Gazzar

Also, unless you have a decent amount of stuff between the glass and the screen, the flex in the body and screen can cause the glass to break on the high points on the screen mating surface, ie where the welds weren't smoothed back before the frame was galvanised. I used DumDum the second time, it was thick enough to hold the glass away from the frame to allow flex. Can't get DumDum anymore, so I'd be looking at Nicks neoprene seals as an alternative, with gutter sealant at the joins. G.

When I did the drums on my 109 (1981 - 11" drums at front) I used a power bleeder to get the air out - I used a "Gunson EZI Bleed", which did the job well. http://www.gunson.co.uk/tools.aspx?cat=674 I use the 109 to tow heavy trailers (up to 3500kg) and find the servo assisted drum brakes to be entirely adequate for the job, including one emergency brake situation where an idiot pulled out in front of me from a side road and then immediately stopped to turn down another side road.

I'd do the latter, straightforward milling and turning. A decent engineering shop could do it for you. Grem has done the hard work on what parts to use and where to site everything.

I think that the td5 clutch plate can be fitted the wrong way around, it's apparently an easy mistake to make. G.

Ok, dickie seats - fair point. Now I know. G.

Sorry, this came across as being argumentative, not my intention. I'm just curious as I understood that non structural areas were only checked for potential cutting hazards. And as the D has a ladder chassis the body work is only checked around seat belt mountings. It's why you can use ABS wings, and fibreglass modifications like landrangers and Eagle Kit cars - it's not structural, therefore not covered by the test. G.

Why does the MOT examine this? It's not near suspension mounts. It's not supporting a seatbelt, it's not leaving a dangerous or sharp edge. G.

What's wrong with tiger seal ? If you clean it up well, ensure that the crossmember strength has been replaced - rivet in some if you must, and tiger seal the lot back together well, it should be fine. It's not structural, it mightn't be text book, but it's adequate, especially for a Disco that isn't worth much more than the welder you'd buy to fix it with! And tiger seal is a structural adhesive - lots of cars nowadays are built with the stuff. Just make sure the rot is stopped. Waxoil, spary zinc, wirebrush on a grinder - rearrange in the correct order.

Thanks Phil, I've ordered a new one. I'll post up a compare and contrast when it arrives! G.

Best of luck, and if you do buy, spend some time on preserving the chassis - a good power wash and a selective application of you favourite anti-rust in the vulnerable areas will ensure that you have decades of rust free motoring!

Right, more evidence to support my theory that I've the right gear: The suffix D inner outer gear HAS 30 teeth: http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Series/Gearbox/LT76/Gears/rtc2685-HUB-_SLEEVE-ASSY-SER3-SUFD-30T.html The A suffix has 31 teeth http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Series/Gearbox/LT76/Gears/608283-inner-&-outer-assembly-31t.html and the B/C Suffix has 30 in this picture: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LAND-ROVER-SYNCHRO-HUB-1ST-2ND-SERIES-3-SUFFIX-B-C-RTC2195-/160856705715 I note some websites show the B/C as being compatible with the A box, but some don't. So, does anyone else know for sure - how many outer teeth has the B/C version, part number RTC2195? G.

Right, I've asked the guy who supplied the parts, Dan Dikson, about this and he's kindly sent me a few pictures of the different versions of the "IN OUT" gear. I think he's dug out the different gears from his stock just to show me, which was very decent of him. I've attached a couple of his pictures - The first shows the different gears: Left to right A/B/D. The key difference is that the D gear has 30 outer teeth and the others have 31. Assuming I can still count after a day at work, that is! And the gear I've been using has 30 teeth. So, now I'm thinking I DO have a suffix D box In Out cluster? The second picture is of the inside of a D cluster inner, according to Dan. Confused, formerly known as Gazzar.

Okay, looking at the parts manual I see that RTC2195 is for the B & C boxes, whereas RTC2685 is for the D box. So you are saying that this is not an RTC2685, right? Damn, I'm going to have to get one of those. Ah well, nevermind! I'll stick it on the list. Thanks!

