wermy

How about changing the whole dash loom for one with the blade fuses ? It means taking the whole dash apart, but for my money it's just a plug in and no soldering. I picked up a loom from a K plate 90 to go in mine when time allows. I am also going to take advantage of the intermittent wipe feature while I upgrade. Mine has some random wires in there, which need to come out as I had to make some repairs when the lights went out.

Hi Al You are finally getting closer to your LEZ compliant motor at last. Have you discounted the manual bellhousing ? I can get access to a spare R380 bellhousing if you want some measurements taking. Cheers Alan

If you have tried turning everything and you still don't get anywhere, there is another thing to try. Has this replacement transfer box had it's input gear changed to a new improved splined one ? Been there and it wont close the gap as the shoulder won't go inside the new gear. Can you take the input gear out and confirm that it will actually go on

I changed fuel type, engine number and capacity earlier this year. They wanted the reciept for the engine and a note from a garage on headed paper to confirm that actual engine was fitted.

Even easier for £40 was to buy a Defender unit from RJ Landrovers. Saved loads of time, looks better and is small beer in the big plan. If you have got the mounts in the factory fit position it will all go in right. Biggest problem will be the seatbox which will need cutting if you are fitting the R380 as well. I have just changed mine for a later one as it will keep the draughts out this winter.

My V8 auto used to do 13 - 15 on petrol. When it was converted to LPG with a closed loop system it averaged 10.7 which at LPG prices was equivalent to the high twenties. It took me a day to hook it all up before we moved up here to Yorkshire. Tripped over the tank and all the bits the other day, must move it on.

Yes, the 300tdi was fitted in the same position on both vehicles

We all had to learn somewhere ! The great thing with the Defender is that it is so basic and best of all you don't need to jack it up to do things. When you go and order the parts have a look at the diagram and it should show you the gaskets and bolts holding the parts together. If you pipe has rotted away you might be good to buy the joining bolts. If it doesn't come apart just cut the bolts or better still look for a nut splitter. There are fairly cheap and can split rusted nuts in seconds.

Yes the transfer boxes are universal fit even on the autoboxes. Fit the gearboxes in the usual position to keep everything standard. Then you just have tochange the engine mounts. Don't bother with the R380 crossmember and tunnel. The gearbox hangs on the same mounts that the donor had. Use a V8 LT85 tunnel as they are cheaper or retain the LT77 one as I believe that you can get it to just fit over the auto.

Yes they do exist and deliver, admitedly the parts never had to leave these shores

My change of fuel to diesel was notifiable and shows as 'Heavy Oil' but still as a 110 V8 as the model. The chassis is a replacement part. What the DVLA is after is the 'H' plate suffix with a coil spring chassis measuring 90 inches with a Rangie Classic body on it that's tax exempt ! I knew of one a couple of years ago.

What did the V5 say different once the DVLA had re-issued it ?

Have you got a drive to work on ? I did all my rebuild outside on the front drive and then the same when I decicded to go from V8/Auto to 300tdi/R380

Spot on reb, shame we didn't read your post fully Reminds me of college when the lecturer told us to read the question first and then answer it !

Yep the 200Tdi is the easier swap. The 300Tdi requires new engine mounts or I have seen one post where the guy builds a bridging bracket. The bracket fastens on the same chassis bracket and fits around the oil filter to mount on the 300's mount point. It was a stunning piece of fabrication. The 200Tdi uses the original engine mounts and just requires a few changes to the flywheel housing to mate it to the original gearbox. The plumbing then stays the same, which is another challenge on the 300Tdi with original mounts. Whichever way, the 200/300 transplant will give you an excellent drivetrain. Most people say to keep away from the electronics on the TD5, but for many it's a really flexible motor. Be prepared to pay strong money for the TD5 in the region of 3 times the 200/300 money. Keep us posted on your progress

Richards chassis would get my vote and a really friendly gang if you actually get to see their workshop. I bought my V8 chassis off them and they were really helpful when I came to change it to a 300/380. One thught I had was to see if you can get another set of 300tdi engine mounts welded in the right position for the 380 gearbox just in case you make the change.

My vote is for an engine crane in through the door Just a rope looped front and back of the main / transfer box and knock the crossmember out before lowering. You have a lot more control over the whole process and you can twist it all so that it line up.

Make sure you get the 4.7mm ones as the local car shops usually only sell the newer ones which are smaller. Another place to buy is VehicleWiring Products, where I got mine. They come in crimp or solder if you want to make a really secure job of it

Yeah the Mondeo fan is too big for the 300Tdi. If you put the mondeo shroud directly on the radiator it hits the spigot. I scrapped the idea after reading others logic between viscous and electric. It read as 'electrics fanscan die but viscous units lock up so will never cook your motor'

I second giving Richards Chassis a call. I got my 300Tdi ones from them,about £45 including delivery

There is a guy in Canada who has put all the spring dimensions on the web. This info has been there for ages. All credit to the guy it is really useful. http://rovers.red90.ca/springinfo.html It sounds like you have a lift set, as they should be about the same length fully extended as the softer ones. The only difference is they don't compress so fast when you lower the vehicle.

No need to change the gauge. No guesses for how I know Just get the Defender 300TDi sender AMR3321, only costs a few quid and fits the taper threads. I got mine from an Island in the far South.

Just done the 300/380 conversion on my 110V8. I went off to Richards chassis who supplied me with the original galv chassis for the V8. I bought a galv gearbox crossmember which puts the boxes in the right position for the original props. Whilst there I measured a couple of there 300tdi chassis and the engine mounts are 62cm from the front member. Also bought some of their engine mounts as well. The engine mounts are universal as my motor is out of a Disco. If the engine goes in the right position and the gearbox sits on the crossmember then all should line up. I found the sticks came up 1 1/2 inches further back than the V8 tunnel so ended up buying a 300tdi/TD5 tunnel. Maybe you got sold a V8 tunnel ? I had the same intention as you to make is as factory fit as possible, having had an EFi / Auto in my 86 110 it made parts a challenge. The seatbox is my only problem now as it had to be cut at the front to clear the gearbox.

Go for the older vehicle, you've got less to loose when you scrap the chassis. As you have already said the end product will be so much better. You can then get the chassis for the engine of choice. If I did a rebuild again I would definitely go that route again

My Richards chassis was delivered by them, for I think £75 five years ago. I lived in Bristol then so it was over 200 miles. The guy was driving a Peugeot estate and had the axle and A frame as described. Mine was last drop and it had supported another few for delivery on the way. You can then spend your time stripping the Landy down whilst waiting for it. That's what I was doing with mine, by the time the new one mine was all in bits ready to move the new one into place.