Simon_CSK

I have had two that have been LPG'd. The current one I have just done (before the valeters knackered the BECM) and is certainly very economic by comparison. However I have just sold my TD6 L322 which was returning for me 21mpg ( I have a very heavy right foot) however the new owner os getting 30mpg around and about and 37mpg on a run. I am using a TDV8 L322 at the moment and can achieve 25mpg on a trip even with a heavy right foot. It might be worth considering the L322 the prices have come down.

I have been buying a few L322's recently and have regularly been looking at the MOT history. That should be your first stop and that will give a good indication if it has been properly maintained. I have found that there are some cars with extensive failures and others only have things like bulbs and tyres. The minor or no failure vehicles are the ones you want to look at. I would consider the V8, never had a Diesel one but have had 3 V8 4.6's and they are very smooth cars. Check the front drivers floor carpet to see if it is wet. That will determine if the BECM is likely to be sitting in water which causes some of the electronic problems. Having broken about 6 or 7 of them I have never found corrosion issues mostly V8 engine problems and electronics.

The force on any bold into the floor will be a shear force as it is acting against the side of the bolt. So long as it is held down securely I would doubt there would be any great force on a rolling chassis. Replace the ratchet straps with a rope and a snatch block and pull the chassis up with another vehicle. The loads should be relatively small. I moved 250kg concrete railway sleepers down my driveway using a snatch block and it was very easy and this had a friction surface as it has no wheels over rough ground.

Valid point however I don't intend to have a repeat of this. The calipers are stiff so I am going to replace the front pads and make sure the sliders are operating correctly, then when I put the wheels back on I am going to make sure that they cannot get stuck on by putting a tiny bit of oil on them.

Scored them with a dremel as deep as I could go then hit them with a very sharp chisel until they started to turn. Then put mole grips on and turned them off. Now just need my new wheel nuts and my refurbished wheels and I am good to go.

Would agree however you cannot get the studs as a separate itm one would need to buy a complete hub. However having said that I have removed a stud from a Discovery 2 hub that I had lying around and it looks to be the same size. Certainly the same thread size where the length is the came remains to be seen. Unfortunately there are recessed wheel nuts on alloy wheels so that option is not available. I checked warious sizes on the standard wheel nut and found that the main shaft was 22.5mm diameter and the recess where the captive washer sits in 21.5mm. I went to tool station and bought a 22mm HSS drill and have drilled out the nuts. I exposed most of the 21.5mm collar which took the lip off the wheel nut.. That got the studs off enough to remove the wheel which are now away to the powder coaters. I still have the threaded part of the nut welded to the stud so, probably tomorrow afternoon, I will take the Dremel and cut along the length of the tread to remove it.

The nut is softer metal certainly and having thought about it I may be able to drill the head off the nut with a 23mm drill without damaging the stud. that should allow be to remove the wheel and then the tension will be off the threaded part so can either cut it or unwind it. Would agree but that is what the RAC is for. Have ordered new stainless steel bolts so am not worried about loosing them

Am in the process of removing the wheels on my L322 to get them powder coated. Have three wheels off but have hit a big problem with the NS front. I have three nuts that will not budge even with some heat. I have removed the stailess steel cap and have driven on smaller sockets however the only resut is that the nuts themselves have now rounded. I can afford to damage the finish on the wheel but not the structure and have oreder new wheel nuts so they can be cut off somehow. I did start to drill the studs out but they appear to be hardened. Has anyone had this problem and if so what was the solution?

by putting in a replacement engine it gives yoú the opportunity to use the car and troubleshoot problems with it while also having the benefit of therapy sessions in the workshop rebuilding the engine. best of both worlds.

The central locking should work normally only the alarm will go off when you open the door. Certainly does on mine. Get the EKA code from the dealer if you don't have it and input it as per the manual. That will disable the immobilizer and allow you to start the car.

I always found it easier with the V8's to put in a second hand engine. Unless there are historical issues you want to preserve the engine route is a lot less hastle and with a know running engine you will be good to go in no time.

Will the white box fit in the back of the Landy?

Well done

Can you drive a smaller socket on it or use a bolt extractor socket? If you can drive a socket on it can you add some heat?

I am very chilled most of the time however with hindsight I should have moved the trailer sooner and released the ratchet straps holding the car. Maybe even remove the car from the trailer. I certainly should have moved the wheelie bins, that may yet prove expensive.

Yes the last thing I was doing to it on Sunday afternoon.

Yes

I only had the engine and gearbox to remove. Everything else I wanted is on the other P38 fortunately. I was clearing all the fluids so I could get it scrapped. Petrol was the last thing and I am now certain that ther isn't any petrol in it,

There is one behing it my P38 and three L322's parked on the road. As soon as I realised it was out of control II moved the three L322's on to the road well away from it as they were initially parked in close proximity. My P38 is currently imobilised so I put a ratchet strap on the tow mar of the trailer and tied it to one of the L322's to move it away from causing damage to the house or anything else. Had a look at the trailer this morning and appart from the two tyres I knew about I was expecting brake cables and electrics to be burnt out. Electrics are gone but the brake cables and two tyres appear to be good. Have bought 2 tyres so once I have them on I will take the trailer and get the Range Rover scrapped then assess fully the damage to the trailer.

Thanks It is amazing how quickly it can go wrong. When working on the fuel system please all be very careful. We all know petrol is volatile but you don't realise how much so until something like this happens. I was very lucky, I had a sleepless night last night going through in my head what could have happened.

One of many. But no great loss as it was a donor. Have lost a good V8 and autobox. A bit of excitement for a Sunday evening.

Can anytell me is the tailgate from a 2009 to 2013 fits a 2005 car? I cannot see how it wouldn't

A note of caution when draining fluids from your car. The Fire Brigade put this down to a static spark around the fuel tank. Fortunately all were safe with minor damage to the house and the trailer and two written off wheelie bins. VID-20200802-WA0004[1].mp4

Daan I hope that chassis is taxed insured and Mot'd

I deal with local authorities on a daily basis and regardless of the circumstances every officer I deal with will ask for more information than the last. Even if I have had something past in the last week I can say for certain that it will still need further clarification from someone else. These people in "power" need to justify their existence, if they are not refusing things then what is the point of them being there. This is the reason that the public needs professionals who are dealing with the authorities regularly to stand up to them.