Boydie

MIne is under the driver's seat - 1998 Series 1 Discovery and an ARB twin cylinder air compressor, I have a reservoir - (an "old" truck air tank) mounted under the floor strapped to the chassis rail, it works very well. The on/off switch and hose connection are mounted on the plastic seat base and the hose and accessories fit under the seat with the compressor

Thanks for the video Bowie, very sobering. As for the compensation, that will be some time off, the legal eagles won't even begin to cross swords until my recovery is deemed to be 90% as for the Philippino maid complete with short skirt, garter belt and fish-net stockings -- when I mentioned this attractive option to Julie she asked me if I hadn't suffered enough pain so I'm guessing thats a negative

Okay, you need tools wise you need:- 1.) A couple of brake line spanners, from memory 3/8"--1/4" and 5/16"--1/2" (these are like a ring spanner but with a cut-out for the tube to slot through) 2.) A double flaring tool set. 3.) A 5/16" hand pipe bender 4.) A small bore 1/4"-1/2" tube cutter. Materials, A.) 2 off 12 foot lengths of steel brake line ( i think your size is 5/16") but measure the diameter with a vernier caliper to make sure B.) around 6-8 new brake line unions, use your old ones to get the correct threads and bore. C.) Get a length of fencing wire, at least 10 feet in length. Note:- If your car's brake pipe isn't 5/16" make sure you get the right pipe bender to suit. Go to your local brake shop and ask them to show you how to do a double flare, this is essential before you start this job. Use steel pipe, it might corrode over the years but copper age hardens and can crack, here in Australia it's illegal for road use, I'm surprised its allowed in the UK. Use the fencing wire to make a template from the ABS to the rear "T" and any other brake lines you have to replace. Bend the brake pipe to suit leaving a good 6" of straight pipe at each end. Slide on the brake pipe fitting (make sure its facing the right way, thread to the open end of the pipe) cut the pipe to the correct length with the tube cutter, swage out the burr at the pipes end and do the double flare(s). Fit the pipe, do the same for the other pipes to be replaced. The worst part of this job, with an ABS will be bleeding air out of the system, my guess is you will be able to get some tips on how best to do that once you've installed your new pipes, by the way, fit new hoses as well, if the steel pipes are corroded the rubber hoses will be close to their use by date as well. .

Agreed, all four front air bags in the Skoda deployed and the engine / transmission ended up under the floor-pan as designed. Both vehicles were written off, the Skoda engine was seriously damaged but amazingly all four doors were operable. I wonder what my injuries would have been had I been driving the Disco? 950kg as against 3.5 tonnes, a designed deformable structure as against a twin steel railed chassis? I think the other driver would have died, just how I would have fared is another matter and open to conjecture.

Thanks to yo all for your good wishes, as the late great Dave Allen said, "if only the good die young then I'm here for a bloody ling time yet" and his other classic was "may you pass through the pearly gates an hour before the devil knows you're dead" Prognosis is I've got at least six months of physio - hydro and land exercise ahead of me before I can walk properly again and without discomfort and 18 months before I do things subconsciously - for example the hardest thing for me to do at the moment is putting on my socks, my spine being so restricted my bending motion is severely hampered, in time my new found method to overcome this will be just second nature. Julie and I have had to put off any thoughts of trips out into the deserts for this year, until I'm confident that I can dig the Disco out of a deep sand dune its simply not possible. Again thanks for you wishes and STAY AWAKE at the wheel, please !

Is a dog a legal entity ? Many years ago, around 2007 shortly after my ex and I had amicably separated I had to go to the local council to register my new address for election purposes, here I should point out that voting in all elections in Australia is compulsary, you cop a heavy fine for not voting! In filling out the forms and out of sheer boredom (the queue was endless) I filled out another form citing Mr and Mrs Hamish and Morag MacTavish - the two West Highland terriers jointly owned by my ex and I. Some months later I received and very annoyed phone call from the ex wanting me to explain how our two dogs had been each sent a fine for failure to vote at the recent council elections - so much for their checking

