Gazzar

I think you are on to something. I think oil was running into the swivel from the axle, while I had the flat tyre. Meaning the oil was running into the swivel and couldn't get out. Two solutions, complete rebuild. Or drop the complete swivel, replace the seal. And put a strategic hole in the seal to equalise the pressure. Perhaps at 10 o'clock? I don't want to completely remove the seal, for fear of starving the other side of oil if I was on a side slope. Great, more swivel work. Just what I need. Ah well, it will run for a while with the breather home in the hub cap. Thanks.

The breather is clear. The line is unkinked, and I've flushed it with the air line. Banjo bolt is clear too. Should I drill some pits in the swivel balls to let air out, in the traditional manner? Otherwise it's UJ and bearing rebuild of the front swivel. Don't know what else to do.

It's the front axle? There's a seal between the main axle casing and the swivel housing. Or there should be. Would the main axle pressurise the swivels? I suppose it could. I will check. It's on remote breathers so it shouldn't block.

This is the second time the Landrover had blown off the front hub cap! What's causing this? Something is causing the swivel housing to pressurise, but what? UJ damaged? Bearings going? Help?

Thanks Al. The grinder it is. I've a test version, so if I foul it up, no loss. I'll get the measurements of the inserts I have and try cross reference these to tool holders, I like the trick of keeping the shins and holders together, but think the 4 way quick change thing is the way forward.

Do JLR have any interest in the serious off road utility market? It doesn't fit with their portfolio. This may well be the new defender, with fancy suspension, aimed at the G Wagon market. A high cost plastic shrouded Tonka toy-alike that wealthy self employed can buy, rather than a Merc pickup. Core JLR values and market. Nothing wrong with that. Not for me, but I'm odd, by most people's standards.

I think I'll do that. I've a question. I've a selection of inserts, carbide, I think. But no holders. Where would I look on-line to get holders? What dimensions would I need to know? The labels on the packets are faded, so I don't know the names of the inserts. And the opposite, I've a holder with a worn out insert, but don't know what to order. I don't need amazing quality, it would be wasted on me, so cheap, crude but serviceable is what I need now, I think.

That's what I thought, I'll try it for the CV, but the angle grinder might come into play if it's tough going. Thanks. Once I get the electrics sorted I'll try figure out a suds pump. Spraying with WD 40 isn't a long term plan.

When you say "facing cuts", do you mean start clearing a space in the side of the shaft, and working in, or just take the face all the way down to the final dimension? Thanks.

To get the tool central, all I've been doing is using shims to get the tool in the right place. Is there a better way? Seems a bit heath Robinson.

I'm trying to shorten the shaft bit of a CV. The bit the drive flange slides onto. The lightweight has narrower flanges and a simple flat cap, rather than the threaded end of standard series half shafts that take castle nuts I'm converting the axle to CVs, but preserving the lightweight look. So I need to take about 20 mm (+) off the CV shaft. I'd rather avoid holding the grinder and just cutting the shaft, it's a bit agricultural as a technique ( last resort), so if i could part the shaft with s bit of precision, that would be good.

Thanks to Ross I've a couple of CVs to practice on. I'm cutting the splined party of the CV off. I suspect the splines will cause grief and I'll end up using a grinder with a plasma disk. Actually, can I mount a grinder to a lathe?

Is this a parting tool? Would it shorten a CV stub axle?

A bit more success today. By exploration I changed gear on the lathe and, to my surprise, the speed increased, without tripping the electric. I can get to 800 rpm. Rather than 46 rpm. That's judging by the gearbox plate. This makes a massive difference to the quality of the work. I've also bought some tooling. It's too small, I think but it confirms that I need to learn what tool holders I need for the inserts I've inherited.

They should be fine. Use copper grease. Tighten nothing until it's all right, then tighten all a little bit. Check, repeat.

I doubt it. It's too big/small. It's going to shrink/swell. The hamster will stick/fall off.

I doubt they are made of zinc. Probably zinc passivated. Or, looking at them, brass? Do you mean for the manifold to engine mounting? I think the heat in the manifold might cause them to expand and contract in weird ways, and the little unthreaded bit on the proper studs helps locate the manifold. Otherwise Landrover would have done the bolt thing.

I was trimming the inside of the shim washer for the railco Bush, so that makes me feel better.

That's the compromise with the disco conversion, I think. But to build a series axle to disco spec could cost upwards from £500, it's not a bad choice.

Agree 100%. The taller profile is better. I chose the Avon rangemasters, as they are radials and 8 ply and i am very happy. The airstop tubes are very good. You might need an insert to get the valve peg to fit the hole. They won't stop nails though, but are easy to patch.

Is that the internal bore diameter? That's about 10mm isn't it.

For the head? I would.

Agreed, and copper grease, brass nuts. Do it once, right.

Yes. You are right. I couldn't get the clamp to clamp that way, I think the tool was too short or something. This way worked for the job, but I've some cheap tooling on the way, that might work better the right way around. It feels like a somewhat crude way of holding the tool, though. Thanks.

Yes. Chucks appear reasonably priced. Slow steps. I also have to avoid starting another project.