Gazzar

Good luck! G.

Would an older petrol engine qualify? If you ran a 2286 petrol, or a 2495 petrol on Gas/lpg it may qualify. G.

Simple, cut 2 inches off between the ankle and the knee, and 2 inches between the knee and the hip. Drive over washboard gravel at speed for a month and the spinal compression will take another 2 inches away. Otherwise look into Mudrails, I think they are called. They move the seat up and back, I believe. Truth is, the seating position was designed in an era where the average person was shorter. Some taller people have no problem, others can't cope with the position no matter what modifications they make. Post up how you get on, valuable knowledge for other owners.

I thought Santana did the thing LR should have done, and slap a few extra two cylinders on to the 2286. I suspect a rover overhaul kit would work, but I wouldn't put money on it. If someone has an o/h kit about, and a calipers, then we'd be able to measure and compare. G. Brianj, do you have the series workshop manual, as it covers this procedure? It's widely available for download, likewise the parts handbook. PS, I've always had an interest in these licensed variants - they show what LR should have done, would have done, if they had the clearance and funds.

Fair play to you, to allow him to respond and show his side of the story. It may be just that this is his manner, and the humour is lost in the written medium. Do report back, this is an interesting thread.

It's a fair question, so many suppliers give unclear descriptions, and there is no harm in asking. Name and shame, especially as you have the evidence to support your naming! G.

2.5 p is a good idea - there's already an unleaded head fitted, so less work.

2286 petrol, 3 bearing. Keep it simple, original, valuable, insurable. Stick a turner high flow unleaded head, electronic ignition and ACR carbs if you want it to go fast. If you are doing mega miles buy a Navara, or a Great Wall or a Hi-lux - it doesn't matter if one of those get written off in a crash. G.

Try "woolies" or Vehicle Wiring components for grommets.

I don't understand the "bundle offer". What is in the bundle? Or am I sobering up? G. Sorry, got it! You get two or three together - it wasn't displaying properly! G

Another quick/easy thing to check is the mainshaft nut, in the transferbox. G.

Most of the job is ok, assuming you are handy with a welder, (Prop the seatbox sill rail, lop off the old rigger, unbolt bulkhead bolt on new rigger and weld) but welding the top of the new rigger to the top of the chassis can be a pig. Access is poor, and from the engine compartment. It may be easier to leave the top of the old rigger in place over the chassis and trim the new one to match and then seam weld from the underside. Alternatively you may be able to patch the old one - it's surprising what can be done, safely and sturdily, with 2.5mm sheet. A good coat of spray on zinc and oodles of well oiled waxoil and you'd be good to go as long as a new rigger. G.

more pics!

I drilled out the hole again half way down to a wider diameter to allow for the flange, and milled it with the included mill.

I drilled out the hole.

The bodge didn't work and the rocker shaft broke (twice). So I bought the big sert set.

I wrote a review on another forum, but in summary you drill, mill, tap and insert. The insert driver tool puts the insert in place and also activates the lock tab sot hat the insert can't reverse out. This was the problem:

I wrote a review on another forum, but in summary you drill, mill, tap and insert. The insert driver tool puts the insert in place and also activates the lock tab sot hat the insert can't reverse out. This was the problem:

You're right, they did have a top hat liner type flange. As I recall I milled this out with a hand drill. The mill was included in the set. I'll post up the pics. G.

When doing the rocker shaft retaining stud holes on my tdi200 head I used a US product called a "big-sert" it was a machined insert, rather than a coil product. It worked well, and, though expensive, was cheaper than throwing out the head. A standard helicoil wouldn't work as the hole had already been bodged by a previous owner. G.

Does the filter housing have the same arrangement as the tdi200? as I recall there's a valve in there. G

I agree that some cheapo bench grinders are lacking wellie. For wire brushing I do like using a small angle grinder with wire brush cup, or disk. Agreed, pulling lengths of wire out of your clothing isn't fun, but it's the price you pay. For BIG stuff I used to have a large wirebrush cup for use in the 9 inch grinder - cumbersome, but effective.

Great! Thanks. I must have made it up in my head. Thankfully, we're on a large plot so that the 50% of property rule doesn't come into play. That's a weight off my mind. I'll need building regulation compliance anyway as I'm going to build from timber, so that's no problem. Now all I need is for the weather to improve! G.

As 2014 is to be "The Year of The Workshop" I am trying to wrap my little brain around the various planning laws and building regulations requirements, here in England. I've had it in my head that there was a 30 Sq M (internal) exemption from the requirement to get permission, subject to satisfying a lot of other stuff to do with heights etc. But I've just looked through the government planning portal thing on Outbuildings, and there's no mention of this limit. Has there been a change, or have I been dreaming the last 5 years? Links! http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/miniguides/outbuildings/Outbuildings.pdf http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permission/ I'm going to have to comply with building regulations, I know, but that should be a minor issue, as I would want it built right anyway! G.

No, no. It was just a thought experiment - it would be marginally easier to mount it on the trailer if it was on end. Perhaps I'd better stay off the booze - it makes me think!. Cheers, you've confirmed my thoughts! g.