Gazzar

It is do able if you are a competent DIY mechanic, if the cost is an issue.

When was the last time you checked the oil level?

Well done, persevere. And thank you for the updates, very helpful. I'm going this route someday on a series station wagon, so this is valuable.

Agreed. That's an "extra" and not essential. Any decent fabricator would repair that in a couple of hours. Find a farm repair workshop and show them. If you remove, strip and clean the axle, so all they have to do is make the new part and weld it in, it should be quite inexpensive. Or just the rot out, paint and carry on, if you aren't using the vehicle for serious off road.

Good point.

Melted equals heat, so poor connection somewhere. Dab of copper slip on the contracts should sort that. Plus a good earth. But they should not melt, irrespective.

Yes, no, that's the swivel seal. That shouldn't leak, irrespective of the lube. Series swivels run on oil, and, if done properly, don't leak like that.

Were the brakes okay? Originally? Do you do lots of towing heavy trailers? Do you drive a lot in the mountains? If not, keep standard, easier to explain, insure, and if there's an accident, then it's not something you've to worry about. Plus, easier to service in future, as all standard. If you found the brakes poor when in standard form then that's different.

I suspect that mud and rust resistance wasn't in the original design spec. I don't quite like FWH, it's another complication, but I didn't think slectro were all that bad.

Logistics will find the military reg from the chassis number. And then be able to pull the history, the B card, from that. The B card is often very sketchy. Only showing regiments only, but not detailed servicing. It's £40 to £50 but can be quite quick.

That's actually a good idea, and drivable in a 109. I'll talk it through with the boss.

That wouldn't bother me, lubrication is good. Especially of flange splines. But lube can only escape to the outside tyre at the swivel seal, or the hub seal between the stub axle and the bearings. If the swivel seal is good, then it must be the hub seal. Simple job, really.

That's the hub seal leaking, isn't it?

That's a good question. When I saw these in operation on farm tractors that didn't happen, I think there's a sort of cyclone effect that separates the rain. The tractor mushrooms were see-through, but had to be cleaned. Whether the cyclone effect would happen at seventy miles per hour is something I don't know. Zetor pre filter

Any chance of a photo of the corrosion?

Breather pipe intakes? From the axles and timing chest.

The simplest thing to do, I think is to fit the standard flanges to the front hubs. Purely for testing, swap them from the back and test again, off road. G.

Would Loctite 660 work to overcome the wear on the splines? G.

Take off the prop shaft and run it in front wheel drive. That will let you know where to focus. Assuming the issue isn't in the front prop!

Economically rational. Not really what Landrover are about, I'm afraid to say. Dacia, probably. If you want rational.

I think I'll do something similar. The late LWB rear tank sender also has the pickup pipe. It was retained by a locking collar, and the mounting flange is about 5mm smaller diameter than the old SWB unit. I'll get one of those, and add the pump from the RRC unit. I'll drill the 6 holes, if there's enough to cover the mount, if not, I'll use the flange from a broken sender as a collar. It should seal fine. The only challenge is getting the electricity into the pump, how difficult can it be to seal wires in to the top plate? Thanks for the great suggestions, it's really helped spark some ideas.

I left.

Try Ireland. EUR1650 for a 109 hard top. 50 if it was a pickup. Which is why I drive a pickup, even though I'm now UK based.

Be careful about the hub centre, though, I think the series hub is bigger, thus some rims don't fit.

Good! Close indeed, I wonder how long they are. . . .