BogMonster

There should be no air at all in the fuel so if you have air that is probably the cause of your problems. Check for obvious air leaks (loose connections around filter etc) if you don't find any then take the carpet up in the boot, take the hatch out in the middle of the boot floor and check the pickup where it goes into the top of the tank. I saw a 200Tdi with similar symptoms to yours once where the steel pickup pipe had corroded right through just outside the tank and there was a pinhole air leak on the suction side, no fuel leak due to it being suction rather than return but it buggered the performance up completely. You might be able to braze it but if it looks anything like the one I saw you will want a new pickup!

There is a BFG MT 315/75R16 size for a 16" rim which is approx 35" in diameter but its not a size that is easy to get, I tried for somebody with a Lardbruiser a while back and was told it was not a size normally sold in the UK and was special order only. As it is around a 12.50 section width it might also be too wide for you. Why do you particularly want 16" rims? As a general rule the 15" sizes are cheaper in my experience and having more sidewall lend themselves better to running at low pressures.

Do a search the subject has been covered loads of times but briefly:- The oil ingress is into the injector harness which is inside the cylinder head. Later ones have better (but not perfect!) sealing. You can buy the main harness but this is about 500 quid for a Defender (not sure how much the Disco one is) instead of just £40 for the injector harness so by all means change the whole lot if you want to do a proper job but what most people do is fit a new injector harness and wash out the plugs at both ends of the main harness with contact cleaner or brake cleaner then blow out with compressed air, repeat this a number of times until the oil stops coming out. 99% of the time this will work unless the main harness is really bad.

Blocked aircon drains can apparently be a cause of moistness down below, but when I had a wet carpet in the drivers footwell of my D2 it took months to find it and it was eventually found to be that some chump in the factory had cross-threaded one of the bolts on the drivers side bonnet hinge and the water was running down the threads Hinge off, the body rethreaded to a bigger bolt size and a liberal application of silicone sealant on reassembly sorted the problem.

You would have to be careful how you said the name of the place it's located I had to collect one the other day that looked a bit like that, 2 year old Tdi, unfortunately it belonged to us

Here you go http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17362 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33385

Jim Attrill has Somewhere on here are some nice photos of what a certain well known brand of performance air filter does to your engine in dusty conditions...

Looks a bit dodgy as in when you put it on a test rig the spray pattern is carp, or what?

0.01 litres x 4 cyl x 4 = 0.16 litres a minute which seems a fairly large amount of fuel to me for an engine only turning at 300rpm, if you x10 for 3000rpm and x60 for an hour that would be a tankful of fuel in under an hour at the same rate per stroke, but I don't know how an injector pump normally reacts to taking its "load" (the injector) away - i.e. whether the metering is the same or whether they should spray gallons out. Pump timing slipped would be my guess, a diesel engine (unless its a silly one with electricity all everywhere) in simple terms basically only needs air and fuel arriving at the right time and compression to make it go bang. You says it came to a stop was that intentional (ie you shut it off then it wouldn't restart) or it died on you?

Don't abbreviate it Look a bit like the BFG MT2 pattern?

I can tell you that you don't have to take the body off to get the engine out but I know a man who changed an engine in one without doing this and reckoned at the end of it, it would have been easier if he HAD taken the body off...

I don't think you will gain much as the Discovery's GVW (and therefore max rear axle loading) is similar to a 90 with HD suspension so I would expect the springs to be similar in capacity.

Screw extractors are tapered so I would think it means the sharp end is 3mm and the top end 6mm but just a guess. Probably right for what you need though. Cheap set here http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18643/Drill-...Extractor%20Set

Yep - April I think? My first 200Tdi Discovery will be 18 years old this year and as far as I know still going strong, wonder how many 2005 model Discovery 3s there will be around in 2023

That's a good trick

An exhibition of saggy headlinings at Gaydon

I don't know but I would have thought that the fault code would have said open circuit or something which can be either a broken wire or a dud unit. Probably the most common SRS fault is the rotary coupler in the steering wheel, that shows up as an open circuit (the tape inside the cassette breaks I think) and does need a new part. I certainly wouldn't criticise the tech for plugging it in to the computer first because that's what I would do, but sometimes the obvious possibility isn't the only one as you have just found out! Been there done that, replaced most of the ignition system on a V8 Discovery before finding out the problem was simple if very well hidden!

I use this one mostly http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html

Is that the crash of stones hitting glass I hear?

I've never tried fitting a second hand one but Ally is right about the learning bit ^^^ it doesn't "just work" as soon as you plug it in. Water ingress into the fuse box is a common problem and sometimes causes all sorts of damage - the thing is prone to holding the central locking circuit engaged and blowing most of the solenoids in the door locks for one thing, which means new door locks all round ££££

You will also need to get it programmed on a diagnostic computer, and I believe to do that you need a code (something like 18 digits) that comes with new keys which you probably won't get with a second hand key.

I always fit my Defender VHFs under the dash next to where the handbrake is, doesn't get in the way and is easily visible/usable. Mic hook on the front of the dash means for a quick "yes/no" you can key the mic and speak from the seat without taking it off the hook.

I don't know whether you "could" but I do know you "shouldn't"! As to why they are cheap, in a word, yes Either the seller "liberated" them or bought them and then found they wouldn't fit anything apart from a Hummer. We've had a BFG MT sitting in a corner at work for the last ten years as it was shipped wrong with one of our orders and turned out to be a 33x12.50R16.5 and they don't fit anything else I have ever seen! If they were only for low speed off road use you MIGHT get away with it (I know somebody running a set of 15.3" tractor tyres on 15" white 8 spokes though they don't seat properly and there is a horrible wobble on them) but there is always the risk of blowout and they should not be used on a road under any circumstances as you will get absolutely crucified by the police and the insurance companies if anything happened.

"Custom made" = "We f***ed up big time on the design and won't be making another like this"

No they won't if they are 16.5 inch. I read somewhere once that the US Army deliberately specified the Hummer with 16.5 inch rims to prevent slippage in their tyre stocks which might also explain why these are on Ebay Do not fit a 16.5 inch tyre onto a 16 inch rim as it will probably blow onto the bead and then go bang when you don't want it to! If you can find a set of 16.5 inch rims for a Land Rover you will be fine, but the words hens teeth and rocking horse poo spring to mind...