Nigelw

The panels are screwed and bonded with some sort of mastic, whoore of a job and a massive ammount of patients required not to bend them as you pull them apart!!! Make sure you have a retractable box knife with the disposable break off blades so you can slit your way between the panels. Forgot, it helps to remove the rear bumper.

Has anyone managed to any degree of success to reseal a leaking power steering box? My problem is with a LHD power steering box on a 1992 Discovery, it is running out from the shaft that attaches to the drop arm, so far 450 euro and prices over and a good way above have been quoted but I am not shy of spending the money, just more curious as to whether I could affect a remedy myself? Any help greatly received.

It depends on what your cooling requirements are? It sounds like you are running electric fans already as you say you do not need the viscous fan fitting on the pump, STC4378P this is a pump that I fitted for a mate, fitted really well and has been running for over 5 years now despite it being less than a third the price of most others I saw advertised. If you are looking to cut the shaft down then do it gradually with a hacksaw, an angle grinder will put too much heat into the shaft and will ruin the seals. Sorry it seems to have taken so long for someone to answer but been busy rebuilding the timing chest on a friends 200Tdi this weekend.

What was the engine from originally? My 200Tdi turbo sits about 5 inches behind the shock turret.

Is it possible to have the power steering box refurbed or am I wasting my time? I am not shy of spending money but when I can't seem to get a completely delivered to my door price below 550euro I am thinking I am doing something wrong!!! It's for a LHD 92 Disco and it seems there were 2 types fitted and hell if I can find out which is which? Any ideas?

I am in the market for a LHD steering box from Adwest but as it works out it will be more than 550Euro by the time it gets here!!! good price or not?

Almost two weeks ago I questioned this theory Dave, I currently have one 12V lead acid battery in my deep freeze and when I put it in it had 12.2V on my volt meter, so we will see what it reads after christmas, I think that will be long enough? Won't I look a pillock if he was just yankin my crank!?!?!?!?!!?!

All the parts you have spoken of are pretty much off the shelf replacement parts, it really just depends on how much you want to spend on it? put £500-600 of new parts and a couple of weeks(if you do it bit by bit) to do it and you will have a nice serviceable engine that will do another 70,000miles, the problem with S/H engines is that most are worn out and often the case with older cars, the older it gets the less maintenance it sees and it is run on a fix what's broken attitude, would not surprise me if you bought another and had same or only slightly better when opened up. If you want a good reliable engine, spend a few pound on this one, or buy another(costing you again), and potentially have to re-build that one instead It's all money and time just depends on what you want from the engine once it is running also.

I am not any type of an expert here, but,and this is a big but, by the book the MOT tester is obliged to fail it for that type of repair. No matter how you dress it up, the book says that any repair should be to manufactured standard or higher, boot floor spot welded in and sealed not bonded, its a weld repair not a bonding exercise. before you say it is a good enough repair and it is legal, and so and so did it and it's fine, it's not legal and it's not fine, I bought an old 1991 D1 for a grand with 3 months on the ticket and when it re-test time, the previous MOT test station got a ministry visit after my car failed for a sealed in boot floor, do it if you like but I have warned you!!! Besides you do not have to seam weld it in, just drill it and plug weld it onto good metal it is the same as a spot weld, or you can do inch long beads every 3-4 inches and just underseal it properly, thats what I did when I had to fit a new one after ruining the other when taking it out.

See this forum is far better for tech stuff. Thanks fellas.

I am not sure I am a believer in his skills as a panel beater, did the same job on a rotten RRC years ago, and even went to effort to finish the back of the roof with what I cut off to make it look better than that!! Really want to see how little it goes for?

I have began my project at last but got a slight problem. Vehicle is a 1992 200Tdi Disco of below poverty spec. One of my relays is a little on the extra crispy side after the fire damage, it is part No. AMR2341 front wash wipe relay, it is red in color and lives in the drivers footwell(LHD) I need to know which color wires go to which terminal on the relay please, written is best(I am partially color blind so figuring out the wires is a bit hit and miss at the mo) but a picture to accompany would be nice. Thanks.

Is it this or that? Early or late for April fools day? Could this be a practice run? I cannot see it in european showrooms by 2013, unless it is there as a demonstrator for folks to drive round the car park in!!! Nissan maybe know something I don't but the laws regarding mechanical links from steering to road wheels will not just change over night for them!!! Unless it is an agricultural vehicle? My sands sprayer was hydrostatic steer.

I never thought of that, oops, just thought of a solenoid valve to shut the last tank off at 80psi would be right? where do I start with pressure regulators? Never encountered those before, well not knowingly anyway? Suppose hence my thinking.

But my question is this, why not begin by bringing those countries without tests in to the general theme of periodic testing first not just flat board the whole of the EU!!! For example take a basic MOT from the UK and begin implementing that in those countries first, slowly build pressure and momentum until you get what you want, TUV for all anyone?

I was talking with Her-In-Doors, and she thinks aircon might be nice? So infinite wisdom has lead me to hunt down ruthlessly a proper A/C pump for a 200Tdi with Vee belt, and now it seems the two pulleys are completely interchangeable and that they are available off the shelf from my local auto airco specialist. Should have just asked there in the first place I suppose

My mate Paul bought a tidy series 2, spent all last summer getting it ready for the TUV, (he lives 10Kms from Aachen) they failed it first time round due to it wearing 235/85X16 tyres, from that period they wore imperial tyres and 7.50X16 it had to be!!! He tells me they went through everything!!! they even scrutinised the use of electrical components!!! God help them if they'd ever MOTd my old RRC would have made their heads pop off!!!

Sorry, didn't explain myself very well, I have planned 2 tanks as I am going to recycle my 2 spent 10Kg fire extinguishers, I don't know what sort of volume that would be but they are quite big!! Also tested to 18BAR too. It is still an option to run the system to main tank at 120psi meaning that there is pressure and flow enough for air tools and set the other tank on a pressure solenoid to shut @80psi to do the diff locks. Hope I explained myself better.

By that then Jimmy do I take it this has been a much-a-do-about-nothing? Seems to be very glossy, but I do wonder whether there is an underlying hidden truth behind the shine

How poverty spec can you get for a 1992 D1? I thought they all came with central locking as standard? Or am I missing something?

Erm, location is a critical thing when using ebay, over here I can find diddly squat of what I actually want, looked for about a month or more and this one was the newest of all the Land Rover ones I saw, and they all had the flat serp belt pulleys!!! Excuse white paper towel in ports but don't want dirt getting in there. I have looked at pumps from all types of cars/vans and light trucks over here, but they are all fairly new and all have a flat serp type drive pulley, this came off a D2 that was only 6 or 7 yrs old.

So for me as I am going down the OBA route with an airco comp will I need a separate reservoir for the diff locks? I will be looking to run normal air pressures of up to 120psi from the pump.

Could always reverse bleed them if nipple is the wrong way up?