Gazzar

Are you sure Snagger? If you are, then my gearbox in the 109 can't breathe - explaining the constant leak from the selector shafts! The round cap on mine in the 109 is just a plate set in the alu, and this has a blank grommet, also the top plate has a blank grommet. I think may order some more bits, and fit the military cap. Looking at the various sections of the box on the bench, I think you are right - there is no air path way between the main box and the cavity with the square plate on it. And there IS a groove on the mating surface of the transfer box that would allow air to escape into the cavity. I've fitted the military cap and breather to the box I'm rebuilding, and I'll hot gun this breather in as well, so that should also help. The aim is a quiet leak free box, every little helps! G.

Could you make one up? A bit of bar (old gear lever?) and a few different washers welded together might do it, though I'm struggling to see how that kit allows you to drive the plug in straight, when hammering at an angle.

The plate in the 109 has the right sized hole - but a blank grommet in place. I think I'll hot air gun it into place. G.

I'm looking forward to the photos - it could become the definitive rebuild thread! G.

Right, I'm putting together a series 3 box - all going well, but slowly. I'm doing the top cover and gear levers now, and have hit a strange one. I ordered a new top cover - the bit on top of the casting that contains the selector shafts. This has a breather, so I ordered this as well. Actually, I ordered a genuine part and a britpart one - no difference that I can see - but anyway, The breather appears to be a loose fit onto the hole, and I was wondering was there some majic I should be doing to stop it falling out. I've looked at another box and it has a rubber blank plug in the hole, which could explain the persistent leaking from the selector shafts. Am I to melt this into place (first preference) or is there some other technique to fit it? I'd appreciate a hint in the right direction, thanks! G.

My 1981 has the full length gutter, and also has a detachable transmission cover, the outer tunnel surround can be removed, leaving just the vertical bulkhead. Made changing the engine easier! G.

Ain't that something! Small world. Anyway - I say the LR drive train was up to the 3.5 tonne tow weight. The right trailer helps, and having everything in good tune also helps. You'd want to shorten the service interval, too, but otherwise it should be fine. I've towed 4 tonnes (no more than that, honest) and, while it isn't fun, it is do-able with care. Mind you - the engine at the time was quite worn, a fresh engine would make the job much easier. Having decent brakes help, the 109 will lock up the trailer brakes on full (Oh my GOODNESS!) braking. G.

Well, we all started somewhere! It helps if you have a mate locally who can pass on the benefit of experience having broke the same part when they did it, but if you don't, then the forum here is quite good. Top tip: Buy/download/borrow the Haynes manual, or the ROM - Landrover repair operations manual, there should be copies floating in the internet, and read the chapters, then get the parts book and look at the exploded diagrams. Then look at your LR and compare and contrast. Then ask questions - if it's dumb question, and there ARE some, don't be afraid to say it's dumb question (we all have them). G.

Debris? Dried Mud? I'd have a quick poke around under there and see if there is a mechanical blockage of some sort.

I suppose it's a good rule of thumb for a front wheel drive car, and a single axle trailer, but for 4wd/rwd vehicles with ladder chassis it doesn't hold true, nor indeed, for a semi-articulated trailer.

I can't comment on the plate, but my 109 is rated at 4 tonne, according to the official plate on the bulkhead - which is genuine as it has the reverse stamps on it. It's a post rationalisation 1981 petrol (or was before I di'd it).

Carl, A lot of questions, some with no easy answers! Off-hand the Daihatsu engines have a good reputation, probably better than the early series diesels, anyway. Assuming it's been set up and serviced properly then it shouldn't give bother. It should run slightly faster than a series diesel, purely as it should have more power, and may rev slightly higher. That is, assuming it is a naturally aspirated engine, not a turbo. A turbo diesel should have quite a bit more power. Change it if you want, but I'd get used to it first and see how good it is, before dropping more money on an engine. If you do change it and don't go original, then perhaps the 2.8 turbo Daihatsu may be worth considering - it may have the same mounting points and thus be an easier swap. Fitting a 5 speed is do-able, but is a fair degree of expense and work. the 4-speed box in the series is quite short, compared to a lot of 5 speeds - and it may mean changing propshafts, cutting crossmembers and the like, again, see if the series meets your need first. If it doesn't then it may be cheaper to sell the series and buy a defender/discovery/hi-lux. The thing is; series vehicles are now more desirable, and worth more, unmolested, and the others are cheaper and may suit you better, it makes little sense to spend money on changes that make a vehicle worth less that it is at present. You could always fit an overdrive if you want faster. New they are still available, from a company in Canada, if I recall correctly. Tell us more as to that you were planning on using the series for, it would help. G.

I don't know if this helps but I think the tdi engines have valve caps between the valve and the rocker, perhaps these may help? Though I suspect the tdi rockers have extra lubrication for the caps. Who supplied the cam? Perhaps they've solved the problem? G.

I've never worked on one, maybe you could read through the manual and get a feel for it? I suspect the Aussie crowd may sell you the individual parts, though once you start stripping a box you find you need loads of stuff, bearings/circlips/shims/gaskets and it soon adds up. G.

Try http://www.roverparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/4475 Not too far from you? Also confirms that the FRC5931 works on both syncro pairs. G.

Doesn't the standard series 3 parts manual cover the Stage1v8? Fairly sure it does. G. Reading the parts book it looks like you need FRC5931, though it's only described as the 3/4 Baulk ring on the websites. PM me if you don't have that chapter of the parts book and I'll email it to you - though I'm sure it's on the interweb somewhere.

Thanks Snagger..

Which way around does this seal go into the cover? I know that in general the spring in the seal is supposed to be in the oil, but if I'm supposed to fit the seal that way around how do I drift it into the housing without mucking up the sealing surface? Or the spring? G.

You're right - i thought they were referring to the starter solenoid as a coil. D'oh! One of us is awake! Two separate issues here, Role Mold; starter solenoid wiring, and ignition coil wiring Starter solenoid wiring: The starter solenoid on the petrol is separate from the starter motor and on my 109 1981 was on the battery tray support. It looks like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-SERIES-2-2A-PETROL-STARTER-SOLENOID-13H5952L-5694-/400398266948?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d3998b244 though usually not so clean. This should have two wires coming in to it - a thin one (from the ignition switch) and a thick one (from the battery) - and one leading out of it (to the starter) - a thick one. The diesel starter solenoid is on the starter itself, so move the thin wire to there, and also the thick one from the battery, onto the big bolt. As for the wire that goes to the ignition coil from the ignition, I think that this goes to the stop solenoid on the injection pump. It's been a while since i did mine so I've forgotten.

You have to abandon the petrol starter solenoid (coil) on the bulkhead, as the Diesel one supersedes it. So swap the cable from the battery to the coil over to the Diesel starter as well. G.

Well, now, Isn't that curious! Mine is roughly 8 cm, not at all near 9cm. I must measure the Ltwt chassis I have and see if that's the same.

Gotcha, I'll look later on, presume its vertical separation, rather than distance? Was the chassis ever repaired? G.

Well, I've just measured my 109 4 cyl SW Richards 4 section chassis - trickier to do than you'd think - and the measurement I get for Datum line (top of steering relay crossmember to top of fuel tank crossmember) to the bulkhead support bolt holes in chassis is 120mm allowing for warp in plank, and parallax error. Hope this helps. G.

Ah, so the moisture barrier is to protect the structure from internally generated moisture? And the breathable barrier prevents mould, and the like, in the insulation? It becomes clearer now. G.

Would breathable membrane between the insulation and the outer layer work?