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Gazzar

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Gazzar

  1. Yes, there's always something to learn.
  2. It could be a montego prima Perkins. Not a bad option. Check usual stuff: paperwork, chassis numbers, etc etc. Series stuff: Door tops, chassis rot, how bad are the leaks, clunk in the drive It's an old series, it could be great, but is probably worn out.
  3. And, unless automotive, s l o w. And heavy. But good.
  4. Tool? Use a spanner. Put the spanner side in the slot! Remember these series were designed to be serviced with a basic toolkit.
  5. No, yours is correct, mine is a new after market design that has a magnet in it. The magnet captures metal/steel shards in the oil, and stops them from doing further damage. You need part 235592 and the associated washer (genuine).
  6. Transfer box drain plug. Go to foundry 4x4 for a magnetic version. See my lightweight rebuild thread for details.
  7. Bailey Morris do a tougher version for a lot less than Gwyn, so I think I'll go that route, a decent compromise, I think. carp website, mind, but fast response to emails.
  8. Not in stock on their checker, I haven't phoned them, calls are awkward at work. I'll pop them an email in a mo.
  9. I think I'll have to buy new prop shafts for the lightweight build. Blue box prop shafts scare me, but Mr Lewis wants £280 each, which also scares me. Are there any alternatives? Somewhere in the middle? Or buy blue box and fit Lewis UJs?
  10. Don't forget all the lock tabs and other disposable items. Do you have the parts manual?
  11. Easy: http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Down load from there, print for workshop. Pics of the 2a please?
  12. I'm starting to think a simple cheap trim kit, maybe Britpart, seat heater, and a set of outlast seat covers might be the way forward.
  13. They do, and there is great choice. But I don't know what distinguishes the options. And it's a horrid website, hard to filter, no real descriptions. For example, What is span mondus? Is there a canvas sand or green option? I want something that can cope with a working truck, not a more refined road defender. It's very confusing. What have real people experienced, rather than reviews in the comics?
  14. I've a set of seats from a 110, probably late 80's or early 90's. What DIY options are there out there in terms of retrimming these? And adding heaters, extra support? Who is good for trim kits? What material would be good for hot weather, I'd rather avoid vinyl, and probably leather, to avoid burning myself on sunny days. Thanks.
  15. My lightweight project is a way away from needing seats, but it doesn't stop me planning and flip flopping on options. I'm retaining under seat tanks, but would like adjustable seats, as I'm short and would like to be able to reach the pedals. Has anyone got useful ideas as to how I could fit, say, early defender/110/90 seats, or smart car seats? Having the seat runners pivot forwards, or sideways, perhaps? I know the defender seat squab comes out, so that's an option (and I have a set for refurbishment). But smart car seats do appeal, too.
  16. No weird beards, it's quite relevent to a military forum, plus it might help when I try to get my lightweight registered!
  17. Are the alternative larger? I believe they can be reduced to fit if necessary.
  18. Mine's in the spreadsheet, but not on the Merlin archive. Does that mean anything, or is it just too old to be in the archive?
  19. Found my lightweight! Wow!
  20. Oh! You mean with proper springs? None of this air bag and coil nonsense? Proper leaf springs like the good utility trucks? And decent 6 cylinder straight diesels? And a galvanized chassis?
  21. It is cheap. If it's local, go try it. Euro torch, so desirable.
  22. Nah, if you don't need dynamite, a team of Brunel's best navvies and a cannon powered grappling hook, it's an easy trail. "Humour" Sorry. Just thought it was getting a bit domestic in here. *Brunel was the greatest engineer of the Victorian era, in my opinion.
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