Some of you may have noticed that I've been absent for a while. Old joke :: I'd like to die like my grandfather, peacefully in his sleep, not screaming like the other passengers in his car ! I was driving in Julies Skoda Fabia VRS to get my morning coffee and paper, Saturday 13/2/2016 at 7.43am when a young male nurse in a Toyota Corolla swerved over the concrete divider in the road and drove into me head on at around 80 kph. Now, just before the impact I had slowed down for some traffic lights, and accelerated back up to around 75 kph so our impact/terminal speed was around 155 kph or, if you like a closing speed of about 400 meters in a second, it doesn't leave much room for evasion. He had just come off an 18 hour double shift at the local hospital and was driving home, he fell asleep at the wheel moments after stopping for a red light. The impact was such that his car pushed mine back past my braking marks, he never touched his brake, asleep his foot was pressed down on the accelerator and as a result he had to have his lower leg amputated as the bones in his right foot were crushed beyond any remedial surgery. The result of this is, for him a loss of his career, he can no longer work as a nurse with a prosthetic right foot. My injuries, 17 broken ribs, only 3 had no breaks, the rest had one or multiple fractures, My sternum was split in three places. A single green stick fracture to my right arm, 3 bones in my left foot and two in my right foot cracked, both knees had compression damage. One tooth missing (just before the impact I had presence of mind to let go of the steering wheel and cross my arms, the steering wheel air bag caused my wrist watch to smack me in the mouth and break it off at the gum). Lumber 5 vertebrae was crushed to 60% of its normal size, this entailed a spinal operation to fuse L3; L4; L5 & S together with 8 screws and 2 titanium rods. The spinal discs were removed and replaced with cement - so, as a result I've grown 1.5mm - there has be be some benefits I guess ! My prognosis is good, I'm now back home after 35 days in hospital and I'm walking and undergoing physio. In about 3 months I'll be able to drive again and in six months I should be back to normal, with a total fully recovery period of 18 months. The moral of my tale, if you feel just a tiny bit weary, pull over and have a power nap, dont risk having a micro sleep, you may just never wake up.

I would have preferred that you used 18 off 1.5 mm stainless steel 314 grade flat washers on the head bolts rather than reducing the length of thread, other than that you seem to have done everything right. Good traveling :-)

My guess is that the main bearings have worn in the R380 allowing the output shaft to float. That's what was the problem in mine anyway.

Okay, Newbie, read the thread on this site I wrote regarding cylinder head gaskets. There are 4 available, they are as follows:- 1 hole. ERR5261; 1.3mm thick. This gasket is for piston protrusion 0.50 mm - 0.60 mm 2 hole. ERR5262; 1.4mm thick. :: :: :: :: 0.61 mm - 0.70 mm 3 hole. ERR5263; 1.5mm thick. :: :: :: :: 0.71 mm - 0.80 mm (this is the most common 300Tdi cylinder head gasket) 0 hole. ERR7154; 1.6mm thick. :: :: :: :: if over 0.81 mm Okay, if your cylinder head has been skimmed in excess of 0.50 mm toss it away, the valves can strike the pistons with cataclysmic results. To measure the piston rise, the best way is with a dial gauge and magnetic base. Set the base midway between two piston, zero it on the block face and then turning the engine over slowly measure the piston rise above the block, Do this for all four pistons, they can vary. If you dont have a dial gauge, clean the crowns of the pistons, turn the engine over and with a 150 mm steel rule held flat on each piston using feeler gauges measure the rise ( the distance from the underside of the ruler to the block face) The pitting on you block needs to be rectified. clean out the pitting with neutralized acid - obtain a small bottle, about 250 ml and use a small nylon brush to apply it to the pitted surface, (natural hair will disintegrate very quickly). Wash the acid away after the pitting is clean with clean water and dry thoroughly - make sure that NO acid/water gets into any of the the bores "plug" them up tightly with oily rags. Next, once all the pitting has been cleaned using normal ladies nail varnish fill in the pitting, this will take several coats, allow each to dry before applying the next coat. With a NEW FLAT wet stone, lap the varnish flat, you can use the course side first and then finish with the fine, again ensure that no grit gets into the bores. It you existing head can be machined then do so and carry out this same procedure to fill in any pitting, DO NOT use acid, just a stainless steel wire brush and fill in the pitting prior to having the head machined. If you ever have reason to have the engine block out of the car have a good TIG welder fill in the three triangular water holes in the block and than have it skimmed by say 0.001 mm to give you a flat surface (I did this on my block). Just why LR left these open is beyond my understanding ! Your boost pressure is way too high, drop it down and fit the second dowel pin to prevent the gasket from floating. Use a composite gasket, I can all but guarantee yours will be a three hole and use NEW head bolts, you WILL need a good torque wrench and well as a dial torque gauge as the final torque is by angles to stretch the head bolts.

