ECU, or again a SLABS ECU internal fault cos according to the diagnostic protocol this code is generated as "engine data" fault and it must have triggered the HDC and TC(ETC) light not the ABS, the engine ECU sends a vehicle speed signal to the SLABS which in your case it's named "road speed" and it's missing this signal is known by the engine ECU as VSS(vehicle speed signal) and if it fails it must trigger the HDC lamp so first of all check for water ingress/corrosion at the SLABS ECU's plugs cos it's quite common, give them a contact spray then if this fault still persist IMO the ECU is fubar'd... quite a complicated diagnose here cos you must measure the signal on the pins if there or not to see where it gets lost so here is an erratic behaviour along the system cos on the fault code you've got there must be other warnings see the list below with all the warning lamp protocols as conceived by the builder(your problem is with the "Engine data" ...if you have Hawkeye check on live data this VSS if you can and see how it behaves erase that fault and see if it comes on again cos it used to log erraticaly too without any efect

you may try but i'm not sure it will work

you will not be able to connect the hawkeye while they are lit cos you have to plug it with ignition off then the tool will ask to turn ignition on and when you do that if the fault is intermittent the lights will not come on again untill you drive it... insist to read the codes untill you'll get an answer...It looks very like a hub issue to me, but you'll need to figure out which one.... it will log a fault in the end

the best and easyest is to read the fault code cos that will lead you directly to the problem...untill then read these if you want to know more:(when they say T4 u can think to nanocom or hawkeye too) 1. http://www.landrover...arning_lamp.pdf 2. http://www.landrover...bleshooting.pdf 3. http://www.landrover...bleshooting.pdf

does the HDC warning(the amber one) show up after ignition(on self test?) ...it's quite odd that there are no codes stored and that could lead to an ECU missbehaviour ...though if the fault is intermittent it might not store it always, especially if it's a hub issue.

which were the "obvious" fuses in this case m8? ... i'm just curious .... anyway if you meant F33 in the interior fusebox you was spot on, in this case BogMonster might be spot on too and the internals of the fusebox(IDM) were affected , cos through F33 goes the feed for RH side/tail/marker and dash illumination...if i mixed again offside with nearside and offside is LH side this story is the same for fuse F11

as above, these are not very reliable, and very easy to steel too... if you want to cover the tyre pressure issue bite the bullet and fit something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-ORO-TPMS-Kit-Wireless-Tire-Pressure-Monitoring-System-W401-Car-/400326271592?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyre_Trims_Trims_ET&hash=item5d354e2268

hey Terra Dog, i guess you are talking about the electric cooling fan aren't you? if yes you need to reset the ECU with a proper tester cos it's stuck on the cooling fan request... and for the gauge IMO the problem is the coolant temp. sensor...which gave a faulty signal to the ECU some time and it triggered the cooling fan and this sensor sends the information for the gauge too