The Second gear, with it's cone: Bronze top hat section bush and 2nd hear on the shaft: And tolerance being checked: It's got to be 0.007 to 0.004 of an inch. if I recall correctly. Push down the bush hard and then see if the clearance is right And so, if the 0.008 feeler gauge fits in then the bronze bush is too long. Make sure the key way and the key on the shaft are aligned: This one was 0.006, so was fine. Next, do the same job for the 3rd gear. Slide on the next bronze bush, and third gear, then the thrust washer: and while holding the shaft in one hand, push down on the thrust washer to tighten the cluster together, then take the feeler gauge and measure the gap. What? Don't have three hands? You'd want to see a doctor about that mate! Anyway here's how I did it. Take a piece of 1 1/2 inch waste pipe and trap it in the vice: And drop the shaft into the pipe: This will mean that the weight of the whole thing will keep the thrustwasher/bush/tophat bush/thrustwasher assembly will be tight, allowing me to check the gap. This one was fine. Disassemble the various gears and bushes and reassemble without the gears: Note that the spring snap ring is also on - USE THE OLD ONE, after checking that it is the same thickness as the new one. I hate these little snap rings. Nothing personal, just hate them. Check the tolerance: This one was fine, all good so far - no sandpaper required, no parts too short. Good! How DO you get those flippin' rings off? This is how I do it: Small screwdriver under one end and lever: And twist another screwdriver into the new gap until it's out of the groove all the way around. It works. Still hate them. Guess which is the old ring? Use the new one. Ok, time to lube up! I like to put a skim of grease on these things, just in case the oil isn't fully right on day one. And pop the 2nd gear on the shaft - checking the bush alignment, of course. And then 3rd gear! Bush, non-top hat version: Gear, hopefully right way around: Correct thrust washer. All the way home! Spring snap ring, did I mention I dislike these? On all the way around: And sliding down the shaft: Right, going to take a break - more later. G.

I knew I wouldn't get all the way with this one, as I'd lost the 1/2 syncro springs and blocks (stupid, but I had to clear out the garage to get the lathe in). Lets see how far I can get, shall we? Naked mainshaft: A heap of bits, some of which may belong to this gearbox: This bit is the outside of the 1/2 syncromesh, and is also the reverse gear, I think. If you look deep inside you will see the little cut out grooves for the ball bearings on the syncromesh. This is the inner bit, that stays in place on the mainshaft: Note that the groove around the middle isn't exactly central - this is important. This is the way they go together: I think. Slide one into the other, checking that the missing splines are central with the cut-outs grooves on the outer bit. The manual says to check the fit in all three possible combinations, one was ever so slightly freer so I went with that one. Now, I was missing the blocks and springs so that's all I should have done with that, but I decided to keep going - knowing I'd have to rip it back later, but it would allow me to get the tolerances right later on. So, next up, the second gear/third gear bronze bush set up. G.

Where was I? Oh, yes! Reverse gear. New bit! And the old spacer plus bronze washer: The gear comes with the bearing built in. Parts manual and ROM Assembly order: Well, I think so. Opps, I think IE has died again, maybe I need to reboot the old laptop. Let me see, does Chrome support photobucket? Oh, yes it does! Hold the gears and spacers/washers in order on the finger and start the shaft in from the back of the box: The shaft will be proud of the box, gently persuade it into the box until it is flush. I think I warmed up the casing with the propane prior to fitting the shaft, so a few taps with the plastic hammer served to seat the shaft home. One thing - make sure the hole for the spring pin is aligned with the recess on the outside of the back of the casing. I don't have a pin, so I'll put that on the extra parts list I need to order. Next up - start the main shaft!

Right, after simply ages I've finally started in on this box. I decided to commence with the main box, and I have to say that the ROM Green Bible is brilliant, but absolutely hopeless. It's all over the place. Bits here, bits there, bits everywhere - mind you it may be that I have the pages in the wrong order! I am starting with a couple of rebuild kits and a variety of new gears/shafts, as the old ones were corroded/damaged. I got this box of bits from a dealer/repairer on the Irish forum, guy by the name of Dan Dikson in the West of Ireland. So, to commence, the reverse gear. The reverse gear in the box was rubbish - rust from when the box was neglected, and so new shaft and gear to fit. Warning - this is picture intensive, so if you are on dial-up this may take a while. To refresh, the stripped main box: That bodes well. Internet Explorer has just crashed. Please wait - normal service will be resumed shortly.

Taster!

Updates coming soon.... G.

Try here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72405 G.

Worrying, that. You'd have thought they'd test them, or something. G.

Most likely they are the same, unless rockymountian - which are larger - and available from their agents. G.

It that like making your own tap?

Ah, yes, that makes sense - a boring bar tool holder. But the guy talks about only going to 1" internal diameter - back to hand taps for smaller than that? Would you ever do a drag link or a track rod internal with a lathe? G.

No - never cut threads with a lathe, just turning stuff. I've always presumed that you set it up to move the carriage at a standard speed relative to the rotation of the chuck, and that you use a tool to cut out the thread along the outside of the barstock. Repeat until thread at standard depth. For internal threads I figured that you just ran a tap into the hole, and often wondered as to how the tap didn't just snap off with the pressure. So, I'm struggling with visualising the internal cutting! Looking forward to the "ah HA" moment. So I can machine my own heavy duty drag links!