BogMonster

Duly PM'd - thanks - didn't realise it was somebody on here

Just spotted this while looking at something else http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-90-110-De...11.c0.m14.l1318 Anybody tried one? Seems like a good idea as I have always felt that the Defender needed an extra speed on the heater, somewhere between "bugger all hot air" and "can't hear yourself think". Or does anybody know what size resistor you need and where to put it

Probably an ABS wheel speed sensor but you need a diagnostic computer to be sure.

ACE is supposed to "unlock" off road but I don't know what triggers that whether it is low range or the vehicle detects the driver swearing at the complete lack of suspension travel

Once you have more than 20 posts you can advertise it on here in the Classifieds forum but not before that Other than that folks in the UK would be better placed to advise.

IIRC the "peak charge long" is normally oil in the injector harness but can be the ECU, change the harness first as its a tenth of the price!

Yes that is correct the centre diff would be spinning all the time. If the difference is small then it will be OK, and it should be if all tyres are the same size though having said that, some "same size" tyres vary considerably between different manufacturers, sit a Michelin XS 7.50R16 sand tyre next to an Avon Rangemaster of the "same" size and the XS is much much taller, for one example! Metric tyres are usually nearer to each other. I would plan on changing the other two tyres to be honest, as it will make everything else better as well i.e. handling/braking if all the tyres are the same.

I'd stick with what you took off if it were mine.

I assume the new tyres are the same size as the old ones i.e. 235/70R16 or whatever? If so then I don't think the small difference between a new and a part worn tyre would be significant. Fitting tyres that are actually a different size on the vehicle is definitely not recommended apart from perhaps short distance as an emergency spare. The effect is that one or more of the diffs are spinning all the time which they are not designed to do. How much is the difference when you measure it?

As Tony said, they are all rated to 3500kg. Whether you would want to tow 3500kg with a 90 in any situation where you might need to stop in a hurry, is perhaps another matter

Yes if you are fitting seatbelts there is a lot of metalwork under the vehicle (on the factory belts anyway, not sure about aftermarket ones) which the belts bolt through to and which (I think) bolts to the chassis. If you buy all the stuff from Land Rover it costs £500+! The seats just bolt through the floor.

Could you take the commercial discussions to PM please chaps! Thank you.

Somebody I know here reckons the BM ones are better because they are fully greasable but in fairness that is probably more of an issue here where the things are coated in half an inch of sh** for six months of the year.

Military front bumper (has a centre towing point) and an alloy steering guard?

Me too

Try this http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/tyre-details.aspx?id=35 225/65r17 - bit over an inch taller than std 195/80r15 but might still fit?

General do an AT2 but only 265/65R17 or 265/70R17 which probably won't fit likewise the BFG is also only a 265 according to 4Site's site

It is what Castrol recommended when we gave them the specs and said "what should we use" so I guess it is OK! It meets the ACEA specs given in the manual for Td5s. Yes we have seen antifreeze double in price and had much the same thoughts!

Harsh but probably fair

Mixture of badly maintained concrete/tarmac, and lots of high speed gravel. To put that into context a guy I know who had a D2 a few years ago had shredded a set of normally quite hard wearing Michelin XPCs in 8000 miles... I don't know for sure about the construction I am just going on what the tyres "feel like" when off the rim, the AT2s seem to have a very tough sidewall and are b*ggers to change! Also if you have two tyres side by side, not mounted on a rim, and give them the "shove test" (push down on the centre of the tread with your hand and see how much the carcass deforms) the AT2s seem some of the strongest in this test and at least as strong as the BFGs. It is not very scientific but is usually proven right in the performance of the tyres after a year or two i.e. the ones that do badly are usually not up to much for puncture resistance, tyre wear etc etc. I am running the AT2s on my Ranger (1500kg unladen wt) at about 21psi and they seem happy at that, though not recommended for motorway speeds!

Jizer is also good and smells better than Gunk

My little Maypole auto charger has a "trickle charge" mode which holds the battery at about 12.85v according to my multimeter. It was less than £20.

Wish they did that for down here Somewhere around 24000 out of my last set of BFG AT's on the Discovery I don't think there would be much to choose between the two ATs in terms of economy as the pattern is very similar - possibly the stiffer carcass of the AT2 might give a slight advantage, not really sure. I know my V8 does about 15mpg on BFGs and the Ranger does 29mpg on AT2s but that is hardly a fair comparison

Windscreens are certainly supposed to be laminated - I have seen one which hit a goose at about 50mph (a big goose!) and though it was half in to the cabin with the sheer force of the impact, it didn't break up and the middle layer held it all together though there was a bit of glass in the cab! Damage to windscreens is a fact of life here with gravel roads, and while side and rear windows go pop and dump lots of little pieces into the cabin, which isn't nice, the front windscreens don't do it and we change dozens if not hundreds at work in a year. My Ranger windscreen has got a crack from side to side at the bottom and right up to the top corner and is in no danger of going pop. I guess some of the cheap non genuine screens are not up to scratch! New Defender seals do not present a problem, some lubrication (Fairy liquid or tyre bead lube) and a length of strimmer cord to go around the seal to pull it in and it doesn't take long.

At the very least you would need to swap the input shaft as well, and probably get into fun with bearings and oil leaks and and and... Have fun