Team Idris

It has to wear off the machining marks to move free I guess. It isn't mentioned in forums, but they are very odd to use. Difficult to figure when to engauge? I get more places with both than one, but not by much. When you're sat on the diff skids they don't help! So the front really only serves 2 purposes; backing out of ditches when full weight is on the front and helping the rear fiddle brakes to break traction when turning tight. And it's a game of chess, as like the centre diff, you may want it dissengauged if mud is followed by a tight turn. You chance the mud knowing locks won't be instant dissengauge. So it's another device that you have to learn how to use, and what you learn is probably specific to your driving style It has taken me quite a few hours of use to figure out what it can do for us! They are good though. Should have been an OE option from 1948

I'm all the gear and no idea at the moment Terry isn't fit enough for winch man at the moment, and he paid for the rebore. So to go challenging without him would be like mega rude. Was thinking of SORC trial at Shrewsbury on 29th? Anything to keep the rubber turning really.........

Ah ha! I nearly wasnt making it up http://www.lrseries....EARING-KIT.html Shows a slim looking seal. You fit the outer bearing, then a thick washer with a D shaped hole, then the seal, then the nut, then adjust and so on. Greece stays in the bearing, oil stays in the flange to lube the quarter shaft splines. I was sat here thinking that I was sure there was a seperating seal, and that I bought some, and they didn't fit the prefix 'A' I needed for ashcroft CV's, and that I grumped at my wasted cash But no idea if the axel you have there takes them?

I thought there was a seal in there, so I'm going mad. And I've got the early axels and they don't have a quarter shaft seal either. my appologies for suggesting it had one there. But I think there is a chrome ball axel with a seal in the end? Prefix 'B'? But it is in a daft place by the wheel bearing nuts. Enough of my minds tricks though! How is the hub seal-path looking?

Yep It's a dog clutch designed to hold itself in drive under load. The 'dog' drive faces are normally cut back slightly by say 2 degrees, to force this locking action. My KAMs are the same. The fix is a clutch pack, like what tractors have. That's the sort of diff lock I would like in my landy

"can be used to maintain oil pressure" Time to dry sump it Zim 34psi on tickover and 44 at rev. Its the FUTURE

A cad drawing of the ally housing gasket is now in the CAD archive. I know you clever bods in-need will soon edit the dxf into a billet take off plate file p.s. It was a right fiddley thing to draw

No replies is a bad sign Maybe see what else can be made to fit? You may get lucky with a bit of tinkering if the right ones arn't available I seem to remember that they file down okay? And solder a spacer sheet into the carrier to go smaller?

A cab side winch led me to 2 tubes, which line up nicely with Malcolms W rope hoop. But given the way you are laid out, the above part joined to the roof X with a single tube sounds best In the unlikely event I ever made it to a third winch, I laid it out so that the top winch will run to the back rollers if my main rear winch failed. I see folks do good stuff with loops on the top corners as well? The 80's bolwer design took me a different way to this place; I recon if the msa say no to combined roll cage/winch points later on, I'm part way there.

The quarter shaft seal doesn't look to be working, but even if it fails, the oil shouldn't be coming out of the stub axel seal. If oil can escape the wheel bearing space, then water can get in to the wheel bearing greece. Something must have gone wrong with the new stub axel seal that is fitted into the hub. Has the stub axel got rough where the seal sits?

They look rather nice Snap; I've got Banner traction batteries on the truck at the moment in old-ford-transit size. They are glass matt gell units, which is a change up in tech for me! Seem good though. They seem happy with the charge diode as well? I must be on fourth or fifth battery tray? You get used to changing them after a bit. It's probably had more trays than oil filters

My argument against greece is getting water back out of the hub? But if you don't wade, then one shot seems the logical stuff Body filler for me too. It isn't just the challace cost, but all the bearings as well. Bottom half of chrome was okay ish, and top was pitted, so why not join the yota boys with a bit of modern two pack tech? Call it a step up from just throwing seals at it. And a chance to free off all the bolts if it doesn't work

"was thinking of keeping the OME +5 shocks at the rear and the +2" OME shocks at the front. Just because something isn't lifted doesn't mean you cant have articulation ??" Sounds fair to me "The V8 has cranked front arms" If they are caster correction arms I guess that doesn't help, but may give it too much self steer? But I'm guessing.

I'll probably get flamed to death for this suggestion, but put a repair washer through the hole on a bit of wire. Pull it tight to the inside and mig it up. Unless you think it is too thin to take a micro local repair, then skin it in 2mm sheet with holes for jack, hitch and handles and ditch all the little holes? If you hadn't got the hitch 'V' brace, then I wouldn't be suggesting the local repair at all, and even a local patch would be right out.

