jackmac

Co2 extinguisher

So was common opinion that the £25 yellow and black one is a good buy? Unfortunately the one mutley has bought is another 20 quid

That's where i've found my uvex goggles hopeless. Despite having an 'anti-scratch' coating, they scratch badly even when just wiping a dirty finger over them

Very jealous of you being out there, we're aiming for adventure class 2017

What are you using the land rover for?

If it's just for security, you don't need a kill switch, you just want an isolator. I would look at the Albright isolator solenoids, they're not much money and it means instead of having a great big kill switch everybody can see fitted only where you can route thick battery cable to, you can have a little switch of your choosing fitted wherever you like.

Quite a few people out there running LS3 / LS7 with an LT230. Not sure what gearbox goes in between though but there must be a common solution, the only one I know of for sure is an £8000 quaife sequential box

See here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=93071 Make sure it's not just that the axle end hole has been elongated though. I replaced the bushes in mine only to find that hadn't really improved things at all

I've done the same with a rivet once, luckily I could just about knock it back out. Now I just drill them out completely, much easier.

Vacuum pump?

Loosely on the subject, does anybody have any recommendations on a beam torque wrench for doing the tensioner? I have a draper one, but it's designed for far higher torques than this which makes it hard to get it accurate.

Hmm, ok thanks. Planning on doing the tensioner & therefore inspecting belt every 2 years / 5000 miles as it's used a lot off road and will probably get carp in the timing case despite me sealing it as best I can, I'll keep an eye on it

I couldn't see a damn thing when I tried that, maybe be a very dull belt. How much fluff is normal? My belt was brand new about 1.5k miles ago, noticed a small amount of fluff last time I took wading plug out

They have the backlash written on the crownwheels, and have been checked with engineers blue by the builder. Since the blue was still on there I know they are making proper contact I'll pull the front prop and give that a go

Well even Nige couldn't answer that one, we think they might be from across the pond. If it were just the cut of the gears, would you expect the noise to decrease over time? Speaking to manufacturer / builder is not an option, as I don't know who they are!

Hi all, Just finished fitting a pair of diffs into my 90 with HD 4.11 ring and pinion, new HD front shafts, new ashcroft CVs, new HD drive flanges. When I was looking at the diffs, I noticed that there was a tiny bit of burring on some of the crownwheel teeth from the manufacturing process. Now it's all fitted and back on the road she's playing a tune! Constant whistling noise, but definitely not tyre drone, that seems worse under engine braking. It's not loud, but certainly noticeable and wasn't there before. The ring and pinion are new, in diffs that were built up (professionally I think) a year and a half ago with new bearings etc but never fitted. The front diff in particular seemed very tight. Front prop is new (under 1k miles), rear prop has a touch of play in one UJ but I think the noise sounds like it's coming from the front - it's one of those ones that's very hard to tell :/ My castor angle on the front is pretty terrible, but never had a problem with pinion bearings before so I'm assuming it's not that. Would it be reasonable to assume that this might just be high points etc on the gears making the noise?

I'd probably get some cable with a bit more than 1 amp rating... Think the fuses on mine are 5A so cable bigger than that

Grr, what a waste of tyres! Why put £2000 of tyres on something that can never leave the tarmac because it will rip itself to shreds... shouldn't be allowed!

I've got a pair of those numax bigger brothers. Been fine so far, I'd love a pair of odyssey but need to win the lottery first! http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV31MF-P3694.html

Found it! Very expensive for what it is, I'll try the local dive shops and hydraulics place on Saturday. http://www.divers-warehouse.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/50866/cPath/1182?osCsid=4jp7aq1pdnlg16v2fd6pj26ap4

Hi Mike Yes I came across your thread quite early on in my search and meant to send you a PM the other day! I'm not sure mine is the same thread though. From what I've read, JIC is exactly the same thread as UNF just with a 'pointy hydraulic style' end (not sure what the technical term is there!). 7/16 UNF is 11mm diameter on the male thread i think, whereas I've measured mine and it's not that big :/ So do you have the 1/4 NPT bulkhead fitting, then the compression nut, then an adaptor to BSP, then the airline fitting?

I'm trying to work out how to make my ARB lockers take a 1/8 BSP connector so that I can use 6mm airline to them. I've not got the full bulkhead kit on either locker, which is part of the reason for wanting to convert them. The bits I have fitted are the bulkhead fitting (1/4NPT to take a 3/16" copper pipe), and the compression fitting that goes into that which I am fairly certain is 3/8 UNF. I cannot find anywhere an adaptor that goes from 3/8 UNF male to 1/8 BSP female, or even female to female (which would make the fitting quite long). I've started looking at maybe fitting an ashcroft bulkhead kit instead, unfortunately it's not a direct replacement. Their copper pipe is 4mm whereas the ARB one is 4.76mm, so I'd need to run a drill through the fittings and hope they sealed up afterwards. Anybody got any ideas / done the same? I know Mr. Bump (Nige) was selling an adapter kit at one point but it doesn't seem to be for sale at the moment

Goodwinch, rac parts, red winch, Whitbread offroad were all around there. The first 2 probably sell bits like that

Steve, so the easiest way for me to fit the old style 24 spline flanges into my new style (TD5) 24 spline axles, is to buy the KAM flanges? Wouldn't need to change my hubs or axle casings?

It's held in by an expanding clip, just needs some force to pop out. I'll let others advice on how to apply this force since the last one I tried I took a chunk out of the cv cage and still never got the shaft out