Simon_CSK

I have regular problems with the three amigos on my disco and are nearly always cause by the ABS sensors. The sensors can be checked simply with an multimetre put across the terminals on resistance, If the resistance keeps moving then they are ok if it sticks at a level thrn it is US. If in doubt there is a you tube vid on testing the ABS sensors. at the very least it will rule out one fault.

My birthday is in July and am planning to buy myself a present of an L322. I have an good idea for what I want but would appreciate pointers of problems I need to look for. Gearboxes and overheating are two issues that I am aware of. I am looking at either a TDV8 or a petrol V8 on LPG.

The only time I have known him to have a problem with either a pick up or a delivery is either traffic or a breakdown. But the last time he had a breakdown he was arranging some of his many contacts to pick up an collect from his broken truck.

Maverik Your Lightweight and a Range Rover Sport on the transporter. Probably just on my brothers legal load limit.

I bought the same things when I rebuilt my Disco 6 years ago. Braiding lasted about 6 months. Avoid Britpart whenever possible.

Maverik I recommend AAA Vehicle Logistics in Strathaven. (My younger brother lol) Despite the fact he is my brother he does know what he is doing and uses a Nissan Cabstar with a trailer. He travels all over the UK on a weekly basis.

My car is a 2001 with 187000 miles on the clock whilst it has a galvanised chassis with gives it a lot of worth for me the residual value is in the spares so I have no worries on that score.

Thanks That opens another can of worms that I need to look into lol From what I can tell so far is that if the MOT man and the Policeman don't have a problem then it isn't a problem. Will do some more research.

Sierra I have been looking at UK spec conversions and it seems that most people doing the conversion are lighting both bulbs each headlight. I understand your point about the heat but I will be upgrading the bulbs to LED's so the heat will not be an issue. Also and the power reguirements drop then the wiring should be well able to cope with the reduced load. Can you see any flaws in my arguement. As you say I don't need a build up of heat or the wiring burning out.

Sierra Sorry should have been more specific. Am doing a headlight conversion from the square the the later twin headlight. The twin has separate dip and main and needs to have a feed from the main beam to the dip beam when the headlights are on main beam. This is so the dip beam is illuminated at the same time as the main beam.

Ok now have the headlights fitted and done some of the wiring. All of the diagrams I have seen have two relays and two feeds one to each headlamp. When I wired it up today I tested only the near side and found that the dip beam back fed the off side. With this in mind do I need two relays or can I use the back feed What are the pros and cons.

For towing my Land Rover or Range Rover I have an Ifor CT177 which is twin axle with a very low bed. Towed this all over the place with either a P38 or a Disco 2 on the back and haven't had any issues. Very comfortable to tow. My brother, who moves vehicles commercially, uses a twin axle which has a very high bed towed by a Nissan Cabstar crew cab to avoid the Operators Licence issue. He sometimes borrows my trailer when he doesn't need the load capacity on his trailer. (His trailer is long enough to take 2 cars.)

Not had that problm but on two TD5's I have owned I have had a problem with the wiper motor mounting plate severely rusting to the point that the wiper motor doesn't move the blades but rotates insitu. This has then broken thewindscreen at the bottom which then causes the screen to crack radially from the wiper motor damage.

no problem have a couple

David Thanks, I found the earth lead this afternoon correct and present. That is another thing that it isn't

Yes have everything required.

David Yes RHD. I changed the engine 2 years ago after overheating it and with a torrid divorce am only now trouble shooting. I suspect the earth lead is the primary lead from the block to the body shell or chassis. Later on this morning I am going to run an HT lead from the block to the battery nad hopefully this will allow the car to start. If so my problems are all resolved but I would like to fix this cable properly. I will get a photo and post it.

Plan B then.I will change the ECU and BCU and try it that way as I have a spare. Thanks.

Have an immobiliser issue on my disco. It doesn't appear to want to turn off. I have replaced the receover in the ceiling with one I know works but still no joy. What else can it be?

My latest find on my car is that I haven't reconnected what looks like an earth lead. The cable is flat to the offside rear of the engine bay fixed to the lip of the bulkhead. Can anyone tell me where it goes from and where it goes to? Also could this be the reason I cannot start the car?

Ggeoff There is very often a problem with the starter solinoids on the TD5's I have had the problem off and on for years. crawl under the car and waggle the LT cable and try again. This is always my go to when there is nothing from the starter and it has never failed. Once or twice you need to try it two or three times to get it working.

If I could have taken the old one off first it would have given me a much clearer idea of how it came off. I had a complete car with a good wing and a car sitting outside that I had to keep the wing on. Now I know how it goes together I will not have any issues with the old one even if I was to cut it off.

I still need to take the damaged one off so I may do a video. Once you know how to take it off it is easy.

Welcome Sam

Just bought a D2 for the engine for my 2001 will lnow how good it is later in the week when my brother collects it.