honitonhobbit

http://www.4x4foto.com/video/view_video.ph...amp;category=mr Is this it - great camera work.

I win again B)

Ian you are talking petrol lumps though where timing and fueling are critical to prevent pre-ignition and thus avoid internal meltdown and pistons that look like windows into the sump. Pre-ignition is almost impossible with diesel (nothing is impossible). What holes pistons in oil burners is poor ignition. with propane or NOS you are improving ignition. You cannot over fuel a diesel - what doesn't burn come out of the exhaust but you can create too rich a mixture; I would also point out that 200/300Tdi's are not as sensitive to high EGT as some would believe and definately not as prone as the XUD1.9/2.1 both of which have been NOS'd to hell and back. "So why is EGT important? EGT is an indication of how hot the combustion process is in the cylinders, and the amount of “afterburning” that is occurring in the exhaust manifold. EGT is also directly related to the air/fuel ratio. The richer the air/fuel ratio in a diesel, the higher the EGT will be. Two things can create a rich mixture under heavy loads or at full throttle: the first is too much fuel, and the second is not enough air. That seems simple enough, but it’s the second part, not enough air, that could get a stock, unmodified truck or motorhome in trouble. Anything that restricts intake airflow, or intake air density, limits the air mass that gets to the cylinders. Think of it as the amount of oxygen getting to the cylinders to support the combustion of fuel. This could include: a dirty or restrictive air cleaner, a partially blocked air intake, high outside air temperature, high altitude, restricted airflow to or through the radiator or intercooler, and high water temperature. The vehicle’s water temperature gauge will provide a warning of a cooling system problem, but the other problems aren’t likely to be noticed without a pyrometer unless the driver notices excessive exhaust smoke. A pyrometer also reacts more quickly than the water temperature gauge, so it allows the driver to spot a problem sooner and avoid engine damage. A restrictive exhaust system can also reduce the airflow through the engine, resulting in a rich condition. Any of the above conditions can result in excessive EGT if the vehicle is working hard, such as pulling a heavy load, running at sustained high speed, subjected to climbing a long grade, etc." Like I said in another post elsewhere - NOS is perfect for diesels. Your problem is the lack of cylinders in an IL4 and a need for crappy inneficient cheap fuel to run an engine on

Why

Why 'Clown'? NOS works well with Diesel engines - better so than on petrols To be honest you haven't lived until you have bolted a small marine turbo to a engine, added an injector post turbo to the manifold added 50% Methanol to the fuel, and then hit the overfuel secondary injectors at the same time as the NOS. Maybe you should take a peak at the science behind some of these http://www.tractorpulling.co.uk/

http://www.dft.gov.uk/consultations/open/typeapproval/ http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/repository...on%20Manual.pdf

I have a 6300 with a glove and it takes all of what I chuck at it. I like it so much I may wave my yearly upgrade

I've been pricing up buyin the 50/50 in 40 gallon drums - putting in a bulk order to cover a few friends as well. What with the wife doing a tank of juice a week in the Passat - that's over 70 quid a pop now (!) I need a bigger supply to cover here costs as well

Steve don't forget the effortless freespool on the TDS - works a treat. The newer the rope the less bunching - and visa versa. Must admit that this is my pet hate on the 8274; that and the run on, Does my head in, the amount of time faffing around... Mind you even the EP will bunch up if you have an old rope and don't put it back wtith some thought - that's what a bonnet net is used for

Two motors on a main shaft that narrow a diameter would be crazy Just buy a TDS

James If you have the numbers I will marshal, if not I will compete/marshal like last time - paying to marshal, woohoo!

Yup that's the one. I cleaned him out of 3/8th's drive sockets - job lot and got a tool box thrown in to carry them. All Sealey six siders. Nice micrometer set - sealey again - for a tenner, a box of stuff for a fiver and a Sealey Tap and Die set (as Lord Bosh of Bosh still has mine) for a fiver

Chris I would have a word with BBC's son. The word 'Painter' should really means, runs a spray shop for one of the biggest autorepair companies in the UK and also happens to be one of the few approved sprayers for some of Europe's most prestigious marques. I would expect the colour to match and the whole vehicle to have been polished and waxed. Matt spats are still available so that's poo. All in all I would be ringing the NFU and saying sort this out please and damn fast or I would like a courtesy motor of the same type for my off road forays into the wilds, please.

Too late! Oh well There is a small allen headed grub screw that stops you unscrewing the shaft that the locking pin is located in

Still working of course! Two brushes were grey powder and the motor had been hot enough to distort the plastic mounting for the brush mounts; the windings were scored form molten solder that had formed when run to hot then cooled into a ool that interfered with the windings - but this isn't some crappy Warn we are talking here this is an EP9! So of course it still worked. Ran a tadge warm though. Oh and the previous servicer had been a beliver in the pack it with grease school of winchery

Nick, do you mean the large circular peice of metal that has the multiple holes that allow the clutch mechanism to slot into. If so it is held in by the gears and gear spacers in the same way as an EP9 It's a very tight fit and the light grease creates a vacuum fit so you need a number four adjusting tool (hide mallet) and two carefully crafted pieces of wood

For those of you in the Cullompton area, Continetal Cars Parts shop is closing down. Pete, the owner, is selling off stuff at some very sensible rates. Last day of the sale is most likely Monday and he doesn't open Saturday so it's a small window

If I didn't have a PRT then I would have the Xeng anchor. It's so damn light you can chuck it anywhere but it is still as strong as a strong thing. Price is fair to

My TDS gets more than occasional work and it just keeps on pulling. I keep checking the motor for water ingress but none as yet. Mike Cuff is running a TDS on the rear of his J**p with a 5.6 Bowmotor - he seems happy. The way the mount on his j**p is designed the rear winch gets wet and stays wet. Having just re-built his old EP9, I was a bit surprised as it was the most kna**ered EP motor I have seen out of about 70 odd. So it will be interesting to see how his TDS holds up

Be as easy to run a constant cooled air to air and the biggest damn cooler around, then fuel to requirements. It's easy to up the calorific' by either 50/50 Bio or an over dose of Millers - both worth a few extra ponies form low down. A bit of twiddling with the exhaust is worth a few extra ponies - I mean flowing and additional scavenge through design - not just losing a silencer or two. Snorkels strangle a good engine so you could address design and flow; the 'Jez Built' clean the inside with small children concept works well. Propane takes up as much room as you want it to - especially if you use it 'on the button'. Diesels are a doddle to tune, but ther are two ways to do it: 1). Huge power gains from bolt on or fuel improvers, then you need to monitor all the time. We managed to squeeze over 1000hp from a 130hp engine this way (note HP not BHP) 2). Small power increments from tweaks. Much more fun

Yes but only on XUD engines and Massey Fergusen lumps. It's fun but potentially destructive. Under perfect conditions NoS reckoned you get a 500% power increase but reality means that the engine goes bang at about 150% unless you do silly mods. Fitting a single or double boost nozzle (say 12% or 25% petrol types with a two stage switch) on to the intake manifold (post turbo is always good!) is nice. You don't get head heat issues as the N2 super cools whislt the O improves the burn. Just chuck shed loads of fuel in until you can't see out the back then ease it off a bit. A huge bore exhaust with little in the way of baffles does aid getting the hot fumes out as does exhaust wrap. We hill climbed and sprinted a 205 DT for a while - however we did have a fair few spare engines

Mine have had a couple of years squishing

I have them on the front of my 100" - you get about a 1/4 of an inch after squish

My q plate is 2003 reg and tested as a 200tdi becaus ethat's what the 'puter says. MOT on Saturday as it happens

Pop over and have a look under my bonnet