DavidW

Wipac crystal replacement lights with Osram night breaker bulbs made a big difference to mine.

I'm using a disco 200tdi with the original 2.5 petrol sender and gauge. Mine gradually gets 'warm' after about 6 miles when the gauge sits in the middle of the dial where it never really moves from until I start again. David

Exhaust only version here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/defender-90-110-exhaust-conversion-for-discovery-200tdi-/321041530904?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4abf910018 I have no link to the seller, just a happy customer. David

This is what I bought, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/discovery-200tdi-into-defender-90-110-conversion-kit-/221168171141?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337ea67885 David

I used a manifold from ebay made for the job. Probably not as good as the Steve Parker one but was fair bit cheaper and works well.. David

I used this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270829675170?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1745wt_916 They have plenty of different sizes.

I've recently replaced mine with a disco 200tdi. Mine was in pretty good health and doing about 16mpg. I find the 200tdi a much more relaxed, easier and faster drive for every day use. When pulling things the petrol will always get you there, you're just going slower in a lower gear. Don't discount buying petrol with a view to changing at sometime. If found it worked financially for me. David

I bought an Armstong branded one which are cheap, not Britpart and I I think the OEM? Seems fine a year leter.

I've put a new Britpart black vinyl seat base in my 90 about 18 months ago and it's fine. I think they may one of the few good things they sell. David

Just to complete this, all the usual suppliers on the web could only supply the replacement, incompatible part telling me ESR1262 was no longer available. I eventually found a main dealer in Sussex who happened to have a couple of the old ones on the shelf and would post them to me. So, if anyone is buying new parts like me in the future, get the the oil cooler adaptors first then get the correct version of the pipes to fit. David

Thanks, that definitely confirms I have the right part number, I just need to find some. David

Thanks Western, yes this has been done before - it's where I got my info from. My main problem is finding somewhere still with ESR1262 in stock. I've just excitedly e-mailed Brit-car to check they have them. David

Hi I'm onto the final problem of my Disco 200tdi conversion and just have a problem with the oil cooler adaptors on the rad to sort. I have some lovely new ESR1912 and ESR1913 oil cooler pipes. These fit at the engine but the threads at the oil cooler connections don't match. I tried to order what I think is the right adaptor - ESR1262 but everywhere tells me it have been superseded by NTC3858. I have a couple of these and they don't fit the pipes. So can anyone confirm that ESR1262 is the right part, is there an alternative that works and has anyone got a pair they would part with? I've attached a picture of the oil cooler pipes of it helps. If anyone can help me I'd be so grateful as I'm completely stuck. Thanks David

I bought some suitable bolts from a local fastener supplier as there is nothing that special about them once you make sure you have the correct (might have been 7/16 UNF?) thread and strength (high tensile). I think they cost me 15p each. A bottle of threadlock is easily available and handy for the toolbox. David

It's probably NTC2036. Regards David

Thanks for all the suggestions. I happened to have a cap on the shelf which is now installed. The bearing seems ok and I'll check the breather tomorrow. David

Thanks, if that's the only problem the 25 year 90 has after today I'm very pleased. The cap is cracked. Is this much oil normal? Thanks David

After my first off road trip ever (which was fantastic) I got home to find oil all over the front wheel. I looks like it coming from behind the plastic hub cap. Can anyone tell me is likely to have failed? Thanks! David

I've just bought a 3 position 'e switch' for the panel on the other side of the steering wheel and in doing so found you can get pretty much any configuration of switch for the 22x30mm cut out needed. Hope this helps. David

I think it's worth spending a bit more on the ratchet type crimpers as they let you do reliable and consistent joints. The cheap type that you just squeeze and judge the crimp seem really unreliable to me. I got an ok set from RS Components.

Thanks all. Looks like I need a prop shaft tool and a couple of UJs. I suppose it has been about a week now since I spent more money of bits for the land rover...

Ok, I get the message.... Just to be serious for moment, so If one end is worn, it doesn't automatically follow that the other end is?

Hi In looking for the source of small clunk in my drivetrain and have found a bit of movement in the front most universal joint. I can't find any play in the other 3 joints. While I have the front prop off, should I be replacing both joints or is it normal just to do one at a time? Thanks in advance. David

Just another thought on this. Given the likely problems to be found and created in a car bought for £1k and driven to within an inch of it's life added to the cost of trackdays, particularly if the car fails at the start of the morning session. How about hiring something as a package at the track. Stick with low end caterhams or clio sport etc and it might not be too expensive and would be a better drive than a cheap banger? David

Would a loop of insulation tape make a neat end?