I got my "evolution" head direct from Land Rover, at a H U G E cost well over AUD $1500 however I believe that they are now available aftermarket, the only mods are that the evolution head has larger water journals and is thicker by about an additional 4.0 mm at the compression face to minimize the risk of cracking. Mine came complete with valves and springs fitted but you can buy them without to save a few coins. Me personally, I went for the fully assembled head, if you're going to fit a new head why wouldn't you fit new valves and valve springs?

You would have been better off using a home made concoction, of rolled oats, egg white and mud. All you will have done is gooed up your radiator, take it out, have it flushed and do the same for the block and heater core, if you have a leaking gasket, replace it and once you have all the crud flushed out refit the radiator, and fill with the correct coolant.

I live in a very hot climate, Australia where in the deserts I experience ambient temperatures of up to 45*C and I've never heard of this "modification". The "by-pass" hole is there to allow any air in the system to by-pass the cores and rise to the top of the radiator. To fill the coolant correctly: Have the car on level ground. Remove the radiator and thermostat plugs. Fill the reservoir until coolant flows out of the top of the radiator, you will notice that this equates to the header tank coolant level being at the correct level. Fit the header tank cap and radiator plug. Pour coolant into the thermostat plug at the same time gently squeezing the return hose to discharge any remaining air bubbles. Refit the thermostat plug, start the engine.

All the manuals, Land Rover and 90% of diesel engines tell you quite clearly not to re-tap them, as standard these thread sizes are almost an interference fit, if the threads are tapped and become only marginally oversize the bolts can tear out stripping the threads as they are under such huge torques, and with the 300Tdi they are then stretched. Simply put its a very high compression diesel, not a petrol engine, so Vulcan, dont do it What I was going to add was as for the head gaskets, only use the multi metal gaskets on brand new engines, if either the head, or the block has the slightest corrosion pitting use a composite gasket, this also applies to the infamous "P" gasket at the rear of the water pump.

Okay, if you have a blown head gasket 1.) Replace it with a COMPOSITE gasket NOT with a multiple metal item, the latter are ONLY for perfect new surfaces. There are four gaskets available, Measure ALL the four pistons to see how much they rise above the block - go by the biggest measurement. Measure them at TDC with a steel ruler across the top of the piston and use feeler gauges to measure how much they are above the block. If you have a dial gauge to do this so much the better. Set it on the block, zero it on the block and read the height of each piston. The gaskets are as follows:- 1 hole gasket, 1.3mm ERR5261, Piston Protrusion above the block, 0.50 - 0.60mm 2 hole gasket 1.4mm ERR5262 Piston Protrusion above the block 0.61 - 0.70mm 3 hole gasket 1.5mm ERR5263 Piston Protrusion above the block 0.71 - 0.80mm (This is the most common 300 Tdi gasket.) 0 hole gasket 1.6mm ERR7154 Piston Protrusion above the block, if above 0.80mm Have the head pressure tested for cracks and for any warping, if its badly warped there is an "Evolution head" available if your budget allows, go for one of these a new head. Replace all the head bolts, To correctly tighten them you WILL need a torque wrench as well as a dial torque gauge as the final applications are designed to stretch the bolts. Ensure that the bolt tapping's are clear, blow any debris out with compressed air DO NOT re-tap them! If you have had to have the head skimmed purchase 18 high grade stainless steel flat washers .0.50mm thick for each head bolt to ensure that the bolts do not bottom in their block tappings when torquing them up. If the head has needed to have been skimmed more than 0.50mm toss it as the valves will hit the pistons and cause cataclysmic damage. Ensure that the block and head surfaces are clean. Have fun, it's not a big operation, as for the head gaskets,

