uninformed

I guess no one cares about electrolysis from dissimilar metals?

OK, so while you are all trying to find your tape measures.... If I do use a Td5 tank on a Tdi, what do I need to change? Pump? Sendor? fittings? cheers Serg

Hey all, Im looking to reduce the rear overhang on my 300Tdi 110. Can someone tell me the length of the 90 Td5 fuel tank? Length being front to back measurement. cheers Serg

From a mechanical engineering point of view, no gasket material of any kind would be best, but we have to deal with oil and sealing it. So next best thing is thinest is best. If they are the same PCD (I know both early and late 110 are M10 bolts for drive flange to hub) then I will use the thinner later type.

As an outsider looking in, it seems a lot of the rally raiders in the uk either convert their defenders to D2 stuff or build on D2 chassis. The D2 front end has a improvements over the Defednder. You cant beat long travel for high speed off road work, but thats up travel. Lifting your d90 on the springs will increase COG and worsen suspension geometry, in short what you gain in up travel you lose more so else where. Spring rates will be key, along with Goog quality tuneable shocks. If you can fit 2.5" external fox , king etc then go for those and as RLM said, hydro bumps. 300Tdi, as much cooling as you can give it and keep the tune clean and low. Cut a vent in the left wing (where a 200tdi air intake would be) R380, HDbearing upgrade LT230 Ahscroft atb, extended sump.

Hey all, early 110 up to probably 93, part number FRC3988 - thick Late 110 probably 93 onwards, part number 571752 - thin paper Was there differences in the hub to drive flange PCD? I have early hubs but prefer the later thiner gasket.

I’m guessing 8” wide or more? Also guessing you already had them... and I probably should not say this as you can’t change what you have done, but if building custom housings why not make them wider and go positive offset.. you get a few benefits. I also would have triangulated your rear trailing arms. but keep at it bud. 👍

every bit helps. What rim size and offset/backspace are you running?

A lot of the after market bolts are junk, no mater what grade or class is stamped on them. If the Genuine ones are in ok condition, clean and reuse.

Can you push the axle end of lowers outwards to gain a little triangulation? That would lower Axle Roll Axis. Or remote your oil filter, move both upper and lowers up to get a similar Anti lift number with lower ARA. If you are keeping the stock Radius arm mount and building custom off that, make sure your arm doesn’t fowl on it at full up cross articulation.

The only way you will do that is by raising the chassis end of your 3rd link. Im sure you have done what you can, but with those chassis limitations, your anti lift is going to suck.

What am I missing? Looking at the lower link angles in side elevation, how the hell are they +1 and -2 Axle roll axis angle? looks like the uppers are determining that ? why would that be? Anti lift isnt great, Imo not sure youd notice a difference between those two high numbers, but the roll stiffness you would.

They are Design and Development Engineering. I mentioned them just a few posts prior...

Has anyone here looked into the Design and Developments Engineering kits? Should be available soon. 370 quid by the sounds of it. Looks like early 90/110 caliper

There is a good chance welding those spring seats and caliper brackets on have put your ends out of allignment. You really should be using an alignment bar once all is finished, then if out bend true with a porta power. As a note, welding the small Maxidrive difflock acuator weld on block to a rover housing requires about 5-6mm of pre stress in the housing, and that is a little 90x60mm rectangle block.

If your truss stops short of the ends, say inside the coil mounts not much point. Maybe better off running a back brace full length. keep up the good work though. Good to see something different

Regarding the comment of spring rates higher in the rear. There is a couple of reasons to do that. To tune the roll stiffness of the links. You can use a anti roll bar, but springs is a sort of cheat. Of course this is determined by the link set up front and rear, and their roll stiffness compared to each other. The other reason is spring frequency. The rear should always be higher than the front. Its got to do with pitch and ride etc. Yes weight over axle will determine spring rate, but unless very very light rear, the rate would be somewhere the same or higher in the rear. cheers Serg

Was there a reason to run it centred? does it make fabrication easier for you?

IMO I would run it offset, not only for alignment of prop shaft, but for offroading.

Wheel base has no effect on articulation. Springs and shocks are only "tuning" the available articulation. The front radius arm set up has a higher roll stiffness than the rear "A frame/trailing arm" set up. Getting the front to perform to its best and tuning the rear to suit is a good start. The early narrow radius arms offer more articulation over the later wider type. Bush brand will also determine the amount of articulation to a degree. Softer the better (as long as they last) Not all polyurethane bushes are the same hardness. The two limiting factors (for articulation) of a Radius arm are its length and the separation between the two axle bushes. The longer the arm the better. The closer the two bushes the less resistance they have. But bush separation can be counteracted by bush design. Point in case, the D2 Radius arms have greater axle bush separation, but the bushes have more rubber and look to have a greater range of movement over the later defender type. Plus the D2 arms are about 100mm longer. Another option could be to get a stock Defender Radius arm and bore the axle bush holes to take Nissan Patrol bushes (larger, more rubber, more range of movement) In short, with stock links etc, run the softest spring reasonable in the front, and tune the rear to suit. The rear is easy to get to flex, but having silly flexy rear makes for an unbalanced vehicle. Keeping the vehicle as low as possible is a good help to Lower COG and keeps the geometry better for on and offroad use, intern making softer springs less of a detriment. cheers Serg

I know this is an old thread, but the bolts on my 98’ 110 were not metric, but imperial UNF from factory ( marked Atlas) the 1/2” at A frame arms to ball joint connection are grade 8 and the two big 3/4” at end of A frame arm to chassis are grade 5. So I’m not sure how a 92 would be metric? Class for metric and Grade for SAE don’t line up. Grade 8 is about same as Class 10.9

Thanks David, is there any links to an online copy of the S111 workshop manual?

ok, so what is the TS for the stub axle to swivel housing?

I would doubt they be the same as Coil sprung land rovers as there are differences in threads etc. I did manage to look through some old Series manuals, but they are a bit hit and miss compared to the later manuals for torque settings. The stub axle to swivel housing bolts are 3/8 BSF, im yet to find a TS for those. The king pin is also 3/8 BSF and says 50-60 lbf.ft The steering arm has 7/16 BSF studs, that if have been removed, need to be replaced and installed to 40-50 lbf.ft with loctite 270 and then when actually installing the steeering arm and doing up the nuts, 50-60 lbf.ft.... so thats a little odd

Hey all, Im looking for the torque settings for the front axle swivel assembly for a SIII Stage 1 V8 Stub axle to swivel housing King pin Steering arm. Thanks Serg