Gazzar

I had to use the thickest thrust washers to make it work. If anything else was out of spec, I'd have been in bother. Not sure of the way out of this, get a thrust washer cut? I presume they are hardened, so mild is no good.

Distortion is a bitch. My chassis was like a country lane before I straightened it. Jack, high lift, ratchet straps and mapp torch sorted it. For yours, I'm not sure how to proceed, without damaging the powder. Subtle jacking against an I beam, low heat and using freeze spray on the outer of the bend? Best in mind where the finish can't be seen, is fair game for a jack/tighten point.

Takes an age, but worth it.

Clark are okay. There's a lot of knowledge about them on mig welding forum, so if your welder dies, you can probably fix it. Not amazing. But the red stuff is not a bad option second hand. See it working! Mines 20 years old and still does what needs doing.

Now, that's interesting. They've come back and said the earlier piece won't fit the later main shaft. 571218 wont fit without machining it and it shouldn't be used really as it doesn't have the same tolerance in the later type gearboxes. Which doesn't explain why it's shorter than the old single piece. not sure.

I've emailed the seller, we'll see. If it goes nowhere, I'll do the whole trading standards, action fraud and VOSA thing. Down with this sort of thing.

It's been a reasonable amount of time. Tuko, Any update?

All of the old ones are breaking at the flange. Except the brassy one. Which was galling prior to removal, possibly fake as well? I've asked the retailer if there could have been a mistake. And ordered new spilt, from an expensive, but trusted retailer.

How can you tell if a part is genuine? I've received a genuine bronze distance piece from a popular online retailer, and I think it's fake. First, it doesn't fit. Second it's too short. And the slots are made different to the originals. But all of which could be down to modern jlr parts supply. This will set back my rebuild. I am annoyed. And my old parts are all too damaged to use.

Speedisleeve any use? Or is it beyond that.

They are being remade, I'm sure.

Looks okay. I've no problem with the looks.

Plastic, bits you want to stay together don't. And bits you want to take apart, won't.

If it was a new casting, I'd say, poor, but adequate. But it's reworking an old box, so I'd say adequate, but not tidy. I think I'll take another look at that surface in the first photo, it might be deceptive. If the shaft is in the right place, and the thrust washers have enough to perch on, and doesn't leak, it's fine. What is apparent is that the series 3 box has a heavier construction, thicker ribs in lots of places, so if I was getting a box done, I'd start there.

Yes, that makes sense. I've always used gaskets, so never thought of that.

I'm glad I did! Bought a new TDI bulkhead for £100. It's going in my series, converted to metal dash, 2a style. Though if someone was to offer silly money, I'd sell and rebuild the series 3 one I also have.

Thought it was worthwhile. I'll do same for the gear set, when I've got to that part of my gearbox build. It's a second hand box, v and I found this curious arrangement at the breather. A bit of nylon pipe, siliconed in. I've no idea why.

The intermediate shaft. It has to be retained, but the retainer stud home ended up in the wrong place. So they moved it. Suppose it works, but I'll be using sealant on that for sure.

I've bought one of these for my tdi200 lwb. So, here are a few comparison photos of the modified transfer box. The thing they did was to move the intermediate shaft and cut a new gear set with a different ratio on the high gear, to give a ratio similar to the fairey overdrive.

This is true, but think how many hybrids there are running as taxis. No doubt that folk were saying the same about ICE engines when the world was using horses. It takes time and innovation. But, as someone who lives on a busy noisy road, the sooner, the better.

It clamps the rear prop shaft. So, that system must have play. Chock the wheels, hand brake on, jack up a rear wheel. Once clear of the ground see how much it turns in either direction. See if the prop shaft turns whilst you're at it. It's probably wear on the half shafts and possibly the flanges. And the diff. Another test. Pop the gearbox into four wheel drive, see if it moves as much. Often the front drive train is less worn and, as the 4x4 system locks the front and back together ( with some play ) this might reduce the roll. My 109 only rolls an inch at max.

Thanks! Mine are banned from the workshop, they get bored and go digging in the garden instead. Spaniels. Does the switch and barrel fit the series column?

Good question. Are they all officially stamped with the E numbers? I think that's all you need. I've Wipac crystals on my series, they work well for me, but have the relays to avoid melting the switch. I'll do the same with the lightweight.

Pictures? Please? How does it look?

Ah! Portals. Nice.