sierrafery

Hi, if the sensor was aftermarket that could be the reason, as you dont have 3 amigos the system passes the stationary self test cos the sensor's output is within accepted limits without movement but as you start driving the new sensor's output starts to be different than the other 3 especially than the other on the same axle and the TC kicks in to equalise wheel speeds, it's a very sensitive system and any missbalance can mix it up, put same brand sensor on the other side on the same axle and tap gently the sensors with a rubber hammer before you tighten the screw...and give contact spray into the plugs to make it driveable untill you fix it remove the ABS pump relay R10, you'll get the 3 amigos and there will be no ABS activity but the brakes will work normally without any problems

the normal ride height is when the car is horizontal, i know hawkeye asks you for calibration blocks but you can use two jacks under the body as to support it on even level(use a bubble level tool in the boot) then when hawkeye asks if you have calibration blocks fitted prompt yes and it will save those heights...if you want to be 100% accurate improvise some blocks from wood as to achieve this:

did you drive it since? if yes and the warning didnt go out after the vehicle exceeded 20mph read fault codes to see if there's any logged or not,

Hi, the D2 has a SLABS ECU and even if the ABS works like on a defender you can't make any blink tests on it ... if the fault code was SVS related but you only replaced the switch pack that's not enough, you have to do the wiring mod, explanation here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/the-dreaded-three-amigos.284839/#post-3513501

would be easyer if we knew what engine and MY we are speaking about

A faulty cap can cause what you described a thermostat doesnt...so better rule out the cap, be aware to be completely tightened cos it's supposed to keep steady 1.4 bar in the system, if it's regulator valve blocked closed it will not release the excess and if it's open the coolant will start emitting microbubbles at above 90*C which will create overpressure. It's calbrated to 1.4 bar cos that's a decent pressure for the hoses and the water's boiling point is increased to 123*C at that pressure and it starts emitting microbubbles only above 115.... only buy genuine

For the front ones switch them on high speed cos then the motor gets feed directly through the switch no electronics involved so if it makes the trick this way too it means it's the motor's park switch gone and you need a new motor, if they work well on high speed but not on intermittent or low then it could be a problem with the IDM(interior fusebox) or BCU which can be related with the rear wiper too... for the rear wiper make sure it gets feed, check fuse F18 (interior fusebox) first

It's exactly how you said m8, it's what you pay for , Bearmach is pattern, if you want a good one get Mahle or Mann & Hummel

is there vacuum to the brake servo pump?

check this out, maybe it helps http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f40/power-steering-pump-high-pressure-pipe-bolt-size-39188/ , though here is stated 17mm http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70152&p=599906

i presume it's a V8 then?

the part numbers are different from D2 to Defender that's for sure, but all D2 pumps are the same

maybe better than a chinese one but not the best, see this http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pump-intank-allmakes-wfx000280-sold-with-warranty-p-3191.html , i can't vouch for other than VDO...and use quality filter too, at least Mahle or Coopers

+1... number 4 in the link http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=817378&SPRACHE=EN , but can be other thing in there too e.g. nr 6 which is common again

LR didnt make replacement parts, they are made by the OEM(original equipment manufacturers) but those dedicated to be Genuine(with the LR label) are made by best materials and better quality... those named OEM are made by the same reliable manufacturer but not to the same high standards if you see what i mean and AFAIK VDO is OEM for the Td5 pump

the best would be genuine LR but it's too expensive so a good brand is VDO which is OEM

As about the R380, there are 4 types(A,B,C,D), the D2 was equipped with B type and better get one of those otherwise the selector lever might not fit exactly to the central console, see the differencies here http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/R380%20Gearbox%20Overhaul%20Manual.pdf the TB is generally callled LT230 but the D2 was equipped with LT230SE while other modells with LT230Q even if they mechanically fit there are many functional differencies, there are differencies even between early modells and facelifts:

aftermarket pumps are all noisy ''by default''... the filter also must be a good brand, as long as there's no fuel leak and the bcar starts and runs fine only that's the problem

the switch on the receiver drier behind the grill is a dual pressure switch(click on the pic to enlarge), IMO as long as the system didnt work for a long time you need a regass and everything will be OK

google out the part numbers for what you need http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=801547&SPRACHE=EN

HI, you need the mirrors, the switch pack and the ECU... the wiring for the mirrors and switch is there but i've seen cases when the circuit for the ECU was not there(or too hidden to find), if you find the attached plug behind the glovebox(click on it to enlarge) connect all the bits and job done

are your horns working?

make sure that the EGR is not clogged but as long as it's there remove and clean the MAP/IAT sensor cos it's full of muck, if the wastegate rod is free and turbo pipes in good shape the next suspect is the throttle position sensor which could give you that symptom, IMO wastegate modulator failure would usually create overboost symptoms to cut out at higher revs not lack of acceleration at lower revs

Yes, IMO you've got a faulty lot... unless you forgot to disconnect the battery before fitting them and the heights lost calibration , in this case it's possible that the compressor to overinflate the bags untill they blow but that should not happen cos there is a mechanical pressure release valve which must protect the bags... just as a quite unlikely scenario to think about it, valid only if the bags didnt blow before the body reached maximum height

afaik these early modells used to have problems with the fusible links which are embeded inthe harness near the battery