Gazzar

JB weld. Or other brand.

Wow!

Were those custom? I presume so!

Book marked. Thanks.

That true. There's a little plastic on thing about an inch long on the motor. Permanent live to the motor?

Like this.

I'll try tonight. Otherwise the weekend.

Thank you. It remains to be seen if this will work. Can't see why not, though. An expensive, but viable, way to get to CV series axles.

I've a late series three with the 2 speed switch, plus wash. Do you need a photo of the back of the switch?

Moments, there aren't. There just is.

Oh, thank goodness! Very appreciated, this is. Thank you.

This all makes good sense. Thanks.

Definitely was the Rover V8 engine, it referenced the Scribd article above. If the block has no issues at the present and the cooling is up to standard, then there's no risk of a liner slipping, is that right?

I've almost bought a 4.6 V8, for another project. And I've been looking into the mobile liner issue. On an MG forum, I came across an article that suggested pinning the liner to the block. Drilling a hole through the block and liner, below the water jacket, and tapping it, then screwing a screw into the hole to pin the liner in place. Has anyone actually done this? Why wouldn't it work?

Good parts from Britpart. Put it in the Britpart thread.

I have a pair of pegged Truetrac 10 spline diffs, range rover ratio. They should last as long as 24 spline. The shafts are a tight interference fit, will be covered in anti seize paste and so shouldn't fettle away. And it's only a 2.5 petrol, after all.

My s1v8 half shafts have arrived for my lightweight. £400 of 300M steel! They better last forever. They are absolutely top notch pieces of engineering.

Good. If we keep buying genuine, they might keep making them. Remarkable that we can still get a lot of parts genuine over 40 years after production stopped.

OEM doesn't mean genuine. It just means made by someone who once made something for a motor manufacturer.

That's good news. Thanks for letting me know.

That's clever! I can work with that. Etch prime, NATO green and mount to the top of the near side foot well. It will look like a standard lightweight tool box. Yes. That's good. I'm going to stick with plan "A". In tank pump. I can't overcome my dislike of the appearance of the universal and facet type pumps in this application. I want to to look authentic. Not original, but all of a piece, if you know what I mean. The carter pumps would have looked right. But are not UK available enough. I'll use a different brand of sender and pump for the other tank, same principle, and extend the wires a bit. I might even get tank one done tomorrow. Thanks.

Have you got a link, by any chance, for the swirl pot sort of thing? I'm not able to visualise what you've described.

I like the look of the carter external pumps. Much closer to the aesthetic I'm after. Hard to find in the UK, though.

On the other hand, if it's good value and works fine? If they are rubbish, I'll not touch. If not, why not save £150 to spend on the gearbox?

Dumb question. How do I attach nylon fuel pipe to the sender pick up pipe? Is there a nut and compression olive I can get? The early series has the nut on the nylon pipe.