Boydie

Vulcan, I don't have one but wouldn't that info be in the service manual ?

Okay, I stand corrected - (never too old to learn even if today is my 69th birthday) I thought the block was common -- so are the oil pressures different ?

On my 300Tdi it's 8 psi at normal running temperature of 90*C and 750 rpm and 15 psi when the engine is stone motherless cold. , I don't think the 200Tdi would be much different as I believe they share the same oil pump. Driving at 90*C, 2500 rpm 5th gear @ 90 kph the oil pressure is 35 psi and when cold at the same speed, gear etc. it's 55 psi indicating that the oil relief valve is working and just cracked open.

Oh, with your alignment, a trick is to obtain some long bolts, about 150mm long cut the hex heads off, screw them into suitable locations on the engine block towards the top of the bellhousing and use them as guides as well as helping support the weight of box as you slide it onto the TC.

With the centrifugal governor just make sure that you disassemble it for cleaning on a clean surface (I use sheets of butcher's paper on my bench) and that you take careful note of the bits. if you have a phone camera take pics as you go so you can easily assemble it again correctly. You may be amazed at how much junk gets caught in it and if it is gunked up your gear changes will be a lot crisper.

I'm unable to comment as my system never had one, but if the manual say's to unscrew it then do it.

In your photo above you are looking at the oil pump - 1043 618 057/A To change it remove the bellhousing (12 bolts make note of their replacement location) the pump is directly behind - try not to disturb the main body of the box. Remove the 8 bolts that retain the pump housing to the bellhousing - tapping with a hammer may be called for to break the seal, You will need to use the serial number of the box to obtain a new oil pump assembly. Fill it with some ATF before fitting to ensure that it has lubricant in it., dont fit it dry as it could end up stuffed again. Ensure that the dowel is aligned to its hole in the intermediate plate, press the pump home in the rear of the bellhousing and refit the 8 retaining bolts to 10Nm - use a dab of blue grade Loctite on each. Refit the bellhousing to the gearbox with the 12 bolts to 46Nm again, use a dab of the Loctite. While you have the box out and on the bench I would also clean any accumulated gunk from the centrifugal governor at the rear of the box. The 9 bolts holding the extension housing (which contains the governor) to the gearbox are tightened to 23Nm, the mounting bracket bolts (4 off) if you have removed it are to 52Nm. The only replacement parts that you should require are "O" rings that I just selected from my metric "O" ring kit, the gasket I replaced with one I cut out of a sheet of .5mm gasket paper cutting the shape with scissors and the bolt holes with suitable wad punches. Have fun and ensure that when you replace the assembled box you don't make the same mistake as the last "mechanic" and ensure that the TC and gearbox input shaft are correctly aligned.

It could be the asymmetric spindle in the FIP sticking. The turbo produces air pressure this is transmitted via a small diameter hose to a diaphragm at the top of the FIP (under the square cover - 4 screws) this diaphragm pushes an asymmetric spindle down which in turn pushes a plunger to govern the amount of fuel supplied to the injectors. If this spindle is sticking it will give you a kangaroo ride. Remove the cover - carefully - check the diaphragm and spindle, note the EXACT position of the spindle and put it back in the EXACT same position. If it's been sticking there will be wear marks on it and on the plunger pin located at the engine front of the spindle. Lubricate the spindle and put a dab of engine oil on the pin, reassemble and test drive.

Apart from the cost of the bearings the actual work isn't too hard and you can overhaul your own box quite easily. The biggest hurdle is getting the sucker out and back in again. Read my thread on how I installed my Ashcroft ATB to get some clues. One thing I would look at if you have access to a good machine shop is putting a steel liner in the rear of the box for the intermediate gears shaft - the shaft tends to wear the case away and is a common oil leakage point. Also, the bottom two bolts on the cover plate, put a dab of liquid pipe sealant on them, even with loctite these two little suckers always leak as they are tapped direct into the oil pan - all the rest are "blind".

Don't be concerned about it not spinning freely, the bearing is packed with high temperature grease and will give a degree of turning resistance and it's a good sign that there is grease encased in the bearing, once it's installed it will very quickly free up with use. If it span easily I would be taking it back to the supplier!

Vulcan that's a tad harsh, however if, as you say you are getting flames coming out of your exhaust then either your injection timing is either too far advanced - only by a degree or so -- or too much fuel is being injected and consequently the unburnt fuel (i.e. too much fuel for the entrained air supply) is combusting once it is discharged into the exhaust system. Either way, your turbo temperature would be cooler due to the excess fuel burning in the exhaust system. Flame-outs are at a lower combustion temperature than the exploding diesel fuel under extreme pressure in the cylinder at TDC, hard to believe but true --- as an example Daihatsu used to set the computer to "over fuel" the factory Charade 3 cylinder turbo GTI rally car at over 10500 rpm to aid in cooling the exhaust valves and piston crowns and we had similar flame outs whenever we changed gear or the turbo relief valve popped off. I know, petrol powered but the same thing applies.

I agree with Daan, the standard intercooler is reasonably efficient and you can always have an upgraded core installed using the existing top & bottom cans. In extreme temperatures I "lock" the viscous fan to permanent drive to improve cooling and airflow over the radiator and intercooler and I've relocated the A/C condenser to the underside of the roof-rack.

