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Gazzar

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Everything posted by Gazzar

  1. Gazzar
    Yes, I've planned to make up the tools, no problem. I'll open it up and see what the shaft it like, can't find any on line, which bothers me a bit.
  2. Gazzar
    I've never done a steering relay before. As the rest of the truck is well worn I'm assuming the relay is, too. What normally need doing on these? I can get seals bushes and bearings, but I can't get the shafts new genuine, is it likely to be damaged? Thanks.
  3. Gazzar
    I'd be interested in your review, pop it over on the tools and fabrication section.
  4. Gazzar
    I see! I can see the benefit for the seal, but the bearings are easy enough to fit. They are a loose interference fit in the hub, but just hand push on to the stub. I just tap the bearings in with a very wide punch, little taps at 12, 4 and 7 o'clock and the bearing race goes in easy. Dead easy to remove, too.
  5. Gazzar
    What fitting kit? Being thick, don't understand.
  6. Gazzar
    Assuming the stub is as original, then it's the two different bearings. Try EAC for the parts, "shop for auto parts", I think they call the on line shop. They do good quality.
  7. Gazzar
    I didn't know that about the collar! I'll have a look when I'm back in the workshop. Thanks.
  8. Gazzar
    Stub axles, now that the seal land is integral on the later part. Bearing for old and new, front. The stub tells you what variant you have.
  9. Gazzar
    For most series there are two different sets. The older one, which I think had two different bearings, and the new one, that has a pair of same sizes bearings. Change over was June 1980, or thereabouts, but your axles, or stub axles may easily have been swapped any time. This picture is of a new type stub axle (actually a stage one V8, but the stub is the same) and a 1972 sub axle, the newer one is the same diameter along the length (thicker). I'll get the bearing numbers in a sec.
  10. Gazzar
    Finally, tap off the sprue with the punch. Job done. A good solid repair. Torque to spec and forget. This can be done in less than 10 minutes. I ended up doing all six, as I was unhappy with the level of engagement when I tightened the rest up. Took 40 minutes, I think.
  11. Gazzar
    Offer up to the tapped hole and turn the the twist tool until the spring engages with the thread. Don't push! The tool will wind the spring in, a little lube helps, but if you push the spring can jump threads, which is bad. Just keep twisting until the spring is in the centre of where the bolt thread will be.
  12. Gazzar
    Tap the hole until you run out of hole, just. Don't get the tap stuck! Blow out the chaff with an airline. Time to wind in the insert spring. Be careful with this. Slot the spring into the tool with the sprue last, so that when you offer the spring to the hole, the sprue is going in first.
  13. Gazzar
    The next stage is to tap the new, wider thread. Starting the tap is key to getting this right. Slow and slower. By eye judge that the tap is perpendicular, and twist a quarter turn or so. It should bite. Once it does, stop and check that it is at right angles, then do it again at 90 degrees. Do a half turn and check again, of its out, a gentle tap with the fist will straighten it. When I was taught how to do this I was taught to wind the tap back by a third to break the chaff. This does work, and makes the thread feel cleaner Once you've five turns then it's all good. You might like to fully unwind the tap and see the chaff.
  14. Gazzar
    The wrenched wrist was a real threat. I found was high speed and live with the locking. It worked.
  15. Gazzar
    Once drilled and cleaned with brake cleaner I blew out the chaff with the air line. The next task is to tap the hole for the stainless steel spring insert. The key thing on this is to get the tap perpendicular for the first five or so turns. Start slowly. Really slowly and check the tap is at right angles, then go around 90 degrees and check again.
  16. Gazzar
    The hub was masked up, and the hole cleaned out. The first job is to drill out the damaged threads. I guesstimated how deep I needed to drill and marked the bit with a Sharpie. Drilling was the hardest part of the job, as my drill kept grabbing the threads and locking, I'm not sure the drill is entirely right, it's fine for wood, but in metal it just either locks or torques out. Might be time for a new drill.
  17. Gazzar
    My lightweight restoration hit a snag, the drive flange retaining bolt wouldn't torque up. The thread had been stripped at some stage. One option was to take off the hub and replace it, but I was keen to just repair the damage, rather than swap over seals, bearings and the extended wheel studs. So I decided to use a thread repair kit. This isn't a bodge, some applications require the use of thread inserts in order to allow repeated undoing. I ordered a V coil kit from eBay, which arrived in time.
  18. Gazzar
    Keep it, you will regret selling it. All the vulnerable bits can be sprayed with dynax 50, to stop rot, then you can slowly finish it. The time with kids goes faster than you can believe, so you are right to focus on them, but kids do love series vehicles, even my eldest, who has his own car, can't wait until the insurance on the 109 is affordable.
  19. Gazzar
    Having grown up on a market garden farm I have a deep abiding dislike of the cold. I've decided that the standard Smith's shin burner in my lightweight project isn't going to be good enough, so am hoping to augment the hearing. I'd like something that preheats the engine. And dumps oodles of hot air into the cabin before I start it. Is there a single product that does this? Or do I need both a planer (genuine Russian) and a webasto? And can I buy good second hand? Thanks.
  20. Gazzar
    Sure you can! Wedge it in situ on the inside.
  21. Gazzar
    Jig saw? Clamp a scarificial piece of thin ply behind?
  22. Gazzar
    Wouldn't that make the chariot difficult to get around corners? It would be inclined to just plough straight on.
  23. Gazzar
    I reckon it needs an axle breather - stop the seals from leaking.
  24. Gazzar
    Can you use the same gas as steel, or do you need argon?
  25. Gazzar
    That is a dramatic heat loss indeed. Where exactly are you measuring? I'm just curious.
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