Simon_CSK

The turbo with the slight play has been refitted. All surfaces were cleaned with acetone before refitting. Everything bolted together fine and all leaks were sealed. New oil and filters fitted. Cranked over without starting and lifted oil up through the jubillee connector before bolting that together and starting. Car started fine and ran. The turbo was whizzing round Now did I miss anything.

Guess I didn't do any of that. Maybe why I seized the replacement turbo. As they say more haste less speed.

I got speaking to my neighbour this evening. He is an aero engineer and one of his work mates recons turbos on the back shift. Chances are I will get the bearings replaced before I install it. Changed the feed pipe from the bottom of the engine. Having never refitted a turbo before and being short of time and trying to avoid the dark I just cracked on. Lesson learned. Which is the feed pipe? The top one? Certainly will do this now that I know it needs to be done. Thanks for all the replies

Blew the turbo on the Disco last weekend but fortunately had two spare. Fitted one and that seized very quickly I think becuaseit had been sitting outside. Now have the other one ready to fit but there is a very slight play in the shaft. Now do I fit it and get one of the others reconditioned or do I get this one reconditioned? I don't have a clue how long it will last as it is. Ideas please

Head Gaskets are a common fault with V8's I am guessing it is a 3.9 so it could be head Gasket or dropped cylinder liners. Try a block sealand first before you take the haeds off.

I noticed that some of the newer models in Russia appeared to be a little lower and sported black plastic grilles which made then look not too bad. The heater in Russia would be very important. I Moscow, where my wife lives, the temperature in Winter gets as low as -30 and +30 in summer. The one I saw on the way back to Sochi Airport while green had the wide wheels and the flared arched in FridgeFreezers pic.

Most of ours did. In the 90's after the collapse of the Iron Curtain people were importing rusty cars back for spares in Russia.

Sorry Mods for going off topic. But by showing it I am demonstrating how good Land Rovers really are. I'll get my coat.

Did the British in 94,95,96. After my first marriage I didn't get the chance however in 2016 with a Russian GF it was convient to meet in Budapest so we got the Hungarian Grand Prix. Last year before I was to fly to Moscow for my wedding (no 2) I was watching the Azerbijan (Dyslexic so no spelling comments please) and looked at the date for the next one. Turned out to be Austria on July 9th and I knew my honeymoon was in Austria until July 11th. Asked my soon to be wife if I/we could go and result as long as we were under a roof and only went on race day she agreed. She then let me take my youngest son to the British GP the following weekend. This year did the British then the Russian. Sorry about Bottas but team orders are team orders and I fully understand where Toto was coming from. Because Putin turned up (cavalcade passed right in front of us) I got a chance to go on to the track to see the award and champagne fight. Moving back to the Niva 🤣🤣 on the drive back to Sochi (30 miles) we followed a tricked up Niva but I didn't get the chance to get a photo. Again saw lots of them but couldn't get a photo. I have got a photo from the Sochi car meseum which I have posted along with some cracking cars. If you thought British Leyland made some cracking mistakes then you should certaily see the Russian efforts. BL were design gurus by comparision (That is my chance of any future Russian Visa gone) I was hoping to find one at the airport but the only thing I saw was a Freelander 2.

I can answer that very easily. Yesterday. I am currently in Russia in the moutains aroud Sochi (was at the Grand Prix at the weekend). I even saw a long wheelbased version with 4 doors and thought to myself that looks different. The Lada brand is still very much alive in Russia it is just that it doesn't meet Western European emmissions. I will see if I can get some photos however I am starting my journey home this morning so don;t know what oportunites this will present. Certainly my (Russian) wife will be happier that I stop pointing out every Land Rover or Range Rover that I see.

No bracing. It is something I am thinking of putting in.

The Front tow bar on my Disco TD5 was drooping and I assumed the bolts were loose. When I looked more closely the top bolts that pass throught the chasis had torn the chassis. I need to fix the chassis anyway but really want the front tow bar fitted as it is very useful and it is the mount point for my winch. So I am thinking that this will need to be strenghtened. The front bumper is a heavy duty steel job that bolts directly to the chassis on the outside of the legs. The tow bar bolts on the inside of the chassis legs. My chassis was repaced 6 years ago and is galvanised so I don't want to weld anymore than is necessary. Has anyone had this problem and how was it resolved.