The mad rabbit may well be right, there are very few traffic jams out my way and I never ride the clutch other than hill starts. In fact Julie and I mutter "bloody traffic" if we so much as see another vehicle during the 6 weeks we get away annually into the desert but it your traffic is that bad, and you are getting that degree of wear then you should be looking to replace your thrust bearings and/or clutch assy on a more regular basis. I would also be looking long and hard at the make and style and manufacturing quality of the bearing you install and certainly not using one out of a "blue bag". My Disco has dome well over 180,000 k's on this heavy duty clutch assembly and there is only a trace contact mark on the tines.

Oh dear, Landy Novice, just think about it for a moment. If the thrust bearing is in good condition the bearing outer race of the bearing will rotate at the same speed at the tangs on the spring (flywheel) when they came into contact with each other and little to no wear would take place. If however the thrust bearing is in worn, or has become dry with no lubrication ( a plague on "sealed for life bearings" ) then the bearing outer race will either not spin or will have friction resistance and will spin slower than the flywheel and the tangs will therefore become worn. Wear of this nature on the tangs IS NOT normal, it indicates that there is a problem with the thrust bearing. The problem may well be, as you said, due to excessive clutch use and therefore causing the bearing to overheat and use up all it's "high temperature grease" lubricant and run dry but in "normal" applications there should be little if any erosion of the spring tangs.

The temperatures indicated on your EGT guage very much depends on where the gauge thermocouple is located. If you have the thermocouple located in the plate (a common location, as mine is) and just before the turbo it will be at least 50*C higher than if you have drilled and tapped the manifold and have the probe located on the centre line of the turbo spindle. If you think that this temperature drop is large consider this, the actual combustion temperature of diesel with a boosted air supply is around 1300-1700*C, this is dependant on many factors, engine design, fuel injection volumes, boost air pressure and the altitude where the tests were carried out etc. - this extreme temperature is for milliseconds only and that by the time it comes to the exhaust stroke and it is discharged into the exhaust pipe/manifold it's dropped to around 850-900*C. You start to get the picture that once the energy has been converted into power/work it cools down quickly as it simply a hot gas. You can confirm this easily by driving full power up a hill and then feeling the exhaust temperature at the tail pipe with your hand - it's hot but not so much so that it will burn your hand but try to hand feel the manifold temperature and you can expect some lasting and agonising pain! Running at over 750*C for more than 5 minutes isn't advised by Garratt as the titanium blades on the turbo can warp. My 300Tdi runs at an INDICATED maximum temperature of around 820*C full power going up a local steep hill in 3rd gear, with 15 psi boost - however the actual turbo temp as measured by a borrowed school laboratory thermocouple on the C/L of the turbo spindle was actually around 760*C. Due to the location/proximity of the alternator and the tightest radius I could bend the thermocouple of my EGT gauge unit this location simply wasn't possible but drilling a 1/32" hole for a flexible thermocouple to check the actual turbo temperatures was comparatively easy as was blanking off this small hole after the test was carried out. Consequently if I keep my EGT gauge below an indicated 800*C I know that I'm not going to do any permanent damage.

Looking at the old bearing I think the inner race is missing which would explain the wear on the spring blades which is far from normal, even for a high milage clutch. Some early release bearing designs had a carbon "race" which would gradually wear away. Perhaps this was such a bearing, I know that Ford used these but I'm not sure about Land Rover, perhaps it's an aftermarket unit.

Oh, look for score marks in the master cylinder bore, if it is scored you have three options, buy a new one, buy a reconditioned one (ideally with a stainless steel liner) or thirdly get a small honing tool and hone the scores out and fit oversized piston cups. When I overhauled my Disco brakes I chose option 2 as the s/s liners last a lifetime and in my experience never score.

Let us know how things progress

I think a trip to your local Land Rover wrecker would be your only hope, from memory the thread is too coarse to be NPT or BSP and the ends on mine were double flaired as well so perhaps try a brake specialist - take a pump along with you.

In the alarm ECU is an "impact switch" that should you have an impact automatically turns the hazards on and opens all the electric door locks, I suppose this is a safety feature if your car in always on bitumen and heavy traffic but out in the bush with badly corrugated tracks mine was constantly going off - so I ripped it out and now happily forgo the remote door locking.

I have the blues. (200mm dia driving lights) I find that running with them on country and forest tracks while the illumination is vastly improved over standard lamps judging distances can be a bit dodgy, maybe it's just me but I wouldn't want to be driving really fast with them, I'm hanging out for a set of Ciebie long range driving lights when they come on the market.

If the manifold is aluminum its easy enough to get any crack welded up

If it is your immobiliser and you want to keep it, let me know the serial number, if it corresponds to the one I have gathering dust in my man shed you can have it.

You could have a blocked fuel pump filter. Lift up the rear carpet, unscrew the cover-plate and the very large (5" dia.) plastic nut and remove the fuel sender/fuel pump assembly. There is a "stocking" filter on the inlet to the pump, if this is blocked with crud it can lead to occasional fuel starvation = no fuel = no go --- Oh, and change your service station !

I don't think you can do a Camel cut with those flairs, from the ones I've seen a Camel cut involves the removal of the rear portion of the wheel arch to accommodate the additional axle movement and larger diameter tyres