So the oil cooler goes on our Terry's D2, and we buy another, plus housing. All is good There was some interest in having a remote filter by folks...............(and us initially) So I drew up the hole pattern...........(I'll stick it the CAD archive when I am sure it is right) And I am thinking of a 3/4" ally plate that bolts to the side of the block with two 1/2" bsp ports for oil and one for the heater water. But I don't fancy manufacturing a few myself at the minute. (enough invested in fairleads )So before I pester my boss to see if work wants to make some, who would like one? Thinking of you Mike

I nearly beleive exactly the same, except I think the water enters as high temperature steam from the manifold. And that it causes no harm at all until it condenses in the cap. I drilled the body not the cap and connected it to a cheap compressor (£5) on a dash switch. Obviously the compressor needs to be in a dry place There are two drain holes on the RV8 and many other distributors are probably the same. So i blocked one and ran a breather pipe to the other. Which is a lot more risky, as the spinning weights are in there. And this was an after-thought/improvement last year, the basic pressure idea working well for years. I hear vacuum works well, but pressurising it slightly felt better? 12 volt fish pumps should be perfect but are apparently AC Super heated steam can get in anywhere air can. If you wade deep remember that the brake master cylinder has a vacuum-break valve when you loose the pedal. We think it will be around the rod area and can let water into the diaphram. It's a bit off topic, but it is a thing that you don't see mentioned. But if all you want is to keep going with water been thrown around by the belt, then pressurising works well

I left the second pipe off and havn't seen any loss. On my 1991 Pinto engined ford transit that second hose is way more important. There it is cold running ignition-advance with a thermal air valve in the top hose. Small hoses go all directions to plastic 'things'. It couldn't be replicated with one in-tube devise which looks supicously like a flame trap? I bet it is a flame trap as the carb fuel could be exposed to the electrics via a worn advance rod? So my vote is for a; diaphram breather pipe.

Far simpler I hope. Arn't there core plugs down the side of the engine there? Normally there are core plugs on both sides and all around an engine. They have to get the casting sand out somewhere, so they give us some cheap bungs that rust out If it wasn't really stinky hot, then head gaskey may be okay. 2 1/4 is pretty tough, being a diesel strength petrol engine.

ZF steering pump will in therory be 1600psi there abouts, where as the hydraulic pump could be 3000psi. So the power steer pump splitter would need near twice the ram surface area and travel half as fast. (ish). I would think 20 litre/min at full hydraulic pressure would be a good starting point? As above, an ebay engine is probably as cheap as PTO kit.

Yes, I remember now it being mentioned as okay. It suprised me as it went against the grass roots concept? Here's the rules for LRS, which show 36" tyres, so I was guessing wrong there. (UK Landy only clubs are 33" and a load of other extra rules) 9. TECHNICAL REGULATIONS All vehicles must comply with the current MSA technical regulations and must have four wheels, all driven, and pass scrutineering before starting the event. The maximum vehicle width shall be 2000mm (78 ¾ inches). The maximum tyre diameter shall be 915mm (36 inches). Portal axels, four wheel steering and/or duplicate drive wheels are not allowed. All competitors must comply with P55.1.9. The use of winch sails and gloves is compulsory. Crash helmets are to be used if a solid roof is not fitted. The helmet must comply with K10.1. Competitors in ALL classes must use a ground sheet when working/repairing vehicles and carry a small spill kit complying with J5.20.13. (P57.5.3.) Personal Protective Equipment is highly recommended. The use of wire (metal) winch cable is prohibited. ONLY synthetic rope is allowed on any fitted winch on the competition vehicle. The main thing is the MSA rules. They insure the bulk of events, so if you comply with those you should be ready to race.

I would think LRS, as it says no to portal axels and hydro steer and tyres over 35" so it tends to be less crazy. (Check tyre size with LRS is I'm not 100%)

I'm chassis painting at the moment, as I noticed it was a bit icky under there when I did the front springs. While under there this morning I decided the centre suppport was so bad I would cut out the remanents. Front and rear are okay as the ends are blocked at the wheel box by the virtical panel braces. Centre was stuffed. The plan is to get a Paddocks S2 one, which is known to be wrong. Then modify it to make it line up with the ally bed braces, plus make it a bit stronger and maybe bolt together in two halves so I can fit it with the tub on. Theres nothing left to rivet it back on in the middle. I'll lay a strip of damp course plastic between support and tub to stop interaction I think.

AHA! Cooler corroded around O ring so the internal O rings popped. The housing has not corroded at the same point, but it has where it goes to the block. So we think best to get a 'complete' package. The housing works out about £140, so not worth welding and milling flat, given the trouble it could cause loosing coolant. Not to mention risk of swalf in the galleries from milling! I have the old housing here all cleaned up. I hope to make a CAD drawing of the hole pattern so anyone on here can get a 19mm ally plate water jetted out. Then you can fit a remote filter housing and the spinner if you feel the need?

Woohay, long timey no speaky. I thought about you, being a Td5 man Same here with the external dry cooler idea. Shelves of Serc coolers at work, but how easy to exit the block's oil galleries? So I wrote to Andy Allisport to see if he had any fixes or advice. Nothing back yet, and maybe being a road motor it's best to stick with normal-ish parts. Really it hinged on how the outside of the ally housing looked? Is it plain or is it covered by the spinner and oil filter? Would it need a sandwich block? I'm keen to see what the banjo bolts do, so hopefully Terry will ring us when its in bits

http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/061/SubProducts/%22Rivet%20Option-0001%22 That looks a usefull resource If they are interchangable I like the galvo option, but if it needs welding, I like the painted. I see they do the back body mount strip as well at £21 + vat, which means it isn't worth making one at work !