In 2012 I bought an ES only to discover after 3 months that the chassis was worse than Swiss cheese. After my initial attempts to weld it up and discovering that there was no solid metal to weld to I set about a rechassis. I put on a galvanised chassis. In total it cost me £10k which included the cost of the car new brakes new suspension stripping out the ACE and ultimately the air suspension. Over the last two years it was parked up because of engine issues, a divorce and a new marriage (mad fool that I am) but in the last three months have sorted out the car and am looking forward to driving it again. It has 183k on the clock and I can honestly say I love it. It will get used every day of the week as long as it runs. There will be no depreciation because it is worthless anyway. In the last month I have spent on it £1500 which included fitting a second hand engine, new clutch, new sound system, and new interior because mine was old tired and shredded by my dog. My bench mark was my Freelander 2 which I bought new in 2007. Cost me £35k and got £18k back for it after 3 years. I figure if I run old cars, I have three, and they cost less than £6k a year then I am winning.BTW I do something like 30k miles every year. Occasionally have a breakdown.

I built my own dog crate for the disco to divide the rear into two because the two dogs I had at the time were always fighting. Printed plastic connectors to feed into small steel angle iron and then infilled with a mesh. Worked very well. I have removed it at the moment as I am about to replace my interior my old seats are well past their sell by date. On the subject of the radio I am in the process of fitting a double din head unit with sat nav. I have altered the dash section to take the unit so looking forward to getting that fitted hopefully tomorrow.

Want some. I have 4 on 2 shells.

Thanks for all the help. I eventually got it sorted, yesterday. It turned out that the accellerator pedal I had replaced with was the wrong one so my duff one was repaced with an incompatable one. This then perpetuated the problem and led to my frustration. Having been without a Land Rover for three months I must admit that I enjoy being behind the wheel. Tomorrow my youndest son and I are going to change the interior as mine with over 183k on the clock is ripped to shreds, partly thanks to my pup and to age. If I have time I will be changing the dash and fitting a double din Sat Nav unit and some more USB charging points. Sunday I have some leaks to fix and possibly change my rear wing and quater. Back to reality. My mini can get parked up for a while so I can enjoy my Disco. Once I have the Disco looking nice I will start on my P38 as that hasn't run since I change the V8.

Te parts cannon changed the throttle pedal the ECU and the BCU. I bought a new engine bay wirning loom and an injector loom.

topside switch what is this? Before the computer used the spares cannon and replaced the ECU and the BCU and the result was still the same. i.e. would only idle and not rev We cleared the codes and it came back with 01 Ambient air temp circuit fault. Logged High 02 Ambient air temp circuit fault. Currently Active 03 Driver demand 3 fault. Currently Active. 04 Faults detected with driver demand. Logged 05 Faults detected with driver demand. Currently Active I don't know what the diagnosis gear was. All I know is that it was expensive.

At last I have finally got my Disco on a computer so now can someone help me interpret the results? Faults as follow: 01 Manifold pressure circuitt fault. Logged Low 02 Driver demand supply fault. Logged Low 03 Ambient Pressure circuit fault Logged Low 04 Manifold pressure circuitt fault. Logged High 05 Inlet air temp circuit fault. Logged High 06 Ambient air temp circuit. Logged High 07 Ambient air temp circuit fault. Currently Active 08 High speed crank sync lost fault. Logged 09 Coolant temp circuit fault. Logged 10 Fuel temp circuit fault. Logged 11 Driver demand 3 fault. Currently Active 12 Driver demand 1 out of range fault. Logged 13 Driver demand 2 out of range fault. Logged 14 Faults detected with driver demand. Logged 15 Road speed missing fault. Logged 16 Can error fault. Currently Logged 17 Faults decected with driver demand. Logged 18 Topside switch failed post injection. Logged 19 Injector 3 peak charge short. Logged. I don't have a clue what any of that means. If asked to guess I would point to injector 3

I had a set on one of my P38's when I first bought it but had extra set of Hurricane so I too them off for two reasons 1. I prefer the Hurricanes and 2. I could swap them easily with my Disco

They were 18" fitting on the P38 have never seen them on a Disco. I have a set of Hurricane Alloys spare which I think are much better looking and have them on both my Disco and my P38

I have tried to get it on to a computer but everyone I take it to is too busy to deal with an old D2 so it sits outside their workshop for a couple of weeks until I get annoyed. I have loads of spares so inbetween times I replace the parts.