From my limited experience very few 300Tdi's have pistons that require a 2 hole gasket, the majority require a 3 hole. Have you measured the rise of ALL four pistons to ascertain the required gasket thickness ? This would be your first check, if your pistons are rising over .006 above the block and you have a two hole gasket this would be a prime reason for blown head gaskets, in any case its always wiser to go thicker than thinner to prevent the piston from coming into contact with the head and valves. Secondly there is a "Evolution" head available with larger water journals, I'd go for one of those if you can afford it, especially if your current head is warped. Lastly there are three triangular water jacket ports in the block between 1-2; 2-3 and 3-4. These do nothing as there is no matching port in the head, consequently small air bubbles collect in these dead ends and cause corrosion that weakens the seal between the piston/bore and the seal of the gasket, When I re-built my engine I had them welded up. Lastly NO NOT use a steel multi-plate gasket, these will only seal on a perfectly smooth block and head, the slightest amount of corrosion will cause them to fail.

Its in the electrical fault finding section of the RAVE manual, its as clear as mud, pages long and I found the best way was to download the relevant pages and stick them together, I then tore out every wire out of my Disco and totally rewired it !

I'll go with the sleaze on this, my guess is you have the shorter of the two push rods, either that or the rod has come out of the clamp (of the urine weak design) holding it into the clutch lever cup.

Oddly enough, I have the exact same unit, there are two connections for the electric radio, the ariel and a power plug to activate the ariel when the radio is on and power it down when the radio, or ignition is turned off. I mounted mine on the front wing, if you select this location you need to remove the inner plastic panel to install it. Running the aerial cable and electric connections is a bit problematic, you will need a flexible plastic cable draw rod, they should reach the radio without any extensions but you will need to drill a hole for them to pass into the driver's (or passenger) footwell - make sure you fit a rubber grommet into the hole and seal it with silicon after.

You will need to upgrade the radio as well, the standard (original ) radio does not have the required connections/power supplied to power an electric aerial.

As Western said , it prevents rear brake lock up by limiting the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes - hydraulics having a nasty habit of the fluid going to the furthest pint in the system first and building up pressure from the rear to the front. You can remove it and replace it with an adjustable unit, as I have on my Disco, so that you can "dial" up the amount of rear braking you want but otherwise if its not working, replace it, don't try to adjust it yourself as this is done on a rig and the adjustment then sealed. In regard to the adjustable brake limiting valve, on flat fast dirt roads I like the rears to come "on" before the front to cause the rear to slide out and assist in fast "turn-in" into corners, on bitumen this would be possibly fatal.

I think you (both) will find that the culprit is the front propshaft. My 'umble guestimate is that at some time in their existence they have been taken apart and reassembled without being first marked to ensure that they are re-assembled exactly as original and that as a result the balance has been compromised. The two universal yokes should be at 45* to one another - check the RAVE manual for the correct settings and then take them to a specialist to have their balance checked. You can drive the car without FWD until the shaft has been re-balanced.

Run a wire from the battery to the fuel solenoid at the rear of the Fuel Injection Pump -- it will need to have a spade connector for the fuel solenoid -- and see if the motor kicks over, if it does then it's some gibberish in the electronics, if it doesnt then its a fuel starvation problem of sorts.

Sheffield, in Oz you would get your car rejected with copper brake lines, copper will over time harden and can fracture. Strange how different countries allow different component materials. That said due to corrugations I had a the rear steel line to the drivers side rear fracture due to the vibrations out on the Mulan to balgo road in WA / NT I don't think copper would have lasted as long.

If you take the time and trouble to read your ZF auto service manual the transmission fluid and fluid filter needs to be changed every 30,000 miles, If yours has done 120,000 it's well overdue ! Change the transmission fluid filter and transmission fluid and seeing as at least 6 litres of your ancient fluid will be retained in the torque converter, do yourself, and your gearbox a huge favour and change the fluid AGAIN after 500 miles to flush out as much of the old contaminated fluid as possible. If you don't have a service manual get a RAVE CD.