Turbocharger

What happened?

Found it - it's the splines on the outer end of the halfshaft Cheap fix - shame he didn't find it before changed the diff three times

A friend of mine moved to a new flat and found his neighbour's unsecured wireless connection which he used for a while until he bought his own router from ebay. The new unit arrived, he set it up, logged in and secured it so no pikeys can access it and steal his internet. Except his eblag router doesn't work and he's actually secured his anonymous neighbour's router to all comers, including himself and presumably the original owner. Oops.

Hmm. More info. He reckons the handbrake doesn't work either, but I've seen photos of the rear diff and shafts, no problems there.

I think you'd run into tracking issues very quickly with two rams for the rear axle, for theoretically no gain - the resistance of the rear wheels is the same if they are toed-out or just locked with the brakes. The Eagle jeep belongs to Bathtub Pete, who has been known to post on here when taunted - he might be better able to explain his steering.

If they want it, they'll take it. Cover it in dents and undermaintain it so nobody wants it - my plan.

After little bro drove middle bro's Ninety across a roundabout there was a bang and no drive. In gear when the clutch is lifted there's a crunching banging sound and no drive. With the centre diff locked, it drives fine. I expected a halfshaft or diff, but he pulled the rear axle bits out, all is confirmed ok and needs no dental work. Excellent, but also bad. Further diagnosis shows neither propshaft is turning when the diff is unlocked and the banging noise is summoned. When the diff is locked, both props turn. What's broken and how do I fix it? I guess centre diff, but is it rebuildable? I have a spare T-box which is full of swarf.

... daylight. I know various people on here from living up north, in the Southwest and being a tight student willing to drive hundreds of miles to avoid paying list price for cheap bits which subsequently break and cost me more than new in the long term. Various members of the Southwest crew, Horsham lot, and I've met Will Warne too. The first time I think someone was looking at his welding, actually. Oh, and Dave Lovejoy is my dad.

Friction damping is always going to be a bit crude though - has anyone tried mounting an old LR shock absorber from the end of the crossmember to the A-frame of the trailer? Just a thought.

I once met Fridge in a layby near Sodbury, three weeks before the Sortout, after an encounter with the Stig. He came in a concours Series 3 but when I stepped back and squinted, through his aura it looked like a beaten-up Nissan Primera. Strange. He tried to sell Shires membership to me then, too.

My dear father made his own from two plates and a pinch bolt to adjust the friction, with a piece of steel bar which slid in a bush on the caravan. When not in use it folded sideways along the bumper of the car.

I have some sketch drawings for a superlight trialler, a ladder chassis (literally, using a ladder), a small generator and four bicycle wheels with electric wheel motors and pushbike chain drive. The axles can then be tiny poxy box section with leaf springs - the lightest way to suspend and locate the axles. Chuck a seat on top and a little steering box (handlebars?) on the front and put a young whelp in the seat to hang on. 200kgs?

I joined the offroad scene in 1996/97 ish and everyone had SATs or Pluggas. When I got a set of crossply SAGs I thought I was the boy since they were fractionally taller and otherwise just as good in the mud. On the road in the wet, they made the SATs look like proper road tyres by comparison though...

At low pressure differences (ie not 2500 bar!) I think that feed pressure will have an effect on cavitation - hence why hydroelectric power station pumps are below the level of the lower lake (ie Dinorwig). However, it's a gamble to have a box full of hot pressurised oil behind your head I feel.

With LR panel gaps, would there be a tangible security increase?

If the inlet manifold pressure is reaching 1bar and not dropping away at very high revs, you're not restricted by intake diameter.

If you zoom right in on Paintshop and inspect the top cap on each one, you can clearly see that in the top pics it's the right-hand one that's unscrewed, and the left-hand one in the lower pics. That's the difference, and clearly worth the premium in my eyes. Seriously, I'd expect the difference to be in the metallurgy. The Chinese are very good at copying something very accurately dimensionally but most copies don't share the same properties as the German/English/etc version.

Sounds like I shouldn't give my opinion without having seen the 'state of the art' technology then...

Seems I'm not terribly dot.hip these days, what's a torrent?

Is there a www.topgear clip for those of us without telly?

Rule of thumb from my IC engines lecturer - a third of the fuel's energy is coolant heat, a third of the energy is exhaust heat, a third of the energy appears at the flywheel (and in the manufacturer's propaganda). So yes, that's >100hp of heat dissipated by the radiator in a Tdi.

I find for a 'spherical' glow they're very good but for a directed beam of light you can't beat a proper bulb I'm afraid.

A friend of mine ran a rear rad in a hardtop, taking air from the floor and exiting through the rear door using fans. He found at low speed the fans were running all the time, so went for a roof scoop and exiting through the rear floor ahead of the crossmember. In both cases the biggest benefit he saw was no mud clogging the rad all the time.

A supplier who has taken his eye off the ball and admits it? Where's the 'problems with our suppliers' line, the whinge about the price of steel, the complaints about a few poor customers on a smear campaign? Posts like that make me seriously consider using a supplier, because of the genuineness and honesty which can make up for problems which might not crop up with a larger supplier's call centre. Well done Tim.

Food for thought- somebody at work pointed out to me today that the 'click' type torque wrench can click at the wrong torque based on where you hold the handle, especially if the 'click' pivot is far from the nut or bolt you're tightening. No contribution to this discussion but bears mention if torque is absolutely critical.