Gazzar

In a fit of bravery, I ventured outside. The diameter is 65mm, I'd preferred it to be 70. But I think it will work, even if I have to sandwich the LWB sender in place.

I know standard cable ties can do the job. I know. But, I'd like to find the original pre cable tie fir tree wrap for brake pipes to the axle for a series restoration. The part number pulls up standard modern cable ties. Does any one know if I can get the ones that look like this? But longer?

Doesn't sound out of order. What tyres, and at what pressure?

It is, but I've bought 5 tubeless rims, so they are what's going on to the project. And I can get the right tubes from Michelin, so all is good. Or good enough. Thanks. G.

Toy. Definitely.

and a 101 gs must be close. But that might just be me, I like vehicles that look like boxes that you move stuff in.

You aren't entirely right, but it is up there in the top 3 along with a series 1 rag top and a lightweight.

I'm experimenting with an idea. Do you have easy access to a late series LWB fuel sender? The one with the fuel pipe built-in? Could you measure the diameter of the mounting plate? Don't go out in the cold to do it, I've one in the pickup, and I'm too lazy to go out in the sleet, and free up the screws holding the access plate down. I'm trying to see if I could add an in-tank pump for an EFI conversion for my lightweight project. Thanks.

Photo of the difference. The well in the rim is completely different. Those rims were aligned on the same mounting plane, so is a true comparison.

Thanks to Spendrey, I've a set of four Britpart rims. They're sturdy! I'll put them on a hub tomorrow, and see if they spin true. The wheel well is a lot more outboard than the standard rim, as is the outer edge. I'll try take some photos tomorrow, comparing the late series/early 110 rims with the wolf. The tubeless rims differ only in that there is a slight lip to catch the tyre edge. I think this will cause no problem with the tube type tyre, as the tyre edge will fully fill the gap so there is no risk to the tube. The lip would be less than the protrusion that the rivets on the old rims. The other difference is the valve peg hole. It's TR13, smaller than the TR15. And I can't find Michelin air stops in this size to fit on-line. So, the plan is to get these rims hot zinc sprayed and powder coated, then swap the tyres over. Satin NATO green.

And ask them not to use parcelforce, would be my advice. G.

Even smarter to stuff them with silicone first! Works quite well to stop zinc attaching.

I think you are right. Good tubes should be fine. So long as the valve hole is the same size, or smaller. I'll pick up a set on Saturday, get a spare, then get them zinc sprayed and coated. Thanks.

Now I know!

I like that, simple and clever, at the same time.

The wider question is if this is a series or a 90/defender, as this determines which part to order. Or are they the same?

The tyres require tubes. I've sourced some s/h non-gen. It will do until I get the vehicle finished at least. To buy genuine and new tyres could be up to a grand, which isn't happening just now; springs and custom shafts aren't cheap!

I thought/hoped the later LWB rims might clear, no such luck. Are the valve holes the same as series?

It's a lot. I'd have to move the centre in about 1/2 an inch to an inch. New rims is the better option, I think. Wolf rims in matt green would look okay, I think.

My lightweight project has hit an expected hurdle, the series rims don't fit over the Zeus calipers - by a large amount. This isn't a surprise, they are quite clear about this in the advertising. I was hoping it would only be few mm, but its not, no way will the LWB series rim fit over the caliper. So, I need a set of wolf rims, or more accurately 6.5 J profile rims. But the range is huge! Genuine are about £113 for tube type and £70 for tubeless. I'd rather not pay the extra for the tube type if I can avoid it. I'm planning on fitting Avon rangemasters with airstop tubes, can I fit to tubeless? Aftermarket can be as low as £50, but are britpart, and so are probably square and made from coke cans. Or am I doing them a disservice? Help?

Interesting, is it an 88 or a 90? What braking system would it have? I didn't think that any series servo had a low vacuum warning system, it's possible that's a 90 servo.

I'd also consider fitting a locally available engine, if you are going to be using it a lot. I'm very happy with my tdi200, but, being based in the UK I know I can get parts in 24 hours. If I was in, say, Australia, I'd be thinking of a Holden engine, again, parts availability. South Africa, maybe BMW? But if you ARE committed to the tdi200 - and I understand that this does make sense on a number of levels - I'd really think about getting one that's been reconditioned. Expensive, I know, but you've got a lot of reliability built in, and the hassle of buying unseen, you could end up buying 3 before you get a good one, remember it's over 2 decades since the engine was first produced, there aren't many that haven't done starship miles.

That's the MOD wiring diagramme. Not civvy spec.

Now, now. We depend on them to buy this stuff, so, when they move on to the next shiny thing, we can afford them. Growing up on the farm, we were always amazed that the 4x4s in London didn't have hitches, simply couldn't understand why you'd buy a truck without a hitch.

Landroversforever, I think.