ToyRoverlander

I bet you'd get more replies on the LandCruiser forum if you're looking for a Cruiser gearbox.. I believe it's the H150 or H151 IIRCC..

Don't bother with a LR gearbox, use the toyota one instead. It too has an offset rear output. At least you know it's a quality gearbox that can handle the torque, unlike an R380

Or did you mean mine? If so. I have no clue. It's not fitted yet. No need to cut anything off. The splined section has a smaller OD than the rest of the shaft. This hex bit goes straight over the splines to the thicker bit behind where you weld it to it. Here's a view from the side.

I've bought this one: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-Black-Aluminum-Steering-Wheel-p-17136.html With this one: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Trail-Gear-Weld-On-Steering-Wheel-Disconnect-p-29175.html Not fitted yet though.. A detacheable steering wheel makes steeling the vehicle harder... expecially when both diffs are locked and the wheels turned.... makes it REALLY hard to move it !

FYI http://www.bellintercoolers.com/pages/techFAQ.html#FAQ_5

1HD-T (4.2 straight 6 turbo diesel) from an 80series landcruiser, 3" exhaust...intercooler....

I have..... once... and ran away after hearing their price! They quoted someting like 80euro a pair IIRC. Ridiculous. The ones I have now were $13,60 each

I noticed huge differences in the sort of u-bolt each time I ordered new ones. That was from paddocks. The one time they're metric, the next time they were....whatever... zinc plated and non zinc-plated.... Differences in diameter as well... Strange... Those bolts are always 'fun' when they haven't been touched for years.... You might as well attack them with an angle grinder.... those bushes are most likely in need of replacing anyway if you can't even get the bolts to move....

Not much metal left...... and they're not THAT thick to begin with..... I once broke a brand new u-bolt by simply climbing a 2feet brick wall.... After that I was carrying a spare u-bolt just in case... I now have some uber-beefy grade8 5/8 U-bolts with tall nuts and 1/4" thick washers lying here ready for when I start my massive rebuild... I doubt I'll ever break these....

You could also have an electrically, or manually, operated valve in the fuel line... It might run for a little while, and then die.... How frustrating would that be for a thieve as the thing conks out after a few yards...

Easy way? Boost controller! Turn the knob to increase/decrease boost.... too easy

Worn TRE perhaps..

Like so

Interesting... Clearly BS.... There's a centre pin going straight through the leaves right at that spot.... where's it gonna go to?? I guess I'm not the only one who sees a rustproblem in this idea...especially with all the salt they throw on the roads in winter.... I dunno.. doesn't seem like a very good idea I reckon.... Otherwise.... good way of keeping the ubolts from sticking out.

I know exactly what you mean.... Mine is at such a height and angle it blows straight into an open car window... When on the ferry going across the river I always park on the left side so no cyclists and pedestrians can stand right next to my exhaust on startup. That said.... I'll stick with a side exhaust.. It'll get squased underneath the rear crossmember otherwise, and poking out through the PTO hole just looks downright ugly... plus I don't want an exhaust pipe blowing a stinking blast of diesel fumes right at my privates when I'm standing behind it...

I'd stick with a 110 and shorten the rear overhang... I LOVE a nice long wheelbase... nice and stable offroad.

That's where mine is most likely going to. Only on the other side of the vehicle... if I can route the exhaust past the Tcase that is...

Another side exhaust on a 109", not far behind the rear wheel.... With a diesel the panel behind the exhaust will be black from soot though....

Found this a while back..

Or forklift axles Enough weight, 2500kg, down low to make sure you don't fall over.....

I've got 2x 9mtr snatchstraps for offroad recovery.I love the bit of extra length. For onroad towing I just double it up to get 4.5mtr. Here we joined 2 9mtr straps together... I couldn't get any closer without getting stuck myself. That ground was VERY soft..

I don't understand this fascination for carrying spares instead of putting proper shafts in there from the get-go .. Surely you don't enjoy having to change shafts, or worse, having to take out the diff in order to get the broken bit out that seems to be just a bit too stuck to get out with any clever tools, underneath a mud covered vehicle... I much more enjoy driving around, having fun and not having to worry about breaking stuff..

I have no idea to be honest....

On a stock vehicle I would fit a locker first. Especially as does 'kits' for Defenders, and other coilers, focus on huge flex from the rear axle alone which is carp. I'd rather have standard suspenion with a locker than a hugely unbalanced suspension setup. But as a whole, I'd take a well balanced (front to rear, up and down travel) suspension with a lot of overall articulation and dual lockers anyday! Oh wait... that's what I've got . And it's going to get even better very soon! Leafs rock!!!

I doubt they got the same stuff in the UK as they have over here. I can't even remember what it's called. Basically it's based on natural oils and is used to treat your wooden table and chairs and stuff you keep outside in the garden. The oil gets absorbed by the wood and dries up. When used on the underside of your car it just dries up and forms a nice strong layer. Should be available in every hardware store.