Divster

They are highly sensitive. Got fed up with cleaning and changing mine so just disconnected the sensor in the end

2000 TD5 disco with a warn M8000 from ebay with a knackered motor. 9.5xp motor added as a replacement; Wired in the engine bay using an albright solenoid in the spot that used to hold the jack. Controlled mostly using a wireless remote (black box next to the albright). Master switch and hardwired secondary controls mounted just inside the grille

How long are you cranking it for? Even after purging the filter it can take a fair bIt of cranking to get it to fire

Is your temp gauge still doing the same even after the clean out? I only ask as I can't trace a fault with my cooling system but the temp gauge does the same as yours

Have a look at this; http://www.discovery2.co.uk/twinbattery.html

I'm on my second set of coopers in 120k miles. I really rate them. My first set were STs. I'm now on STTs. The wear rate is really good, the road noise is minimal and the performance on and off road is very good. I estimate I'll get another 20k out of the current set and will buy the same again

Wes, there is no high/low warning light on a D2. There may be a warning light for the centre diff lock if you have one installed or have made aftermarket alterations

Managed to spend a couple of hours doing the other side last night. Luckily the top ball joint was ok. Replacing the lower one only took about an hour because I'd already prepared all of the pressing stuff. It's all back together now. I'm glad that I decided to have a go at doing it myself rather than paying big labour rates at the local independant. Having said that, it's definately not the easiest of jobs I've done on the D2 I can certainly see why LR went to the ball joint knuckle from the old swivel housings. It's just like a lot of "improvements" on later models..... Not designed with the DIY mechanic/ enthusiast in mind

Finally got to do some more on this today. I'm using one of the ball joint service kits from eBay. It's generally quite good for a cheap Chinese thing. The only problem is needing as many arms as an octopus to ensure everything's lined up alright before tightening. Unfortunately some of the angles on the discos axles meant that I have to doctor some of the tubes by grinding flats on to them in order to get direct pressing. I was worried about pumping too much heat into the axle and decided against the oxy set and went for a gentle heat through with a propane torch. Both joints pressed out quite easily once heated. I'd read that this was the worse bit over and done with, however I think pressing the joints back in is just as hard. I managed to get both joints into the casing before light faded on me. Now just to rebuild this knuckle, and do the joints on the other side

Update.....managed to have a couple of hours on the disco on Sunday. After finishing off a couple of other niggles from a parts delivery I went back to the ball joints. I eventually got the knuckle apart using a very large hammer! Unfortunately the top joint is also past it's best, so I've got both to do now. My ball joint splitter hasn't quite got the beef to press out the old joints unassisted. I smashed a 22mm spanner tightening the splitter. Going to get my brother to come round with his oxy set to introduce some heat in combination with the splitter. Hopefully that will do the job

Just starting this. I've read all of the reviewers that have used the standard ball joint remover with success and have opted to give that a go. I think the most difficult point of the job is splitting the steering knuckle, which is the point I'm at now. Hopefully an hour with a big hammer will do the trick

I've got a 5 litre and a 2.5 litre. I really rate them. I was going to buy another recently but the diff lock shop wasn't working. Have you bought yours from diff lock or gone somewhere else?

I'm using one of the older nanocom boxes linked to a cheapie laptop. Works fine for me

My disco has a 10p engine. I bought it on 60k It's on 186000 now and still going strong. It suffered with a cracked head at 85k other than that I've had no major issues with it.

I bought a TD5 90 tub off them. Overall the item is in ok nick for the price. The only issue is that on turning up at the pre arranged date and time there was no one around. I tried ro fet hold of the seller but his phone went to answerphone. I ended up loading the tub myself which was a bit of a struggle. No apology from the seller either

Perfect, thanks

Hi, Can anyone help me out with the part number for the 2nd row door stay on the offside for a puma 110 station wagon Ta

I'm on my second set of coopers in 100k. Im really impressed with them. They perform well on and off road and the wear rate is excellent. My first set were st's. They were replaced after 65k (still with good tread) with STT's on a bigger size. I should get 70k out of the new ones I hope

Absolutely correct. Make sure it is a pre-booked appointment. Cops (including me) will check with the testing station. No appointment = offence complete

Mike, Not sure I understand you fully. The wiring was very simple, just a case of terminating at the current location and routing to the new. There's plenty of room in the rear pillars for running the wires. The Devon rear bumper is already cut for the fitment of NAS lamps. I simply took the opportunity to put the reverse and fogs in the bumper and put later the upper clusters on as well

Hi, Fitted a Devon 4x4 hd bumper to mine. At the sime time I changed the rear light clusters to later types simply because I wanted the reverse lamps in the bumper. The reverse lamps in the earlier clusters were poor IMHO. The Devon bumper uses the NAS spec lamps. I think the result is much better. The wiring was very simple

Mike, I think I might have one of those pipes somewhere if you want it.

Has anyone replaced either the alpine or loadbay windows in a d2. What's involved? Is the common thought to take it to an autoglass fitter and have them do it?

Brilliant.... thanks

Hello, Has anyone got the part number for D2 Rear Quarter Bumper Trim Clips. I.E the clips that retain the small curved piece of plastic slightly above the rear bumper on the corners. Thanks Dave